Door Slammer?

[Quicktimederby]

So I've been looking at body for a new door slammer but before I buy one just wondering what the rule differences are going to be this year, and what type of body's can be used?

 

[DNA RACING]

i heard we are going to 1/10th scale......

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

That will be posted with the finished site.

 

[Guest]

I say pure stockers on the rear, skinny wheels up front!! It looks better, tunes easier,& more importantly..it is Faster!!

 

[OPARENNEN]

I say pure stockers on the rear, skinny wheels up front!! It looks better, tunes easier,& more importantly..it is Faster!!

I raced a truck in our once a year family league in what we call the outlaw truck class. Rules are fat wheels on the rear, razors on the front, and 7 oz weight. Only other rule is that it had to look like a truck, with upright cab and truck bed. It was great fun, There were 15 entrants, mine finished second. As quoted above, the fat wheels back, skinny in the front makes for a very good looking vehicle. If I knew how to post a picture, I would do so. Mine is really very good looking, fenders on the rear and all. So my recommendation is use the fat/skinny wheel rule on the new Door Slammers.

 

[Guest]

I will get one up here shortly, mine has a bearing wheel for the dom wheel, and the raised wheel as well!! Merry Christmas to all!!
Paul

 

[Guest]

Heres a look at what I was talkin bout!!

 

[Kinser Racing]

Let's go to Street Stock wheels. These cars start to get expensive if you have to purchase a model also. Street Stock wheels will make it challenging. /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif

 

[fired up]

I agree with Kinser... Street Stock wheels.

 

[Guest]

I will go with whatever, I just thought a change of pace would be cool. I also took into consideration the cost....and I have to say that I could build 4 of these for the cost of....lets say, what a MOTM Championship ps car would cost

...just pickin Champ!!!! I'm good for whatever is best for the league!!!!

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

I think a major factor for less interest in these cars is the cost. I did not like the change to lightened wheels last year. It does not matter to me but I will go with popular vote. Lets put up a poll...

 

[DNA RACING]

i may be in the minority here, but i will be running 2 fleets this year, the one i can scratch together from last years parts and the after tax time fleet that will be good to go.
so for me i vote the cheapest way.

 

[Quicktimederby]

You should poll the body choice's also.
Model only body's
Slot car body's
Whatever you can find that meet the rules.

 

[Guest]

Here are some of the factors I took into account when suggesting using a bearing wheel on the front of the car.
1. It is really necessary to use 1 bearing wheel.
2. Cost...is 1 bearing wheel really that much more expensive than the other choice?
3. MORE IMPORTANTLY... If we are not going to tape these cars up all the way around, which in my opinion we should not use tape for anything other than on the nose of the car, the cars go faster, but just to the point of being as fast as a slammer with a lenth stick and tape all over it. Does this make sense? To me, it is a much easier build, more cost effective and it makes the car look like a real Door Slammer. The car in the picture I posted, cost wise breaks down like this.
1. 2011 Challenger model by AMT- $18
2. Chassis is a 6 3/4in piece of trim from a 8ft piece I bought at Ace Hardware for $4
3. Rear whels/axles- pure stock wheels/91's $25(thats for 4 of each) so cut that down the middle and round up to $13
4. DOM wheel/axle, wheels were bought without bearings, but cut for bearings, plus the axles $65(for set of 3 wheels and 4 axles)so lets go high on the estimate of 1 wheel/bearing/axle $20, bearings were bought seperately for $7 and that was for 6 bearings. ****NOTE**** I am in no way suggesting that anyone not buy the whole wheel/bearing package from Daddio!!!! His stuff smokes!! Just suggesting the most cost effective way to build.
TOTAL COST: Around $70
Now that is an estimate on the high end, in reality when I ran the car to see if it was a viable idea, I was more impressed with the fact that removing all of the tape from around the body and replacing the front wheels with skinny ones, my times were about .008 faster, and not much tuning either, basicaly the car was almost double rail riding. This is merely just my thoughts on the topic at hand, but looking at the poll..I am alone on these ideas. Oh well, I'm a team player, if we all decide to run matchbox cars down the center groove, I'm in on that as well!! God bless, and Merry CHRISTmas to all!!!
Paul

 

[Guest]

OK, maybe not alone, just not in the masses

 

[OPARENNEN]

I say pure stockers on the rear, skinny wheels up front!! It looks better, tunes easier,& more importantly..it is Faster!!

I raced a truck in our once a year family league in what we call the outlaw truck class. Rules are fat wheels on the rear, razors on the front, and 7 oz weight. Only other rule is that it had to look like a truck, with upright cab and truck bed. It was great fun, There were 15 entrants, mine finished second. As quoted above, the fat wheels back, skinny in the front makes for a very good looking vehicle. If I knew how to post a picture, I would do so. Mine is really very good looking, fenders on the rear and all. So my recommendation is use the fat/skinny wheel rule on the new Door Slammers.

Here's my truck, notice that I was using DerbyWorx wheels with needles back when this event took place.

 

[OPARENNEN]

The winning Outlaw Truck looked very similar to this except that the nose, from the front window to the front was a slant, and the cab portion was made with tooth picks.
I will try to find a picture and post it later.

 

[Quicktimederby]

Looking at the street rod rules it state's the the car must be easy to identify. Do they have to be production car's or are race cars ok also?

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Define race car...

 

[DNA RACING]

something like this maybe??
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAWCC&P=W