How do you guys remove casting masks from axles?

The Eccentric said:
Hatch, I've used Testors Enamel- it is notorious for slow drying times. When they say recoat within 3 hours or after 48 hours they're not kidding. I've had many a coat wrinkle and I've had them still tacky after a week! If I recall correctly uv light will help cure faster and a warm, dry environment helps, no wind to blow dust on the tacky finish. My best looking paint jobs are enamel but they were the hardest. There is a lot of info online about this topic. Thin coats also help to fully cure.

Puma- yep, Rustoleum is a joke! It's got fish oil in it to penetrate the rust, had cars with oily splotches before. I use Dupli-Color now but I'm starting to like the idea of the Big Dogs sharpie method.

I switched to Testors or Model Master lacquer for that very reason. Dry enough to handle in less than 30 min. They sell a high gloss clear coat that I like also.
 
aww shoot. It was Model Master I was thinking of not Testors Enamel.

Go super thin on the coat. I would just get some Krylon. It is pretty much the only paint outta a can I use.

+1 to eccentric. I have had luck putting some paint that went too thick under a lightbulb to try to force dry it. Not sure if it was enamel though. Mighta been lacquer.
 
Is there any particular reason having paint thats not fully cured would be bad? Besides the obvious I guess. I cant see how it would hurt you in a race.
 
I see. While I'm at it is there any special treatment I should give to the block where the inner hub of the wheel can touch the block by the axle hole? I usually just tape off the area around it and press a whole bunch of graphite into the spot until its nice and coated and slick. Is there a better legal process?

Thanks guys, your the best!
 
My kids and I have taken to using lacquer paints. It dries amazingly quickly and hard. We paint the whole car, let it dry, then rub graphite right onto the paint around the hubs.

We've done it this way for the last couple years — resulting in 2x Pack and District Champion and 1st Place in AGP.
 
Nice! One other question. I read it is bad to have graphite on the tread of the wheels. Just wondering why? I would think the less possible frinction with anything would be better.
 
Imagine pushing a wheelbarrow through an obstacle course...Now imagine doing the same with a slick lube on the tire! You want them wheels to grip not slip.
 
Kinser Racing said:
92hatchattack said:
Nice! One other question. I read it is bad to have graphite on the tread of the wheels. Just wondering why? I would think the less possible frinction with anything would be better.

True for the rear wheels. You can put graphite on the outside of the DFW and the inside edge of the DFW.

See that Eccentric,

More sliption on the DFW.
 
Yeah, I caught that Laserman! Wonder what the big dogs do to slicken it up w/out using graphite.
 
^^^ cool. I have that! Which is suprising being that I am a 31 year old single father!

In other news I think my car is crap.. it steers right and its not even setup to be a rail runner. And all 4 are on the floor too which im not happy about. I tried guys, but i am not to sure about this one. Last years car in comparison seems to free roll a little better than this one. I hope that changes when the car is on an incline.

Well, I guess ya cant knock me for not trying. Im gonna hang around this board though.... maybe get me a silver bullet, and start practicing... And hopefully build a better car next year. Anyway, thank you all for all your help. You've all been great! Wish us luck!
 
Well testing was tonight. Watched all the kids run their cars 3-4-5 times... We ran my sons car once, posted 3mph faster that anyone else, and packed it back up in the box. Wish us luck that we didnt have a fluke run! A couple of people didnt show up so we are simply in cross our fingers mode!

Race is tomorrow.