We ran stock axles from the box, tapered head, 1/8" wide groove (just wide enough to take out the crimp marks on the shaft) sanded to 3000 grit then polished with jewelers polish. We ran oil also. Rear axles bent just enough in the ProAxle Press and Rail Ridertool to get the wheels to go to the head. In fact the bend was barely noticeable. We figured it meant less friction for the wheel against the head. It took about a foot on the kitchen table roll for the wheels to reach the head. Very tiny mark on rear body which indicated to me a slightly higher bend would be better.
Stock wheels that we checked with dial indicator and picked the 3 best ones which were no more than .002" out of round. When you check them you may find that the inner portion of the wheel is truer to the hub than the outside and vicea-versa. We used the truest outside edge wheel for the DFW and truest inside edge wheels for the rears. We prepped the wheels the same way you did and added red rocket to the inside hub face and the outside wheel face where the axle head makes contact.
Nail polish on the body with Red Rocket on it too.
We found all stock axles to be egg shaped where the wheel rides. We placed them in the car as if the egg were on it's side. This we thought meant less fore/aft play so our wheels wouldn't change toe as much.
Notched the body so the canted wheels wouldn't contact body.
DFW axle bent a lot. Unknown how much.
We first aligned the car on kitchen table with a perfectly straight axle in the straight drilled DFW position. We aligned it to go perfectly straight by only adjusting the rear axles. This made sure they had no toe in or out. Then put the bent axle in and set steer.
Not sure what kind of track. I asked but nobody knew and I didn't want to look too enthusiastic by searching for a tag on the track. It's a 4-lane aluminum, unknown length. Very nice piece. We ran 3.011 first heat then the next 3 heats were all under 3.00 but I don't have the exact numbers.
Didn't have fenders at the Pack race but had rear fenders for District and Council. We were much faster as the races continued. We reprepped for each event which I believe made the wheels even faster each time.
Stock wheels that we checked with dial indicator and picked the 3 best ones which were no more than .002" out of round. When you check them you may find that the inner portion of the wheel is truer to the hub than the outside and vicea-versa. We used the truest outside edge wheel for the DFW and truest inside edge wheels for the rears. We prepped the wheels the same way you did and added red rocket to the inside hub face and the outside wheel face where the axle head makes contact.
Nail polish on the body with Red Rocket on it too.
We found all stock axles to be egg shaped where the wheel rides. We placed them in the car as if the egg were on it's side. This we thought meant less fore/aft play so our wheels wouldn't change toe as much.
Notched the body so the canted wheels wouldn't contact body.
DFW axle bent a lot. Unknown how much.
We first aligned the car on kitchen table with a perfectly straight axle in the straight drilled DFW position. We aligned it to go perfectly straight by only adjusting the rear axles. This made sure they had no toe in or out. Then put the bent axle in and set steer.
Not sure what kind of track. I asked but nobody knew and I didn't want to look too enthusiastic by searching for a tag on the track. It's a 4-lane aluminum, unknown length. Very nice piece. We ran 3.011 first heat then the next 3 heats were all under 3.00 but I don't have the exact numbers.
Didn't have fenders at the Pack race but had rear fenders for District and Council. We were much faster as the races continued. We reprepped for each event which I believe made the wheels even faster each time.
