First Post Thank You and a couple questions

HAB

Pinewood Ninja
Feb 16, 2017
40
19
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Thank you to all who post here, what a great source of information! Only wished I had found this forum and DD4H before our pack race and before wasting time and money with out of date and/or bad info and vendors selling bad tools and advice. I got my first DD4H order in today, and I am sure there will be many more to come.

The amount of thought, time, and testing that you guys have put into figuring out the puzzle of building these cars is crazy and at the same time very intriguing!

Despite all the things we did wrong this year including over polishing the axles making them too narrow, using the hub tool and reaming out the tire hubs - we had excessive tire chatter, and the list goes on and on.......... He won first in his wolf den race, and placed 5th in the pack. Only .001 from 4th and .003 from 3rd. The car is a three wheel but has straight axles and straight axle holes both front and rear with a 1" COM and racing on a aluminum track (not sure of the manufacturer).

He gets to compete in the district race that is coming up soon. The district race rules say no construction after the pack races. I interpret that to mean no new car building, but tinkering with tires and axles would be OK?


Is it possible/practical to re-drill and change the two rear wheel holes from straight to a 3 degree cant?

Rules say that the tires can be re-positioned (slots don't have to be used) but the original 4 3/8" wheel base must be maintained. His current car design wont allow for the front wheels to be moved, but for next year is there any benefit to moving the front and rear axles rearward? I understand that the further back the rear wheels are the better, and lengthening the wheel base is better, but is the benefit of moving the rear tire placement counteracted by the front wheels moving rearward to maintain the original wheel base?

Finally, is the axle straightener from Pine Car a worthwhile tool for correcting slightly bent axles or does it cause more damage than it does good?

Thank you all again for the great information and insight given in these forums!
 
Thank you to all who post here, what a great source of information! Only wished I had found this forum and DD4H before our pack race and before wasting time and money with out of date and/or bad info and vendors selling bad tools and advice. I got my first DD4H order in today, and I am sure there will be many more to come.

The amount of thought, time, and testing that you guys have put into figuring out the puzzle of building these cars is crazy and at the same time very intriguing!

Despite all the things we did wrong this year including over polishing the axles making them too narrow, using the hub tool and reaming out the tire hubs - we had excessive tire chatter, and the list goes on and on.......... He won first in his wolf den race, and placed 5th in the pack. Only .001 from 4th and .003 from 3rd. The car is a three wheel but has straight axles and straight axle holes both front and rear with a 1" COM and racing on a aluminum track (not sure of the manufacturer).

He gets to compete in the district race that is coming up soon. The district race rules say no construction after the pack races. I interpret that to mean no new car building, but tinkering with tires and axles would be OK?


Is it possible/practical to re-drill and change the two rear wheel holes from straight to a 3 degree cant?

Rules say that the tires can be re-positioned (slots don't have to be used) but the original 4 3/8" wheel base must be maintained. His current car design wont allow for the front wheels to be moved, but for next year is there any benefit to moving the front and rear axles rearward? I understand that the further back the rear wheels are the better, and lengthening the wheel base is better, but is the benefit of moving the rear tire placement counteracted by the front wheels moving rearward to maintain the original wheel base?

Finally, is the axle straightener from Pine Car a worthwhile tool for correcting slightly bent axles or does it cause more damage than it does good?

Thank you all again for the great information and insight given in these forums!
Hi Hab. I'm new to the site too and my son just took first in his wolf den and was 1st place overall in the pack. We are also going to our the district or council race. From what I learned this year and after talking to a pro racer, canted wheels are better, less friction. My son's car is a rail rider rear wheels canted 2 1/2° and the dominant wheel is drilled straight but the axle is bent to 2 1/2° the lifted wheel is drilled straight some people prefer to cant it. It really makes a difference. I have in the past filled axle holes and redrilled them. Maybe not the best idea but I have successfully done it. Welcome fellow derby dad.
 
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You'll be able to redrill the rears. Fill the old holes with round toothpicks and glue, then drill from just above the original hole (otherwise the bit will be overly tempted to follow the original hole) with a #44 drill bit. ACE Hardware has 'em, or if you can wait for shipping, DerbyDad has better ones.

I used the axle straightening tool early in my family's PWD careers. It's mostly just a way to part yourself from some money. However... I now use it to align my Dremel to cut my K-House Grooves (tuning slots) in the heads of my axles. I also use it for bending my DF axle. Mark where on the axle you want to bend, insert into the axle straightener to that mark, then bend the axle using a piece of wood and a hammer. (I recommend against using a screwdriver for this as the screwdriver would leave a sharp edge on the outside of the bend, where it scores the bore.

It is definitely beneficial to move the wheels rearward — even with the stock wheelbase. Since the cars are gravity powered, you want the weight as far back and low as you can get it. If you don't move the rear wheels back, you run the risk of too much weight behind the rears, turning your car into a wheelie machine. You don't want that.

Congrats on getting into the district race! Good luck to you both!
 
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I used the axle straightening tool early in my family's PWD careers. It's mostly just a way to part yourself from some money. However... I now use it to align my Dremel to cut my K-House Grooves (tuning slots) in the heads of my axles.

Crash, I don't want to hijack this thread, but how do you use the axle straightener to align the Dremel for cutting the K-House slots??? A picture would be worth 1000 words ...or in my case maybe 100,000 words.


HAB, I too have had some success in using toothpicks to fill the holes before a re-drill. I use my micrometer to find the best fitting toothpicks (about 0.001 smaller than the hole) and then matched the taper to the end of my drill bit using sandpaper. I measured the depth of the hole and transferred this to my toothpick ( I wanted to be sure I got wood to the bottom of the hole). I then coated them with wood glue and pressed them into the correct depth. I waited a full 24 hours before attempting a re-drill as I wanted to make sure that the glue was completely dry.

I have not run the car yet, but the slow roll tests look quite positive.
 
I'm building cars right now. I'll take pics and post later (maybe tomorrow -- I'm the chairman and have to get my own cars built, and get to the church to get the track and everything setup).

If it weren't for the last minute, I'd never get anything done.
 
I'm building cars right now. I'll take pics and post later (maybe tomorrow -- I'm the chairman and have to get my own cars built, and get to the church to get the track and everything setup).

If it weren't for the last minute, I'd never get anything done.


Understood! ;)
 
I took a couple pics as I did my axles.

I insert my axles into the axle straightener (aka axle holding heavy block, aka ahhb):
0224172255_zps1x8diuwm.jpg


The seam of the ahhb helps me to line up the dremel's disk with the center of the axle head
0224172258_zps2bjo9xfi.jpg


Next, I mark where I'm going to bend my DFA, and insert it into the ahhb to that mark. I use a piece of wood hit with a hammer to bend the axle. Make sure the wood is hitting the axle up against the ahhb and not at the head. (I like to have the K-House Groove (the slot) pointing straight up and down)
{Yes, I faked this pic and used the wrong end of my block. }
0224172259_zps91ohtikj.jpg


Viola!
0224172300a_zpsccyxvtme.jpg
 
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