Goat Boy Bending Tool?

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

For those that have the GB bender, do you have any problems with the clamp mechanism?

I just bought one and it almost takes three hands or a pliers to clamp down an axle.

What happens is that while screwing down the clamp screw, the pin binds in the hole of the movable side of the clamp. The screw gets tight, but it is because it binds on the pin/dowel side of the clamping block. It does not clamp down on the axle unless I work the block down on the pin. It is almost like I need to hold the two halves together with a pliers before I try to tighten the clamping screw????

I hope this makes sense? I am wondering if I got one that the tolerance is too loose and it is allowing the block to cock on the pins and then bind?

Any advice would be very much appreciated!

 

[derbydentist]

I've had the same problem not sure what the answer is but I fiddle with it and retighten and I can get it to hold the axle down tight. I just make sure I can't move the axle and then bend.

 

[GravityX]

I'll need to look at the one I have, I have not experienced this concern.

 

[Mojo Racing]

Yes, mine has always bound up, but I realized that right away... just put pressure at the top of it when screwing the clamp screw down, and check before you bend the axle...

Realizing this and using the tool is better than a hammer and a screwdriver, any day.

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Yes, mine has always bound up, but I realized that right away... just put pressure at the top of it when screwing the clamp screw down, and check before you bend the axle...

Realizing this and using the tool is better than a hammer and a screwdriver, any day.

Ok thanks. After posting this, I was looking online and noticed that there is a couple different versions of the clamp screw. One has what appears to be a built in washer with a larger surface area on the contact point of the top of the block. I was wondering if that might help to alleviate some of the binding issue that I am seeing by dispersing the load out over the center of the axle more toward the pin side?

I may try just adding a washer to see if it helps?

I agree it is better than bending with the DW tool or a hammer and vise, but I guess I expected a little more from a $100. Tool?

 

[Mojo Racing]

yeah... the washer would probably help distribute the pressure more evenly across the top of the clamp... I might try that on mine too...

Great idea !

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

I'll need to look at the one I have, I have not experienced this concern.

Gravity,

Does your screw clamp have a "built in" washer where it contacts the clamping block? ( see my thoughts above about distributing the load/clamp force across the top of the clamp toward the pin side). If it does, that may answer our question-problem? Thanks!

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

yeah... the washer would probably help distribute the pressure more evenly across the top of the clamp... I might try that on mine too...

Great idea !

Just remember that a flat washer will not accomplish to the same degree what a built in washer on the clamp screw would. It may be enough, but the tension/clamping forces are not transmitted thru a separate washer to the same degree as a built in version. The fact that one is directly connected to the threaded portion and the other allows for some of that force/energy to be consumed in removing "slop" allows for a small difference. How tight the flat washer is around the threaded portion is what drives how effective a flat washer will be.

Also, if this was a direct vertical clamping force, the flat vs. a built in washer would be much less of an issue as nearly all energy would be directly down. In this situation. The clamp is trying to press down also, but it is not at a 90* to the vertical axis. There is side load being applied trying to push down the clamp bar around the pin at the other side of the bender. ...clear as mud?

 

[derbydentist]

Sure... What he said

 

[bracketracer]

Huh. I'll have to check mine as well. I don't remember having any trouble with the clamp action?

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I just got done using mine a few days ago. No problems...

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

BR and B Regal,

Can you both check to see if your tightening nut has a built in washer? I am trying to confirm a hypothesis that the problem some of us are experiencing may be related to having a different tightening nut????

Thanks!

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Just press down on the top over the pin while you are tightening it.

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Just press down on the top over the pin while you are tightening it.

John,

I have tried that and it still binds as I tighten the clamp screw. It seems like I have to "wiggle" the clamp down as I tighten it I order for it to clamp the axle.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Have you tried lubing the hole with the pin or polishing it out so it has a smoother action?

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Have you tried lubing the hole with the pin or polishing it out so it has a smoother action?

Yep .....

Tried lubing and did polish the top so there were no burs. I did not polish the entire pin or the inside of the hole. Actually, now you have me thinking ...I did not inspect the inside of the hole for a possible problem. I will grab my jeweler's loop and take a look.

 

[HurriCrane Racing]

I don't have much trouble with mine binding. I just slide the top plate down as far as it will go before tightening the thumb screw. Keep a little pressure on the pin side and it will clamp down with no problems.

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Yep .....

Tried lubing and did polish the top so there were no burs. I did not polish the entire pin or the inside of the hole. Actually, now you have me thinking ...I did not inspect the inside of the hole for a possible problem. I will grab my jeweler's loop and take a look.

Ok, I don't know if this will show or not, but there seems to be a "line" on the inside of the hole. Possibly from when it was anodized. I am wondering if that is what is giving me grief? (Looking at the hole on the right) Edit: on the top in what is shown here.

The picture does not show it real well ...there is a line/ridge inside the hole and below the ridge/line it is smooth. Above that line there is almost some scoring that is most likely left over from when the hole was drilled. The area above seems "raised" slightly almost like it has a 0.005" - 0.001" knurling.

Upon inspecting the pin with the loop. It appears to have no issues.

I think I will try to roll up some 1000 or 1500 grit paper and see if I can remove some if the raised area?

See attached

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

BINGO!!!!!!!!

John's questions sent me down the correct path and I found something that I had missed before.

We have a winner!!!!! I used some 1500 paper and lightly sanded the inside of the hole. I did NOT try to take out all of the ridges. Rather, I did what I would call "remove the bite" that the ridges had. I then used some Sailkote on the hole and the pin. It is like a completely different tool!

Just so others know, I did try lubing with oil before the sanding and it did not have any affect. Taking the edge off the ridges seems to have made a night/day difference

Hopefully this can help the others that were experiencing some of the same issue as me!

Good luck and please report back if this does/does not work for you.

Thanks again to John for sending me in the right direction!

 

[B_Regal Racing]

FWIW. I use it similar to Brian. I do hold down the clamp before tightening the thumb screw. I do this so i can orient the nail / nail head in the right direction. I like the slot to be up and down so I can roughly see how much steer I have set.