First Street Rod
- Thread starter BulldogRacing
- Start date
I spray with tinted Lacquer and finish with auto clear coat in a spray can by U-Pol. Thanks for the compliment.
- Nov 24, 2011
- 3,903
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Gravity, you're good man, it's a 64 Goat! Thanks for the props guys. I've gotta get the correct wheels on it and weight and tune. The build was really cool, this was a car my old man drove when he was younger, he sold it for $1,000. Dang, I would have loved to see it go. Tribute to my old man and best bud.
Sweet car, I love the "Old Goats" from one of the pictures the rear of the car look pretty low. Make sure it doesn't drag through the transition. Can't wait to see it on the track!
Quick time is right on, the rear drug in the transition, I spaced it up a little and it's good to go. Thanks Q.T I don't have a name yet, I've been naming my Street Stocks according to what attempt they are. WD-40 stands for water displacement attempt number 40. { I think} So maybe SR-01 for her name
Quick time is right on, the rear drug in the transition, I spaced it up a little and it's good to go. Thanks Q.T I don't have a name yet, I've been naming my Street Stocks according to what attempt they are. WD-40 stands for water displacement attempt number 40. { I think} So maybe SR-01 for her name
Sorry hit the post button twice, I don't know how to remove posts.
Sorry hit the post button twice, I don't know how to remove posts.
Awesome! It threw me for a bit. Thanks for letting me know.
The car looks great! Great job on the build.
The car looks great! Great job on the build.
BulldogRacing said:
Nice job, Bulldog!
You can use some plastic from product packaging to make side windows to clean up the aero that little bit more.
You can use some plastic from product packaging to make side windows to clean up the aero that little bit more.
I need to add some windows, thanks for the tip. What do you think about mono coat? Is that allowed? I think I read somewhere in the rules no mono coat on the body or something like that?
I found what I'm referring to. Does this mean no vinyl or mono coat for the side windows. Small windows came with the model but no large side windows. There is no large pieces I can cut to size. I can find something around but mono coat would be nice to use?
Tape can be used only to hold the body to the chassis and cover the bottom but not to create aero advantages.
I found what I'm referring to. Does this mean no vinyl or mono coat for the side windows. Small windows came with the model but no large side windows. There is no large pieces I can cut to size. I can find something around but mono coat would be nice to use?
Tape can be used only to hold the body to the chassis and cover the bottom but not to create aero advantages.
Lots of purchased items come in transparent molded plastic. it's stiff, almost 1/128th". Just cut a flat piece to size, and glue it in.
MonoKote is allowed, but better off with EconoKote that comes in strips and sticks once rear coating is removed.. But I wouldn't like it for side windows.
In looking at the last of your pictures, showing the bottom. As a quick ability to remove body from chassis. Shape and glue in the two side pieces. In each side piece, drill two concave indentations about 1/4 inch deep. Then on the chassis, insert a round 1/4" dowel, with rounded edges at each end. The dowel should stick out of the chassis about 1/4 inch, so they can fall into the concave indentations. The plastic bodies flex enough so that you can pull the sides apart a bit, and snap the body to the chassis.
If you measure your indentations and dowels exactly, you could really quickly change bodies if you find one that has better aerodynamics.
On both bodies and Chassis, remove as much weight as possible, allowing more weight to go to the rear. But you have to be careful on some setups where the body has a long rear behind the rear axles, that you don't put in weight such that the car does a "wheelie" at the tracks transition point.
MonoKote is allowed, but better off with EconoKote that comes in strips and sticks once rear coating is removed.. But I wouldn't like it for side windows.
In looking at the last of your pictures, showing the bottom. As a quick ability to remove body from chassis. Shape and glue in the two side pieces. In each side piece, drill two concave indentations about 1/4 inch deep. Then on the chassis, insert a round 1/4" dowel, with rounded edges at each end. The dowel should stick out of the chassis about 1/4 inch, so they can fall into the concave indentations. The plastic bodies flex enough so that you can pull the sides apart a bit, and snap the body to the chassis.
If you measure your indentations and dowels exactly, you could really quickly change bodies if you find one that has better aerodynamics.
On both bodies and Chassis, remove as much weight as possible, allowing more weight to go to the rear. But you have to be careful on some setups where the body has a long rear behind the rear axles, that you don't put in weight such that the car does a "wheelie" at the tracks transition point.
Thanks for the great tips Opa, I love the dowel Idea. I already have a dowel jig, I'm going to do this right away, thank you.
