First attempt at a ladder chassis...
- Thread starter Gtdhw
- Start date
Do your rules force you to move the rear wheels forward and not 5/8 from the back? If you can you want that weight back along with the wheels. Nice wood work!
Thanks! This car will never be raced, so no rules, lol. The only reason that I stuck with a stock wheelbase, is that I want to try & build my first full length balsa fenders as well, and figured that this would be good test mule for that. Once I get a good handle on all of the basics of a fendered ladder car, I will build one that puts them all to use. Just testing my skills (or lack thereof) at this point, at each step, to see if I'm even remotely capable of building a car of this caliber.
I'm reminded of The Simpsons and Mattingly's sideburns...
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi_5lXIT5AY[/video]
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi_5lXIT5AY[/video]
I would leave a little more wood around the axles, in particular the rear. Alignment is the basis of a fast car. Just wondering if the wood will warp or split when the axles are inserted. I have also seen cases where monokote, when heated and shrunk, can warp / twist a body.
4g is pretty light, but if you build it and its fast, then its good.
4g is pretty light, but if you build it and its fast, then its good.
+1 from my experience, even quarter inch width around the axle area (1/8th in. radius) in a ladder design (using pine) still splits. And that's after relaxing with a junk axle. I reinforce the inner walls on either side with CA-glued 1/64 in. ply.
B_Regal Racing said:
Point taken.
Attempt #2....
I added some meat to the front of the car (from 3/8" to 1/2"), and added meat to both axle spars (from 1/8" to 5/16"). I also added some room (1/4") to the front rear weight pocket (because with the rear wheels not pushed back, I'm reading mixed opinions on the best way to split the weight added in the pockets). I had originally thought that 2 rows of 6 in both pockets would be the way to go (just like with 5/8" rear wheels), but now not sure.......
Attempt #2....
I added some meat to the front of the car (from 3/8" to 1/2"), and added meat to both axle spars (from 1/8" to 5/16"). I also added some room (1/4") to the front rear weight pocket (because with the rear wheels not pushed back, I'm reading mixed opinions on the best way to split the weight added in the pockets). I had originally thought that 2 rows of 6 in both pockets would be the way to go (just like with 5/8" rear wheels), but now not sure.......
Ok, so for now, I put the stock wheelbase on the back burner, and this is attempt #2. Front weight pocket is still made tight for 2 rows, but early testing showed that the "extra" weight will need to be in the next pocket forward to get a 15g DFW weight (12g if all weight stays in the rear pockets). This is just the mock-up stage, and the fenders will come back off to be paired and final shaped/sanded/rail clearance'd, but I'm having a blast (even if I'm not doing anything right! lol). Pine chassis, thinned basswood undercarriage, balsa fenders, & thinned balsa "hood". With virgin wheels/axles, the car comes in @ 24g. Hoping to get it down to 23g after shaping the fenders better. Weights should be coming in today....
For a second car, it is looking rely good. Much better than mine. My only comment is save the weight of the plywood coverings and go straight to vinyl or monokote. I would only use the wood to cover one side of the weight pocket, preferably the top. I use silver tape to hold the weights in and cover the bottom of the weight pocket only.
Thanks BRR. I thought about that, and do like the see-through look, but think I'll hold off on trying that (no experience with monokote at this point). I know it's not the fastest option, but the "car-guy" in me, is really digging the propped open "hood". Since this car will not be competing anywhere (and is pretty light at less than 1oz un-weighted), I'm going to keep the hood hinge-able (but also secured), so that the boys can see the inner workings of what otherwise looks like a plain thin piece of wood. It will also make for a pretty cool pwd display car as well IMO. Monokote will have to wait until next year...lol.
For my son's pack car this year we used a vinyl in lieu of paint for ease of getting a good finish. In retrospect we should have used it like adhesive monokote without the see through look. It would have been easier, but maybe a little fragile for a scout race car.
My son and I built out first ladder framed car this year. It wasn't cut quite as cleanly as yours though and we used 1/4" balsa & CA to infill some of the pockets for rigidity. We also used 1/32" basswood top sheet so in retrospect it was probably overbuilt. That being said with light weight chassis, fenders and good oil axle prep it beat the the field at our previously competitive pack race. It wasn't as competitive this year as my son's car never lost a heat, running .03-.07 faster than the other cars in the top ten.
It took 1st at district championships this year on a 42ft Bestrack, with a 3.034 fastest heat. It never lost a heat.
My son and I built out first ladder framed car this year. It wasn't cut quite as cleanly as yours though and we used 1/4" balsa & CA to infill some of the pockets for rigidity. We also used 1/32" basswood top sheet so in retrospect it was probably overbuilt. That being said with light weight chassis, fenders and good oil axle prep it beat the the field at our previously competitive pack race. It wasn't as competitive this year as my son's car never lost a heat, running .03-.07 faster than the other cars in the top ten.
It took 1st at district championships this year on a 42ft Bestrack, with a 3.034 fastest heat. It never lost a heat.
We use monokote, but not the transparent kind like Rocket (mostly because I have what I have). My son is able to do it without any problem. ranted it does not look the same as if I applied it, but it looks no worse than an average painted Scout car. Actually, it does look better. We also have used self-adhesive vinyl from a sign shop, which is very easy to work with. He also cut his own ladder frame, again, not with the precision of an adult, but still done well. Its a big beefier than the cars I race here, and it does stand up to scout handling. The monokote is very durable.
Nice job racing, never losing a heat....
Nice job racing, never losing a heat....
That is awesome BRR! I think any scout that can make his own ladder car is beyond talented! I will for sure be looking into the monokote/vinyl for my next build.
Got the 4.0oz pack all test fitted. Total weight is now at 134g (should fall 1 or 2 more after prepping wheels/axles and shaving/shaping the fenders), which will allow me to add a touch more weight, to try & get the rear-wheel-weight more evenly distributed (one "slightly" raised front wheel), before paint.
Got the 4.0oz pack all test fitted. Total weight is now at 134g (should fall 1 or 2 more after prepping wheels/axles and shaving/shaping the fenders), which will allow me to add a touch more weight, to try & get the rear-wheel-weight more evenly distributed (one "slightly" raised front wheel), before paint.
Dang brother, that looks so cool. Nice showcase of your skills! You got what it takes man, don't wait til next year, build one of those for box stock. That thing would compete for show stopper too!
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