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I dont think you'll get too much business here on this tool as Ian was the first one to design the tool, Pinewood Pro copied a version of it, then tried to sell it and then someone else copied it and is trying to sell it again.
It's pretty neat what you can do with 3D printing these days. Is there any flex in the structure?
Nice work. The hole setup is pretty specific. So the DFW hole is canted down but is it also toed in to get some steer? You said you didn't bend your DFW axle.
If you are making this without a solid unlimited axle option you really only need 3 bushings. The NDFW doesn't need a bushing. The DFW really doesn't need one either since it doesn't have an opposite wheel to match up with.
If you are making this without a solid unlimited axle option you really only need 3 bushings. The NDFW doesn't need a bushing. The DFW really doesn't need one either since it doesn't have an opposite wheel to match up with.
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I think it would be better if you just made it so one set of holes is straight, bending fdw axle
is super easy, and a better way to fine tune. Or at least make the raised hole with a nice bushing. THis way you can easily just turn the block around and drill both front holes straight.
Then by using a bent front axle the ndfw will automatically be lifted of track or higher. Or just
drill the ndfw with the 3deg cant and make sure it is up and out of way.
is super easy, and a better way to fine tune. Or at least make the raised hole with a nice bushing. THis way you can easily just turn the block around and drill both front holes straight.
Then by using a bent front axle the ndfw will automatically be lifted of track or higher. Or just
drill the ndfw with the 3deg cant and make sure it is up and out of way.
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I just bend mine in a vice with a screw driver......I have made cars with the steer in them like that and it does work. Only thing is sometimes things are a little off and you need some more steer so a few of my attempts even with 4" have a slight wiggle when racing other cars that I could not tune out, that being said some of my best cars have been 3" in 4' with bent front axle. I was the same as you when I started out thinking it was better and easier to not bend dfw axle, and I played around with the stuff off of Stan Pope's pages.....and it does work. I have just found that a bit of adjustability is better. But if you installed a bushing in the ndfw dfw pre-set steer side, I guess you could get the best of both worlds.
In other words you could choose to drill both fronts straight and or choose the preset steer,
as long as you rotated the block. Another very easy thing to do.
I don't use any axle benders etc...not needed really.
Could you send me a PM on the cost, or the approx cost?
In other words you could choose to drill both fronts straight and or choose the preset steer,
as long as you rotated the block. Another very easy thing to do.
I don't use any axle benders etc...not needed really.
Could you send me a PM on the cost, or the approx cost?
OCDerby, correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't #2 stainless steel unthreaded spacers (with an inner diameter of .09") work in place of the expensive bearings? The spacers are only around $2 each and would act as a guide and protect the plastic.
On a different note, I am having trouble understanding how this system, and the others like it compensate for the wood block not being square. The Silver bullet is square always and takes the irregularities of the wood block out of the equation..... is there a way to get "the best of both worlds" and make a jig like yours that does the same?
On a different note, I am having trouble understanding how this system, and the others like it compensate for the wood block not being square. The Silver bullet is square always and takes the irregularities of the wood block out of the equation..... is there a way to get "the best of both worlds" and make a jig like yours that does the same?
Thus system works for the same reason the silver bullet does. The jig is square and the guides are aligned. If the block is not square it doesn't matter, what matters is not letting the body shift between drilling both sides for the rear axles.
For the guides dedicated for the rear axles you need the bushings to hold the bit true. For the other holes your spacer idea would work to reduce cost. Your front holes don't need to be precisely matched.
For the guides dedicated for the rear axles you need the bushings to hold the bit true. For the other holes your spacer idea would work to reduce cost. Your front holes don't need to be precisely matched.
kickaxe said:
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Interesting. So. I imagined using a precision hand turned drill instead of a powered one for drilling to minimize damage. And based on OCD's reply I can now imagine how the wheels would be parallel and aligned even if the block is angled slightly one way or the other. Cool.
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Awww, it says you've disabled playback on other sites. You're not gonna make me visit Youtube, are you? /images/boards/smilies/wink.gif
(I am slightly lazy.)
(I am slightly lazy.)
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OCDerbyDad said:
Odd, it gave me a message that said it was disabled. Blame Chrome on Linux, I guess.
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