Cutting a thin body

[r2d2]

So I have purchased four blocks from dd4hire and have made two bodies that are drilled canted but want to make two more that are non canted for a Cubscout derby that the rules don't allow for chanting but it's not well enforced.

It took me a lot of elbow grease to cut the blocks down and sand to get them properly thin.

My tools include hand saws, dremel with tons of attachments, and a cheap scroll saw, cheap chop saw,
Belt sander, cheap router, and cheap drill press.

My question is how I may be able to cut my next two blocks fairly cleanly so I don't have to spend hours and hours cleaning up the poor cuts/ uneven cuts/ jagged cuts I seem to always get when using the tools I have?

 

[r2d2]

So I have purchased four blocks from dd4hire and have made two bodies that are drilled canted but want to make two more that are non canted for a Cubscout derby that the rules don't allow for chanting but it's not well enforced.

It took me a lot of elbow grease to cut the blocks down and sand to get them properly thin.

My tools include hand saws, dremel with tons of attachments, and a cheap scroll saw, cheap chop saw,
Belt sander, cheap router, and cheap drill press.

My question is how I may be able to cut my next two blocks fairly cleanly so I don't have to spend hours and hours cleaning up the poor cuts/ uneven cuts/ jagged cuts I seem to always get when using the tools I have?

By the way, I have two kids who will be competing this year.

 

[SuperFastRacing]

Use the scroll saw to get close to your desired thickness line and then use the belt sander to get a little closer. After that I would put a piece of sand paper down on a flat surface and do the rest by hand.

 

[LightninBoy]

Many racers buy planks already cut down to 1/4 inch thick because cutting the blocks down is a major PIA if you don't have the right tools. I use 1/4 inch basswood planks.

 

[SuperFastRacing]

Many racers buy planks already cut down to 1/4 inch thick because cutting the blocks down is a major PIA if you don't have the right tools. I use 1/4 inch basswood planks.

That would have been step #1.

 

[r2d2]

Use the scroll saw to get close to your desired thickness line and then use the belt sander to get a little closer. After that I would put a piece of sand paper down on a flat surface and do the rest by hand.

I did as you suggested and seems to have worked perfect!! Well perfect in that it took like 30 minutes for my scroll saw to make the cut. I think my blade is too small to handle that size piece of wood but it worked. I had to keep the wood sandwiched between two other blocks to keep it squared. Once done, I used my belt sander then some coarse sand paper on flat wooden table. That's all I can get away with tonight without upsetting the wife. Will need to drill holes and begin cutting out weight pockets tomorrow before she gets home. Thanks again LBZRacing!! Your advice has been great!!!

 

[r2d2]

That would have been step #1.

I can see how that would save a ton of time.

 

[jatofau1]

I use a porter cable planer. It was on sale over Christmasn at Lowes. Man, the planer has saved me so much time. I use a table saw to get a relatively close cut that is roughly 6/16th. I than run it through the planner. I have blanks within ten minutes. I used to waste so many blocks trying to just get them flat and a good drill.

 

[GravityX]

Many racers buy planks already cut down to 1/4 inch thick because cutting the blocks down is a major PIA if you don't have the right tools. I use 1/4 inch basswood planks.

I couldn't agree more Tom. Having a nice clean square block to start with makes everything else come out so much nicer, especially when you need to drill the rear axle holes. If the block does not fit squarely into the drilling jig, axle holes will be off and can make for a tough time getting the correct alignment.

 

[SuperFastRacing]

I can see how that would save a ton of time.

I'm glad it worked out for you. I will agree with these Pro's, better tools equals a better outcome. I need to invest in a planer. When you start level and you finish level!

 

[BulldogRacing]

Drill your block before you shape it. I use a belt sander to shape my 5/16 starting block to a wedge. I draw a line in the center of the nose of my car and when I sand I make sure to stay even with that line, and use it for reference. Also cut your weight pockets before you shape it, and if you are going to router the car to lighten it, do this before you shape it. In other words shape it last.

 

[r2d2]

Drill your block before you shape it. I use a belt sander to shape my 5/16 starting block to a wedge. I draw a line in the center of the nose of my car and when I sand I make sure to stay even with that line, and use it for reference. Also cut your weight pockets before you shape it, and if you are going to router the car to lighten it, do this before you shape it. In other words shape it last.

