Ok. So not much then I guess. Maybe like an inch I'm guessing. I'll just play around with it tonight.
Thanks!
Thanks!
First attempt at rail runner.... I'm going to need a little guidance!
- Thread starter 92hatchattack
- Start date
I put 3 sets of adjustable riser clamps, like some use to adjust a test track's level on the straight section. The pair at the end section is only to adjust the side to side level, same with the two in the middle 4' mark, except they are set to raise the track about 1 inch at that point. The pair at the starting point are set both to check the side to side level, and raise the table about 2 inches.
I did this so I could take the test board to different BSA events, put it on a normal 8 foot table, and then quickly make sure the drift table was level all the way down. But my 2 inches at the starting point turns out to be about the same as 5kids BSA block.
Another thing that really helps! At the end of the table (8' mark), the wood there is 2 inches higher than the glass surface, and I covered it with a very soft foam. Thus when the car rolls to the end, it bounces back. If you have several cars for the same class, the car that bounces back the furthest, usually ends up to be the fastest on the test track. I have several UNLIMITEDS. Invariably, the car that bounces back the furthest (in my case) always turns out to have the fastest time on the test track, once the proper drift is set.
I did this so I could take the test board to different BSA events, put it on a normal 8 foot table, and then quickly make sure the drift table was level all the way down. But my 2 inches at the starting point turns out to be about the same as 5kids BSA block.
Another thing that really helps! At the end of the table (8' mark), the wood there is 2 inches higher than the glass surface, and I covered it with a very soft foam. Thus when the car rolls to the end, it bounces back. If you have several cars for the same class, the car that bounces back the furthest, usually ends up to be the fastest on the test track. I have several UNLIMITEDS. Invariably, the car that bounces back the furthest (in my case) always turns out to have the fastest time on the test track, once the proper drift is set.
Well, I think I've done about all I can. Its all together.I think I've got the steering thing down. Getting around 3" over my 40" I'm not sure theres much else I can do.
The car isnt quiet going down the mirror. The rear drivers side wheel sounds like is has a flat. I tried swaping axles and wheels thinking something might be out of round, but nothing seemed to help. Maybe weight placement or a poorly drilled axle hole? I dont know, but its too late to do anything about it now.
Wheel gaps? I dont have a gauge. I hear some people use a credit card, and other say go smaller than that. Any other house hold item that works as a good gap gauger? Also, where do you measure the gap for the FDW? It seems to differ a whole lot from top to bottom obviously.
Thank you all for all of your help!
The car isnt quiet going down the mirror. The rear drivers side wheel sounds like is has a flat. I tried swaping axles and wheels thinking something might be out of round, but nothing seemed to help. Maybe weight placement or a poorly drilled axle hole? I dont know, but its too late to do anything about it now.
Wheel gaps? I dont have a gauge. I hear some people use a credit card, and other say go smaller than that. Any other house hold item that works as a good gap gauger? Also, where do you measure the gap for the FDW? It seems to differ a whole lot from top to bottom obviously.
Thank you all for all of your help!
- Nov 24, 2011
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^^^ Wow, thats a lot tighter than I would have ever thought. You guys are a wealth of information. I really do appreciate the fact that so many people on this site share their knowledge to help others out. Its really great!
Since you have BSA stock axles try taking that wheel out and spin it. You can also leave it installed but hold the car upside down. Keep turning the axle slightly with every couple spins. You should hopefully find a spot where it spins more smooth then others. Mark the top of the axle and when you put it in your car have that mark pointing down. BSA axles are kind of egg shaped so it can make a difference how they're positioned even if they're straight.
Also make sure the wheel tread is cleaned off. Sometimes debris can get stuck on it. Also check your mirror for anything on there as well.
In the end dont lose any sleep over it. I am not sure how competitive your pack is but all the work you've done is going to give you a huge advantage over most. If you happen to find another scout that does go faster you may want to strike up a conversation with the parent because they're likely as derby crazy as you.
Also make sure the wheel tread is cleaned off. Sometimes debris can get stuck on it. Also check your mirror for anything on there as well.
In the end dont lose any sleep over it. I am not sure how competitive your pack is but all the work you've done is going to give you a huge advantage over most. If you happen to find another scout that does go faster you may want to strike up a conversation with the parent because they're likely as derby crazy as you.
^^^ Haha, if someone goes faster than us I am going to strike up a conversation about cheating because we've won 3 years in a row without ever rail running. This is by far the most aggresive setup we have ever run.
I am already dubbed a cheater for winning our age group 3 years in a row, even though I've always used official BSA parts. I'd be fairly impressed to see someone in our pack jump such leaps and bounds to have built a faster car than this one without cheating. I should have volunteered to run the inspection station! Haha!
