Drilling using the block

DJofSYN

Pinewood Ninja
Feb 13, 2017
42
8
8
50
Quick question. My race has all 4 wheels touching and I typically do 3 wheels with cant. My question is on the the 4th wheel (the front steering wheel) should it be a higher drill hole and then use a bent axle for the steer? This is what I usually do, I use a pro jig aND mark all 4 holes since I knowas they will all be equal. Then I switch to the block and drill 3 of them while it's clamped in place. On the 4th hole (since it's already marked) I unclamp it and just drill a straight hole. Amy I doing anything wrong?? Or does that seem right? I will be ordering GB tool soon but since I'm using the block at the moment I'm trying to find the most accurate way to use it for an all wheels race. Thank you in advance. I am also planning a youtube channel for my local races. I hope you guys will tune in.
 
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If your rules allow you to use bent axles then I would drill both front holes straight and bend both front axles. Set your steer on the DFW with the NDFW removed, then insert the NDFW with the nail turned towards the rear and bring it down slowly until the wheel rolls but does not change your steer.
 
If your rules allow you to use bent axles then I would drill both front holes straight and bend both front axles. Set your steer on the DFW with the NDFW removed, then insert the NDFW with the nail turned towards the rear and bring it down slowly until the wheel rolls but does not change your steer.

Yes the rules allow bent axles. So if I use this method should I just mark all the holes using the jig like I've been doing? The jig I use is the pro jig where you can mark all 4 holes while it's clamped. Then once I mark them I can switch over to the block and drill the rears with cant and then drill the fronts straight like you suggested. Sound good?
 
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This is great info, I am building a backup car with slots for wheelbase and 4 touching in case the main car doesnt pass inspection. And was wondering how to set the steering.
 
WARNING - Not a pro racer - WARNING

For me, setting steer would be based upon several factors (e.g. type of track, how aggressively you are weighted, stock vs SS axles, etc). I do not measure COM on any of my cars, but I'll assume the following: running on an aluminum track, stock BSA axles, and ~ 17 to 18 grams on the FDW. I would run somewhere around 6" of steer. Reasons are these: scout cars will notoriously bounce around on the track and you do not want to be affected, and the rear make shake anyway because of the thinner 88 BSA axles. Too much steer will not slow you down as much if the car gets the wiggles. If you were in a very competitive district/council like Northstar, I would be both more aggressive with the weighting and run less steer. I would also be allowed to use SS axles, which help tremendously. I have seen a number of people tune to 4" over 4' with BSA axles, without the opportunity to test the car with some interesting results. Maybe I'm overly conservative, but that is because I know its not Bracket racer and GravityX on each side of my car.
 
Hey B Regal, good to see you still on the forum. That is good advice, I went with 4 inches of steer in my first race last year and the rear end was loose, added more steer for the second race and straight as a bullet, will likely go with 6 inches on my cars this year.
 
WARNING - Not a pro racer - WARNING

For me, setting steer would be based upon several factors (e.g. type of track, how aggressively you are weighted, stock vs SS axles, etc). I do not measure COM on any of my cars, but I'll assume the following: running on an aluminum track, stock BSA axles, and ~ 17 to 18 grams on the FDW. I would run somewhere around 6" of steer. Reasons are these: scout cars will notoriously bounce around on the track and you do not want to be affected, and the rear make shake anyway because of the thinner 88 BSA axles. Too much steer will not slow you down as much if the car gets the wiggles. If you were in a very competitive district/council like Northstar, I would be both more aggressive with the weighting and run less steer. I would also be allowed to use SS axles, which help tremendously. I have seen a number of people tune to 4" over 4' with BSA axles, without the opportunity to test the car with some interesting results. Maybe I'm overly conservative, but that is because I know its not Bracket racer and GravityX on each side of my car.

Love the disclaimer B regal:) Luckily I have a track to test at my house. I drilled a new block with both front holes straight and I used bent axles on the advice from an earlier poster. It worked excellent. Tuned it to get rid of the rear end shakes and we had it running straight as an arrow. The car did excellent at the pack race. And I hate to spoil it, ok I won't. I'll post pics soon. But we did very well;) This forum has so much info that it's invaluable at times. I recommended the forum to at least 5 of the dads there. I didn't give up any info on the spot as it wouldn't have helped anyway (sensory overload) I told them just come to the forum and do the research and ask questions. I've spent countless hours watching videos and reading on here. If you want to win you have to do the work. That's how I see it anyway. I have much respect for all you pros and non pros. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
 
GX, since when is B_Regal not a pro racer?!?!

Dude, it even says "Pro Racer" under your avatar! Who u think u foolin'? LOL!

Thanks for the vote of confidence that I might be able to get a car down the track without too many wiggles though!