CA glue

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This is one of my very favorite model making tricks:

If one were to add baking soda to CA glue in layers. Allowing each layer of baking soda to be fully soaked with CA glue, when it dries it will have the consistency of ABS plastic.

One has to go in stages when filling deep voids to be sure the baking soda gets soaked.

If you have a hole drilled into wood that is 3/8" but you wanted it to be 1/8" and threaded;

You could put tape over the one side of the hole and put a layer of baking soda about .06" deep into the hole. Throw in some CA glue and wait a minute. The repeat until hole is filled. You can then re drill the hole, AND EVEN TAP IT!

The ABS-like material will hold the threads!
 
Yeah. It is handy in all sorts of situations. It basically acts as a thickener for the CA glue.

So anytime you really wanna join two materials and there is a gap, or you wanna create a fillet/ gusset/ radius on the joint it will work great.

Hell, One could probably build an entire car out of it but I would do it in a well ventilated area. lol

It is about as tough as acrylic when mixed right.
 
Do you find a certain brand or type of CA works better that others. Just curious cause the idea sounds so neat I want to go screw something up on purpose to try it. LOL
 
For smooth finishes to joints, I usually mix talcum powder (baby powder, etc) with CA glue and when it cures you can sand it smooth for a clean finish. It may even make the wood/plastic smell better depending on which scented-talc you use.

smile
 
IAE Racing said:
Do you find a certain brand or type of CA works better that others. Just curious cause the idea sounds so neat I want to go screw something up on purpose to try it. LOL

I can't tell the difference between brands. Some dry quicker but they all seem to be made with the same stuff. Only the price changes. I like the Star Bond brand because it is way cheaper than Zappa Gap, or Bob Smith.

Baby powder eh? Thanks. Cool tip.
 
I've used the baking soda and CA trick many times over the years for repairing plastic parts that have broken off door panels or trim panels on cars. Sure beats the cost of buying a new parts and saves the customer some money too.
 
High Density PolyEthylene will not stick to crazy glue.

This is what most plastic cutting boards are made from.

Polypropylene is good too. A lot of those clear bins are made from that.

I picked a cutting board up at the dollar store for $5.

(The dollar store is in name only here).

I use it as a gluing surface so that the parts will not stick to the flat surface they are sitting on.

When I get a little heavy handed with the glue I use a scrap of HDPE to push some of the glue around. This allows me to move the glue without the spreader to effect the glue. I guess that moisture "kicks" the glue. Since the HDPE is so nonporous it doesn't start to cure it. Anything that dries on the surface scrapes off pretty easy with a blade. Sometimes I will purposely stick the parts to the cutting board knowing that afterwards they come off with a quick whack.
Teflon also works but the cutting board is too easy.
 
Laserman, GravityX, & Maglev,
These are great ideas.
Is there a specific vescosity of CA glue that you use when mixing it with baking soda & talc?
There are so many choices, it's hard to choose even for usual use.
Thanks
 
laserman said:
IAE Racing said:
Do you find a certain brand or type of CA works better that others. Just curious cause the idea sounds so neat I want to go screw something up on purpose to try it. LOL

I can't tell the difference between brands. Some dry quicker but they all seem to be made with the same stuff. Only the price changes. I like the Star Bond brand because it is way cheaper than Zappa Gap, or Bob Smith.

Baby powder eh? Thanks. Cool tip.

CA comes in both Gel and very liquid. And the liquid comes in different drying times.
 
Maglev said:
For smooth finishes to joints, I usually mix talcum powder (baby powder, etc) with CA glue and when it cures you can sand it smooth for a clean finish. It may even make the wood/plastic smell better depending on which scented-talc you use.

smile
Hey Maglev,

Working all night to finish a model a couple days ago I needed some CA and baking soda.

In a rush and I couldn't find the baking soda. The baby powder was staring me in the face.

I grabbed it and gave it a whirl. It worked even better than the soda I think.

Just like you said, a smoother finish and it made the model smell good too!

Thanks,
 
Ok. The guy at the store told me he doesn't stock too much of the large bottles of ZapaGap CA glue because it goes bad. I was like" yeah right, you sell it way quicker than that".

Anyway, I started buying the Starbond brand by the liter.
I think it is going bad.

Typically I spill some on myself while using it.
It is much easier to remove from my skin than Zappqgap lately.
I can't remember if it was always this way. The lesson is to only buy what you need before it goes bad. Like groceries!

Or perhaps there are more differences in CA glue than I thought.
 
I have some info on baking soda and CA. It works for awhile then it cracks and requires more CA and backing soda. Vibration is an enemy of this setup. All the backing soda is doing is kicking the CA. (making it set faster)

Replacement for above is Micro balloon's, which can be found at local hobby shop or on-line.

Yes baking soda works but, it's hard as concrete and sands the same.

Micro balloons can be mixed with epoxy used as a filler. Epoxy and saw dust works way better than baking soda.

I hope this helps
 
Speaking of CA glue. One of the buildings up where I used to work had a guy on swing shift that would go to the toilet and go to sleep every night. Somebody really didn't like that and put CA glue all over the seat before he got in there. They had to call emergency and take the seat off and take the guy to the hospital to surgically remove it. Ouch!
 
Kinser Racing said:
Speaking of CA glue. One of the buildings up where I used to work had a guy on swing shift that would go to the toilet and go to sleep every night. Somebody really didn't like that and put CA glue all over the seat before he got in there. They had to call emergency and take the seat off and take the guy to the hospital to surgically remove it. Ouch!
eeek
That had to be painful!
 
PDHRacing said:
I have some info on baking soda and CA. It works for awhile then it cracks and requires more CA and backing soda. Vibration is an enemy of this setup. All the backing soda is doing is kicking the CA. (making it set faster)

Replacement for above is Micro balloon's, which can be found at local hobby shop or on-line.

Yes baking soda works but, it's hard as concrete and sands the same.

Micro balloons can be mixed with epoxy used as a filler. Epoxy and saw dust works way better than baking soda.

I hope this helps

Hey PDH,

I have never heard of these micro balloons. Thanks!
If the baking soda is thoroughly soaked it should have the consistency of ABS.
I can see it crumbling with heavy vibrations over time but my thoughts are that it can handle this light load.

Only one way to know for sure though.

This looks interesting!
http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr1090.html