Building a car and winning but not being called a cheater.

Crash Enburn said:
and 'sand' the treads -- although there is no need due to projections, but it will help lighten the wheel a tad.

That is what I read on here about the wheel surface. The only mold mark that I can see is on the double step of the outer hub. I decided to leave it alone though because I didn't think I could remove it without making it worse. Now that I have some of John's wheels I may play around with the stock ones.
 
So here is another question from what was published for this year's Scout Race district rules:

Wheels And Axles
14. Hubcaps, stickers and wheel covers are prohibited.
15. Wheel bearings, washers, or bushings are prohibited.
16. Car shall not ride on any type of springs. Cars must be freewheeling with no starting device or other propulsion.
17. Wheels shall have “BSA” visible on the sides. Wheels must be official wheels from original kit or parts kit.

Regarding #15, if a friction plate (e.g. a drawer slide guide) was ran down the entire length of both sides of the car, would that be considered a "washer"? It would something very easy for the kid to do, especially since it is adhesive backed.
 
I would say, "No, it's not." However, it could very easily be argued that it is — the only real purpose for adding a drawer slide guide would be to reduce friction on the wheels, which is the point of the rule. You should definitely be able to argue its allowance this year, but if the inspector/chairman doesn't like it, expect a rule change next year.

For a scout race, I would doubt it's necessary.
 
That is what I am debating to myself with our district rules as well. A lot of the stick on body covers have the same effect. They reduce friction at least better then bare wood. Even using a standard body cover and only applying it around the axle holes would likely draw scrutiny. I think with the stick on ones you could get away with it if you use it like a body cover that you only applied to the sides. That at least is what I would claim that it is.
 
If you have the Sally Hansen teflon tuff I think that would be just as slippery as the stick on drawer slide as long as you polished it up really good. If you want something easy for the scout to put in use monokote sticky back trim. I read on here though that the SH performs better.
 
My nephew won his last District this year, 4 in a row using the sticky back monokote ran down the entire length of the sides. I think it's the best choice for scouts, but I think you could use the drawer slide with out any problem.

Craig
 
Eliminator Racing said:
My nephew won his last District this year, 4 in a row using the sticky back monokote ran down the entire length of the sides. I think it's the best choice for scouts, but I think you could use the drawer slide with out any problem
That is what I do on my grandson's cars. I have a bunch of GK's, and they have never lost. Also, the MonoKote (sticky) comes in many colors. Good stuff
 
OPARENNEN said:
Eliminator Racing said:
My nephew won his last District this year, 4 in a row using the sticky back monokote ran down the entire length of the sides. I think it's the best choice for scouts, but I think you could use the drawer slide with out any problem
That is what I do on my grandson's cars. I have a bunch of GK's, and they have never lost. Also, the MonoKote (sticky) comes in many colors. Good stuff

Where can you get it? Can you just buy a thin strip of it like tape? We're working on my boys car.
 
You should be able to find it at a hobby store that sells RC planes and cars. Its original purpose is for covering model planes.