Feedback on MA Build.

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KTMracer

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Mar 25, 2015
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My son and I are building a car for the Mid-America Scout Oil class. Unfortunately we are getting a really late start. Our parts won't arrive until Friday and we need to have it shipped Monday. We've never built anything more than a graphite scout car for our pack race, so we're definitely novices. We've come up with a plan and I'm hoping some of you guys can check it over. I just don't want any last minute surprises. (Also, we have no idea what we're doing)

Parts list:
DD4H predrilled block
DD4H MA wheels prepped by DD4H.
DD4H 92 grooved axles prepped by DD4H.
Gee fenders
Wheel spacers
Delrin Washers
1/4" tungsten blocks
Tungsten putty
Duplicolor Primer, Paint, Clearcoat

Our plan:
1. Cut weight holes according to the tutorial on 5kids website.
2. Cut body according to this post by 5kids: http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1282386834&postcount=90
3. Glue Gee fenders on with CA. I plan on gluing them on an angle to match the wheels and filling in the gaps with Plastic Wood filler.
4. Sand, Primer, Paint, Decal, Clearcoat the body. My son is going to make a decal tonight, so hopefully it'll look nice enough to distract from our rushed paint job.
5. Check and clean the wheels and axles with a microbrush and microscope. Install the wheels and axles. (as far as I can tell the preprepped wheels and axles don't need anything done to them prior to installation)
6. Two drops of oil for each axle. (I ordered Johns DVD so hopefully I'll learn this process a little better)
7. Tune to 4" over 4'.

We're shooting for a COM of 1/2" in front of rear axle. I don't even know if that's possible without wheel weights, but I don't dare do any less because we don't have a track to test on.

Thoughts? Am I missing anything major? Especially anything I would have to order. MaxV is about 45 minutes from my house, but I believe they're gone on Saturdays. Thanks!!!!
 
With a shipping time that close, I would skip the paint, even lacquer won't be dry enough to ship IMHO. I tried that once. It'll be dry enough to handle but the foam of the shipping box will mark it up. I would either Sharpie it or use Monocoat trim sheets on it. No dry time there!

I hope you bought a Legend car carrier also? It needs to make it there in one piece to race!

Good Luck!
 
bracketracer said:
With a shipping time that close, I would skip the paint, even lacquer won't be dry enough to ship IMHO. I tried that once. It'll be dry enough to handle but the foam of the shipping box will mark it up. I would either Sharpie it or use Monocoat trim sheets on it. No dry time there!

I hope you bought a Legend car carrier also? It needs to make it there in one piece to race!

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Very spot on advise.
 
Sweet! Thanks everyone for the advice. I have some oil coming with my parts and I did have John bend an axle. I'll probably try out the monokote and if that doesn't work I'll move onto a sharpie. Is there any trick to monokote, or do I just follow the directions on the package. Also, can I do it with a regular clothes iron and hair dryer?
 
There are trim sheets of monotone that are sticky backed. Those work best for doing a body cover, especially when you are short on time.
 
I'll head down to the local hobbytown and grab some monokote tomorrow to practice with.

Although I must say that Bulldog's new car has me thinking about skipping monokote altogether and going straight to sharpie: http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1286867405&postcount=1 Plus my son can completely do a sharpie paint job. He wouldn't even need my help.
 
Although I must say that Bulldog's new car has me thinking about skipping monokote
Click to expand...

It's all kinser.
peace
It must be fast .
 
+1 on the self-stick monocote. You don't have time to learn the iron on process.
Other thing I would mention is that 4" in 4' of drift might be problematic if your entering the scout classes. In a league race you might be able to get by with it and a half inch COM but racing against scouts you may find yourself in between two wobblers that will upset your car. I'd probably go 5-5.5" and give up a couple .001's for the safety tradeoff. Your car, your call!
 
KTMracer said:
Sweet! Thanks everyone for the advice. I have some oil coming with my parts and I did have John bend an axle. I'll probably try out the monokote and if that doesn't work I'll move onto a sharpie. Is there any trick to monokote, or do I just follow the directions on the package. Also, can I do it with a regular clothes iron and hair dryer?
Click to expand...

Use Monokote Trim Sheets. They're self adhesive.
 
Here is my first practice car with the stick on monokote.







Definitely not the easiest stuff to work with. For some reason I thought it would shrink with a little heat and would clear up all the small wrinkles. Apparently I was wrong. Any advice? Do you guys use separate pieces for top, sides, and bottom?
 
Yes do the top separate from the sides. Having a flat bottom you could cover the bottom and fold it up the sides. Then take a razor and cut it along the top edge of the sides.

This is one I did like that:
 
+1 to what TRE said. You only need to cover the bottom if there are cavities in the body.

I'm curious as to why your front wheel is on backwards? I'm guessing it's the raised wheel but it looks canted.
 
B_Regal Racing said:
Looks like the rear wheels might touch the body. Use spacers if running reversed.
Click to expand...

Since the MA specific wheels still have the lettering on the sidewall, you may need a washer in addition to a spacer to get clearance from the body.
 
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