how much positive cant in DFW?

Feb 19, 2013
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This is something I've not yet done in my builds, so I'm wondering how much positive cant should I put in the DFW hole?

I already use the silver bullet to drill negative cant on my rears, using the pin provided with the silver bullet which gives a set cant (not sure how many degrees). Is it ever worth playing with different degrees of cant?

Can I use the same pin when drilling a negative cant hole for the DFW?

While I'm at it, is there any benefit in drilling negative cant hole for the non-DFW? Today, I just drill that hole a bit higher, but I sometimes run into trouble with that hole causing the thickness of my body to be thicker than I'd like.

I'm never really sure which direction is negative and which is positive, so the above descriptions assume that negative cant means the axles point upward and positive cant means the axles point downward.

thanks for any help,

birddog
 
I drill my axle hole with no cant. Just straight. Others however might do it different.
 
Rears drilled on a neg cant. and frt's straight. You bend the frt axle to achieve positive cant, and the ability to adjust steer. As for how much bend in the frt axle, I like 5-7deg.
 
It's been an area of debate for some time. It started at 1.5 degrees, went to three degrees and now it's somewhere between 3-5 degrees. The more the cant the harder the wheel pulls into the body. It was originally thought that when the wheel hit the rail it would push it back out. By observation of many racers the wheel doesn't come out.

At one time I tried to drill the hole with the cant and the angle to steer. The problem was every car was a little different and to get max speed I had to still bend an axle. Now I drill the hole at 2.9 degrees and a steer of about 0.9 degrees and use a slight bent axle to get my fine tune. I know others don't like this method, but if I bend an axle to 4 degrees I have a difficult time getting the steer set. The severe bent axle severly changes the steer with such slight turn of the head. The slight bent axle gives me lattitude in its movement.
 
pony express said:
It was originally thought that when the wheel hit the rail it would push it back out. By observation of many racers the wheel doesn't come out.

Just out of curiosity who thought this? I was always aware that it didn't push back out. Your statement makes it sound like everyone thought it did. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
Thanks Scott. I sure am glad you're racing with us! /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

5KidsRacing said:
Not from here Chris, but we have quite a few of newcomers that have migrated from "other" boards and it has been said over there... I brought up the topic earlier in the year to straighten it out/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
The 2.956 car was drilled 3 degree rear and straight front with a 6.32 degree front axle bend. I repeat the 2.956 car...
blah
 
I believe he said somewhere on this board you can't trust anybody, not even your own blood. I didn't think that was literally his own blood. /images/boards/smilies/wink.gif

How do you measure to the .01°? Not that I'm as OCD as txchemist but curious.

Quicktimederby said:
You said that you wouldn't TELL!!!
AddEmoticons08013
bruce
blowup


DerbyDad4Hire said:
The 2.956 car was drilled 3 degree rear and straight front with a 6.32 degree front axle bend. I repeat the 2.956 car...
blah
 
How is the bent axle being measured? Is it measured while still in the bending tool and using a protractor? Just curious...

Rhetorical question: Is there a perfect angle...
 
I'm sure with all things derby, it's relative to any number of other variables. But the short answer would be the perfect angle is the one in which you get the fastest times for that build. Only found through testing.
GravityX said:
Rhetorical question: Is there a perfect angle...
 
pony express said:
It's been an area of debate for some time. It started at 1.5 degrees, went to three degrees and now it's somewhere between 3-5 degrees. The more the cant the harder the wheel pulls into the body. It was originally thought that when the wheel hit the rail it would push it back out. By observation of many racers the wheel doesn't come out.

At one time I tried to drill the hole with the cant and the angle to steer. The problem was every car was a little different and to get max speed I had to still bend an axle. Now I drill the hole at 2.9 degrees and a steer of about 0.9 degrees and use a slight bent axle to get my fine tune. I know others don't like this method, but if I bend an axle to 4 degrees I have a difficult time getting the steer set. The severe bent axle severly changes the steer with such slight turn of the head. The slight bent axle gives me lattitude in its movement.

Thanks for posting Pony. I struggle with getting the bend I'm looking for. You gave me some good ideas to test out.