^^^ Yes, the bend is down. Haha, I'm a little scared to go too far. I hear its not easy to bend back.
First attempt at rail runner.... I'm going to need a little guidance!
- Thread starter 92hatchattack
- Start date
Have you tried tuning yet? If you can get the car to steer as far as you want then that's all you really need. The first time I bend a BSA axle I used a flathead and a hammer. I didn't use a bending groove. It bent easier and farther then I thought and still fit easily in the wheel. I didnt even think about getting the wheel on when I first bent a 92x axle. I gave it a few taps and went to put a wheel on and went "Oh $#it". Scratched a nice groove in the bore.
I'm a while away from tunning still. Dont even have the weights glued in or color on the car yet. I want to wait for my son to come over so he can help stain the car and put the weights in and stuff. He needs to be involved. Unfortunatly it Looks like I wont get to tune the car till Thursday evening. With my luck I'll need more bend and ed up sraching the polished nail and everything will go to hell. LOL.
I did have to go ahead and put 12 cubes behind the axle in order to get my COM to 5/8 though.
Will staining the car have any neggative effects with the moisture?
I did have to go ahead and put 12 cubes behind the axle in order to get my COM to 5/8 though.
Will staining the car have any neggative effects with the moisture?
If you have 4 polished axles then you already have a backup. If I screw something up I use a piece from the raised wheel set. If I make it to the end of a build without screwing up I take the ndfw and axle out and swap in a spare junk set. Keep the polished one in a bag just in case on a future car.
^^^ Good plan.
Is there anything I can find localy that can replace the nail polish and be better than just rubbing graphite into the wood?
Is there anything I can find localy that can replace the nail polish and be better than just rubbing graphite into the wood?
I'd say to use the back of a spoon pressed hard against the axle hole area of the wood to harden and polish the wood right there. Then rub in the graphite. You'll be golden.
92hatchattack said:
This works as good as nail polish IMO and is quicker. All you need is CA glue (aka super glue) and sand paper. You can get the CA glue anywhere ... hardware store, hobby store, etc.
1. Put a junk axle in the DFW axle hole.
2. Apply a thin layer of Thin CA (super glue) around the axle hole. Treat an area slightly larger than the wheel hub.
3. Remove the junk axle. And wait for the CA to dry (about 30 seconds for thin CA).
4. Sand the CA smooth starting at about 200 grit and going up to 1000 grit+. This will create a very hard, glassy, smooth surface.
5. Apply graphite (for graphite lubed car) or your favorite bore wax (for oil lubed car).
Cool. Can the glue be too thin? I use Loctite brand super glue at work and it is really thin. Will that work fine?
92hatchattack said:
Thin loctite will work great.
I don't think it can be too thin in this application.
Thank you!
Another stupid question. In all of this I have run out of time and money to build a proper tuning board. What I do have is a 47" mirror though, which minus the 7 inches of the car gives me about 40 inches or travel to work with. Can anyone look at their tuning boards and tell me what I should tune for in 40 inches that would translate into 4" over 48"? I need to be better prepared next year. Lol.
Another stupid question. In all of this I have run out of time and money to build a proper tuning board. What I do have is a 47" mirror though, which minus the 7 inches of the car gives me about 40 inches or travel to work with. Can anyone look at their tuning boards and tell me what I should tune for in 40 inches that would translate into 4" over 48"? I need to be better prepared next year. Lol.
Cross multiple x/40 * 4/48 = 3 1/3". Being that the path is more of an ellipse then a straight line, the correct formula will be slightly different and over my head but I think this is in the ballpark. Shooting for a strong 3" is a good starting point. Could some other amount be slightly faster? Maybe. The only way to find that is to have a test track to tune your car on. The common 4"/48" is just a safe start point.
Question for 5 kids. I read your site a lot and I have a question about pictures of your weight pockets for tungsten cubes. Why do you cut such a large pocked in front of the rear axle. My body is thin, but not hollowed out. I have 12 cubes behind the axle and 10 right in front to hit 5.0 oz and that gives me a 5/8 COM. So I am wondering Why your pockets are so big. I'm sure there is something I am not understanding.
Because I leave my cars light and then I move tungsten putty around that area during tuning to get the fastest/most stable car....
Ahh ok. Thank you. I'm only gonna get one, maybe two runs down a track before the race so I don't expect to be able to do much besides a small fdw tweak. Weight placement tuning is out of my league right now.
So how much of an incline do I use when setting up my crappy mirror/tuning board? Blah. I'm starting to get nervous about this build and the race. Stupid little cars give me too much anxiety. Lol.
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