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[deang]

We've won the Pack races two years in a row. District is always a disaster. We came in 23rd the first year and 8th last year. Last year I decided to get a good look at the winning car. Though our district rules state that the wheels cannot be modified, it was obvious that material had been removed from inside the wheels. Here is the rule:

"Wheels can not be any smaller than 1.170” diameter. Can not remove any significant amount of plastic - inside or outside of wheel. Only the official wheels supplied with the Grand Prix kit are acceptable. Car with modified wheels will be disqualified to run."

I think the rule is vague. It says no "significant" amout of plastic can be removed, which seems to infer that some can, but then the rule ends with "car with modified wheels will be disqualified to run."

When I asked about it, the response was that they applied pressure to the wheels (with finger and thumb), and since the wheels did not flex, they allowed the car to run.

Apparently we can run wheels with some plastic removed, as long they meet the 1.170" height requirement.

1) So, here is the first question: With this in mind, which is the best wheel to use?

The second question relates to wheel base. The rule states: "Wheel base can not exceed 4.75” (4-3/4 inches) Center to Center of axle."

2) Does the extended wheel base option from the store meet this requirement?

 

[Flamethrower]

wow that rule on wheels is really vague, they need to tighten that up. what is the proper amount of pressure they squeeze the wheel with to determine flex and who are these fingers attached to? what is the calibration process for those fingers?

I would say the extended wheel base in the store will NOT meet your 4.75" requirement, but you can specify a custom block to meet your rule set. choose Custom on the wheel base drop down box

 

[Quicktimederby]

If it were me I would run the street stock wheels.(rage extreme from dd4h) The reason why is it would suck to put all the time and effort in a car to be DQ'ed. With the proper bore prep and oil process you can out run a lightened wheel car no problem with these wheels. As for the wheel base, go as much as allowed. Do NOT use the provided slots!!! Make sure you drill your own holes. If you do not have the "block" for drilling then buy a predrilled one from DD4H I think they are like $15 and he'll drill to your rules. (20% sale right now too) You will be amazed at the speed you can pick up with a properly drilled pine.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

QT is right about the wheels. You never know when they will yank you. Rules left to interpretation are scary. I would also become proficient at using oil. It appears dry at race time and you will get a huge advantage over the graphite cars. I could also make you a custom set of wheels with "some" material removed from the inside but this is a risky move according to your rules. Drill your block right. Set the car up to be a rail runner. Use oil and very few will be able to beat you even with lightened wheels.

 

[deang]

We used two of your blocks last year (drilling was done by you). We built two different cars since the Pack uses an alloy track and District uses an old wood one (weight moved a bit forward supposedly works better on the wood tracks). If I'm wrong about this, please say so, I really don't want to deal with two cars this year if I don't have to. I use the 1" cylinders of tungsten.

Regarding lubricant, the rule states: "Dry Lubricant only. No Liquid Lubricant allowed." I guess that's another one open to interpretation. If the lubricant is dry at race time, it certainly can't be considered "liquid". /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

Can't lubricate once the heats begin -- doesn't oil have to be applied between heats to be consistently effective?

I'm getting ready to put together an order. We want to start on this thing as soon as the holiday madness ends.

 

[ZZ Racing]

You do not need to add oil between runs. If the right prep to the bores and axles is done you can go two or three months without much lose in times. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[DNA RACING]

oil should be good for a entire event, many of our racers have gotten 30+ runs or more without re applying fresh oil.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

We used two of your blocks last year (drilling was done by you). We built two different cars since the Pack uses an alloy track and District uses an old wood one (weight moved a bit forward supposedly works better on the wood tracks). If I'm wrong about this, please say so, I really don't want to deal with two cars this year if I don't have to. I use the 1" cylinders of tungsten.

Regarding lubricant, the rule states: "Dry Lubricant only. No Liquid Lubricant allowed." I guess that's another one open to interpretation. If the lubricant is dry at race time, it certainly can't be considered "liquid". /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

Can't lubricate once the heats begin -- doesn't oil have to be applied between heats to be consistently effective?

I'm getting ready to put together an order. We want to start on this thing as soon as the holiday madness ends.

I suppose you could try and build different cars for different types of tracks but I think one good car will do the job. Just set the steer to 3 to 4" and you should be fine. I drill my blocks different now and they are producing incredible results.

I will forever run oil. It is way cleaner and if done my way will get you 200+ runs. If you re add oil it will ruin the prep job so never add more oil unless you are going to pull apart and reprep.

 

[deang]

Can't remember -- is that 4" of drift at 6 feet?

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

8 feet.