Going 4 Sub 3.0 by Wracing

derby freak

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Pro Racer
Nov 23, 2011
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We didn't want to lose this, it is a good information for new racers to start building on and it belongs to us so I got it and put it here. I revised it just a little and my revisions are marked in red. If anyone sees a mistake in my revisions please let me know.

Hopefully this thread will encourage you to come race.
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Remove some of the excuses. You might as well go all out.

First get the resources available:

The Silver Bullet

THEN:

Get Good axles - Ditch THE BSA axles

Get good wheels: Ditch the raw BSA wheels. Get the

For Example: DD4H's line of wheels (Rage Extremes)

Drill your holes with the Silver Bullet. Key to alignment

Quality Axles and Wheels are also key to alignment and raw BSA components are not going to make it sub 3.0 very easily...

Cant rears negative 2.5 using the supplied pin included with the Silver Bullet.

Bend DFW axle 3-4 degrees and use positive cant.

Adjust steer of DFW (Dominant Front Wheel)

Here are the steers for two Pure Stockers over 45"

Rear of car starts 45" FROM finish line.

CoalCar 3/8" COM
Steer 2 15/16"

ClearWater 7/8" COM
Steer 2 11/16"

COM. Go for 3/4 " This COM will go sub 3.0 no problem!!!

Use a tungsten DISC or Cubes. At least 3.5 ounces. More better. Keep it all near and around the rear axle. (Dont add weight to the front or middle of the car. Keep it all together.

Make a test car to get the COM right and then build the final car...

Use (Krytox for axle to wheelbore lubrication)

For example: DD4H's Oil Mix and it would be a good idea to buy the Oil Secrets Unlocked Video

No need to go over 3/8" in thickness or less than 1/4" in thickness of the body.

Gap wheels at 1/32 inch.

For front and rear axle heights these are posted on the forum...

5/32" on rears
4/32" on raised wheel
3/32" on DFW

Round down the front of car in front of the axle... to create a gentle sloped nose...

Dont copy coalcar!!! Keep the car a plank for better everything....

Better staging, better car...

No holes in car unless covered for wind reasons including bottom of car..

Narrow the front of the car 1/16" on the DFW side. Have fun and post lots of questions to the board.
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UPDATES:

Make sure your wheels are clean. In particular make sure there is no graphite on the tread surface of the rear wheels.

Keep your added weight low...

Meaning if you use cubes keep them in the body of the car and drill the axle holes half way up the car...

If you are using a disc. Drop the disc so that it is flush with the top of the car OR center the disc with regards to the axle. Do not leave it high.
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Great tips. Newby question here: Can you define positive and negative cant for me?

Thanks
 
As far as your cant question, positive cant is simply described as the top of the wheel will be laid out away from the body of the car and negative cant is refering to the top of the wheel laying in toward the body of the car.
 
[font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"]Could you please explain the steer for me. What does r[/font]ear of car starts 45" FROM finish line mean? I understand what COM (center of mass) is. but what is a CoalCar and a ClearWater, and what does Steer 2 15/16" and Steer 2 11/16" mean?
 
Calebs_dad said:
[font="arial, helvetica, sans-serif"]Could you please explain the steer for me. What does r[/font]ear of car starts 45" FROM finish line mean? I understand what COM (center of mass) is. but what is a CoalCar and a ClearWater, and what does Steer 2 15/16" and Steer 2 11/16" mean?

CoalCar and ClearWater are the names of the cars he's referring to. 2 15/16" and 2 11/16" is the distance the car turns after 45" of travel.
 
As a side note, there has been a chip set change in the timer (and a track change) and going sub 3 is much more difficult then it used to be. This will get you started but you may not achieve sub 3 with only the above guidelines.
 
Thanks for the clarification this is only our second year. Last year we finished first in pack and second at district. I think the problem we have is in tuning the car and we are trying to figure that out. We are in the process of building a tuning table for this year.
 
This would be great located in the FAQ building tips - I refer back to this frequently