I dont mind loosing, but I feel like we put in a lot of time and research this year compared to what most of the people in our pack do for a Derby race. I just hope it runs well.
I want to dominate this year and next hopefully, then once we age out, come back and run some building classes and share all the great things I have learned on this site!
I am already dubbed a cheater for winning our age group 3 years in a row, even though I've always used official BSA parts. I'd be fairly impressed to see someone in our pack jump such leaps and bounds to have built a faster car than this one without cheating. I should have volunteered to run the inspection station! Haha!
I dont mind loosing, but I feel like we put in a lot of time and research this year compared to what most of the people in our pack do for a Derby race. I just hope it runs well.
I want to dominate this year and next hopefully, then once we age out, come back and run some building classes and share all the great things I have learned on this site!
Here's a good question. Is it possible to rail run with 4 wheels touching the ground and how would you alter your setup to run like this?
We make ours so that the 4th wheel "barely" touches. Also make sure that if it does it steers the same as the DFW.
So rough, but still ok results from todays test runs.
Sent it down the track and the rear end was all over the place. Not good. Made small increase in steer. Second run, same thing. Made large increase in steer. Ran much more stable, but I knew I had put a huge amount of steel on it. Took a tiny amount off and ran the same on the 4th run. Unfortunatly that was the end of the run for the night. I knew my steer was still huge but there was nothing I could do.
Get it home on my test mirror and its steering like 7 inches over 40" test board. Oh well. That is that I guess. I'd assume that having a stable rear end and too much steer is better than a wobbly rear. But it sucks that I know it could be a bit faster. I'm not sure why it had so much wobble. I wonder if its because they never clean their track.
The silver lining is the car was still crossing the finish line first, and we had a half of a car length on the guy who I think is our biggest competition.
Wishing I had my own test track right now.
Sent it down the track and the rear end was all over the place. Not good. Made small increase in steer. Second run, same thing. Made large increase in steer. Ran much more stable, but I knew I had put a huge amount of steel on it. Took a tiny amount off and ran the same on the 4th run. Unfortunatly that was the end of the run for the night. I knew my steer was still huge but there was nothing I could do.
Get it home on my test mirror and its steering like 7 inches over 40" test board. Oh well. That is that I guess. I'd assume that having a stable rear end and too much steer is better than a wobbly rear. But it sucks that I know it could be a bit faster. I'm not sure why it had so much wobble. I wonder if its because they never clean their track.
The silver lining is the car was still crossing the finish line first, and we had a half of a car length on the guy who I think is our biggest competition.
Wishing I had my own test track right now.
So despite our wiggly rear end we still won every race of the day, and now havent lost a race in two years. Which of course, as scout racing goes, brought plenty of rumors of cheating and talk about how I built the entire car myself and my son didnt help. (not true of course) But thats how it goes I guess.
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all your help! Maybe next year we will pull out of the Derby and instead put on a workshop about how to at least build a half decent car. Everyone sees how fast we are, but I'd love for them to understand how hard even we would get trashed by some real pro builders like yourselves.
Can anyone give any feelback for why I had such a wiggly rear end?
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all your help! Maybe next year we will pull out of the Derby and instead put on a workshop about how to at least build a half decent car. Everyone sees how fast we are, but I'd love for them to understand how hard even we would get trashed by some real pro builders like yourselves.
Can anyone give any feelback for why I had such a wiggly rear end?
If you used the drill fixture, it was more than likely not enough steer or weight was to high.92hatchattack said:
Hatch, Congrats on your wins! Welcome to the target club. LOL I was doing a little catch up reading and saw your other thread about the #43 drill bit.
I use the old style Goatboy jig all the time. You probably noticed to dill your rears at 5/8", the back of the car will be flush with the jig when turned correctly. Seems like every BSA block I have done is a touch narrow so a piece of masking tape on each side of the wood is needed to the jig square and tight. One time I had to use two pieces on each side. If the jig wiggles you will get tow. I use a #44 for BSA axes. When drilling with a 44, It is imperative to hold the bit either towards the car top (adds cant) or car bottom (reduces cant) and do the same to both sides. Cannot go forward or back with the drill as this will add tow. Then do slow roll test as normal. I have used this method successfully drilling into the slots for two years now.
I use the old style Goatboy jig all the time. You probably noticed to dill your rears at 5/8", the back of the car will be flush with the jig when turned correctly. Seems like every BSA block I have done is a touch narrow so a piece of masking tape on each side of the wood is needed to the jig square and tight. One time I had to use two pieces on each side. If the jig wiggles you will get tow. I use a #44 for BSA axes. When drilling with a 44, It is imperative to hold the bit either towards the car top (adds cant) or car bottom (reduces cant) and do the same to both sides. Cannot go forward or back with the drill as this will add tow. Then do slow roll test as normal. I have used this method successfully drilling into the slots for two years now.
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