I will do that. I've watched your videos and have made my own first go with setting up a weight pocket jig for my router. It didn't come out perfect due to my router base not being a perfect square. It has a protrusion on one side. Not a big deal to cut the pockets with a dremel attachment- just time consuming.

This is a year of trying out a lot of new tactics. My first three years was spent purchasing all the tools they sell at hobby lobby and watching YouTube videos. Now I'm starting completely over with tools and tips that make my old stuff junk.

My biggest dilemma is the whole canting issue. I want my kids to have the best chances to have fast cars but since the current rules prohibit canting and demand all four wheels touching-I feel like I'm taking a gamble by not canting the wheels. Last year several cars passed inspection with canting that was noticeable from a distance. Then one scouts car was not allowed to pass because the chanting was extreme. This is why I'm building four cars. Two canted and two noncanted. But I'm still trying to talk the Packmaster into allowing canting.

 

[King Racing]

You could possibly experiment using a feeler gage between the body and the jig to reduce the canting.

 

[SuperFastRacing]

I would build both types of cars and bring them. If they are going to call out your car being chanted then they must call out everyone else's car as well. Most likely they will let all the cars pass and if they don't you will be prepared. With all the Premium Content Videos on how to prep and build your 4 wheel touch you should smoke them on an even playing field.
If your Cub Master doesn't let the chanting fly and you end up running a 4 wheel touch then ask for a car inspection at the end of the race and let him know you are going to do so (unless you win lol) to make sure the cars are all by the rules that they are enforcing. It will be up to you to speak up and make it happen. Good luck. I always follow the rules but have no problem pointing out the B.S..
LBZRacing

 

[r2d2]

Yes, I've got an excellent game pls to make a strong competitor as a four wheel and non canted car for both my kids and I have the time to make two additional cars that are canted - that will be the plan. At least I will be gaining a ton of extra experience this year. I will be Packmaster next year - so I will be able to change the rules then. By the sounds of it with some of the other dads and the number of cars trying to sneak by with rule violations, I think the pack will appreciate the change.

I would build both types of cars and bring them. If they are going to call out your car being chanted then they must call out everyone else's car as well. Most likely they will let all the cars pass and if they don't you will be prepared. With all the Premium Content Videos on how to prep and build your 4 wheel touch you should smoke them on an even playing field.
If your Cub Master doesn't let the chanting fly and you end up running a 4 wheel touch then ask for a car inspection at the end of the race and let him know you are going to do so (unless you win lol) to make sure the cars are all by the rules that they are enforcing. It will be up to you to speak up and make it happen. Good luck. I always follow the rules but have no problem pointing out the B.S..
LBZRacing

 

[TRE]

4 wheels touching and graphite only are 2 of the dumbest rules out there

 

[LightninBoy]

My biggest dilemma is the whole canting issue. I want my kids to have the best chances to have fast cars but since the current rules prohibit canting and demand all four wheels touching-I feel like I'm taking a gamble by not canting the wheels. Last year several cars passed inspection with canting that was noticeable from a distance. Then one scouts car was not allowed to pass because the chanting was extreme. This is why I'm building four cars. Two canted and two noncanted. But I'm still trying to talk the Packmaster into allowing canting.

Rules like this make my blood boil. No canting eh? So scouts are expected to insert the axles at a perfect 90 degree angle? Ridiculous.

 

[Mojo Racing]

Rules like this make my blood boil. No canting eh? So scouts are expected to insert the axles at a perfect 90 degree angle? Ridiculous.

I use that logic all of the time when I am arguing with rules committees around here...

I tell them... Lets bring in 10 blocks and have boys install wheels and axles... 7 out of 10 wont have all four touching.

 

[bracketracer]

Seems like it would be a better lesson to let the scouts raise a wheel and explain the physics of why it works? Any scout can do it and it costs nothing extra.

 

[LightninBoy]

Seems like it would be a better lesson to let the scouts raise a wheel and explain the physics of why it works? Any scout can do it and it costs nothing extra.

Exactly. And its actually difficult to ensure all 4 wheels touch - probably beyond the skill of the typical scout. That's why the 4 wheels touching rule is the dumbest rule in all of PWD.