Building BASX car, what am I missing?

Apr 5, 2016
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My thoughts so far.

Sugar pine block from DD4H
I made my own silver bullet to drill it on.
I'm drilling the 3 degree cant rear holes 5/8 from back of block and 1/8 up from bottom. I'm going with a 5" wheel base. Dominat front wheel will be on the right side of the Car straight, bent axle for steering . It also will be 1/8 up from the bottom. NDFW will be 3/16 from bottom.
I also plan to make this a ladder style car. (Using 5Kids format)
Should I still undercut the DFW side of the car 1/16"?

I bought the BASX wheels from DD4H and I got the 92 axles as well. I got the new wheel bore polish kit and axle polishing kit. (I've done a lot of research on how to polish them both)

I'm rocking tungsten cube weights and I made my own black delrin washers that I plan on counter boring the block and installing.

My first car doesn't have to break records... I just want to make a good showing.

What am I missing?
 
Tuning board and a track to tune on..... Tuning board first though... then a track!

Sounds like you've got a good start. Regarding the 1/16" undercut, depends on the wheel hub length.
 
GravityX said:
Tuning board and a track to tune on..... Tuning board first though... then a track!

Sounds like you've got a good start. Regarding the 1/16" undercut, depends on the wheel hub length.

I'm going to Home Depot soon for a shelf board. I've read that this works well. I've got a invite from another board member to use his track. Super awesome guy.

I have a really nice gaming PC I'm thinking of selling to purchase a decent test track. A new track and decent timer is around $800 or so.

How long should the wheel hub be?
Thanks!
 
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Kinser Racing said:
And, degree of axle bend.

You guys run the bend where it barely fits into the wheel?
I think I've seen older post where you and DD4H said this. I'm limited to 10 degrees for BASX, correct?
Thank you,
 
jatofau1 said:
Going to need some tungsten putty or some type of small weights to max out you car weight.

I have some left over from my son's scout car. Thanks for reminding me, I've got to fish it out of his prep box and buy him some more next year.
I've got scales as well to get the weight close. Too bad it only measures in half grams...
 
I agree with Gravity....a track is key. You have all the right parts, but IMHO optimizing them can only be done on a test track . I was in the same boat , I decided I needed a track to get to the next level, I also needed to clean my basement to fit a track. I ultimately ended up with a clean basement, and enough money from selling forgotten items in my basement to pay for a new 42' Best Track.....win win./images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
Mazakdad said:
Should I still undercut the DFW side of the car 1/16"?

I like to polish the axles I'm going to use, bend the front axle, relax the axle holes in the body, then take the wheels I'm going to run (unprepped is ok) and trial fit them to the car. Leave the washers loose, don't glue them yet. Add some weight, set the steer and then give it a slow roll on either the track if you have one or a strip of wood (or aluminum since you obviously have access to the cool tools!) that's 1/4" thick X 1 5/8" wide. Look to see if the rears are centered over the guide. Then you can measure either how much to shave off the body or how thick of a washer you need to center it. I would do this before you cut in the washer up front but be sure to account for how much the washer will move when you cut it in. Then blow the car apart, cut in your washers and polish them up. ( I polish them after I glue them in because CA glue fumes kill the polish job.)
 
bracketracer said:
I like to polish the axles I'm going to use, bend the front axle, relax the axle holes in the body, then take the wheels I'm going to run (unprepped is ok) and trial fit them to the car. Leave the washers loose, don't glue them yet. Add some weight, set the steer and then give it a slow roll on either the track if you have one or a strip of wood (or aluminum since you obviously have access to the cool tools!) that's 1/4" thick X 1 5/8" wide. Look to see if the rears are centered over the guide. Then you can measure either how much to shave off the body or how thick of a washer you need to center it. I would do this before you cut in the washer up front but be sure to account for how much the washer will move when you cut it in. Then blow the car apart, cut in your washers and polish them up. ( I polish them after I glue them in because CA glue fumes kill the polish job.)

Thank you for this. I'll give this method a shot. I may have to make a test track part to check alignment on my first few cars. I have dug pretty deep in this board and I saw that best track will ship you a section on track for around $20 or so. This would be easier than machining one out. (we are busy at work, no time for government jobs). I'm starting the build today my Jig came in the mail. (thanks Hurricrane!)

Momentum Racing said:
I agree with Gravity....a track is key. You have all the right parts, but IMHO optimizing them can only be done on a test track . I was in the same boat , I decided I needed a track to get to the next level, I also needed to clean my basement to fit a track. I ultimately ended up with a clean basement, and enough money from selling forgotten items in my basement to pay for a new 42' Best Track.....win win./images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

I could sell the GTX 980TI graphics card out of my gaming PC and have enough for a decent test track. I guess I have to drop one hobby to pay for the next. I'm not sure a 42' best track would fit in my garage. I have to put it on a angle or go for a 35' I'll have to do my homework on total length for sure.
 
BulldogRacing said:
I have a feeling your first car is going to be very fast, can't wait to see it run. My advice, sell the gaming stuff and dive in all out brother!

I hope so man! My main concern is not to hit another car when my wheel goes flying off. Ha ha
 
I've drilled D2 tool steel, titanium, inconel and many other strange and exotic metals. But when I was drilling my car body today and the drill walked... I exploded right there.
I need to buy a knee mill.

Thank goodness for the other side.
 
Mazakdad said:
I've drilled D2 tool steel, titanium, inconel and many other strange and exotic metals. But when I was drilling my car body today and the drill walked... I exploded right there. I need to buy a knee mill. Thank goodness for the other side.

You have drilled a lot of materials that were never alive. Even dead wood has a mind of it's own sometimes! lol

I drill my cars with a knee mill, sometimes they just don't come out right no matter how careful you are. Be prepared to toss a few.
 
bracketracer said:
You have drilled a lot of materials that were never alive. Even dead wood has a mind of it's own sometimes! lol

Stephen I got a good chuckle out this... a nice way to start the day!

rofl
rofl
rofl