How to approach this axle rule

[Matt Barga]

I'm trying to help out a buddy in the ST. Louis area who has an interesting 'axle' rule:

Axles and axle slots must remain 4-3/8th inches + or – 1/16th of an inch from center to center. Axle slots shall remain 1-3/4th inches wide to fit over the track rail. Bending of the axles so as to cause the wheels to ride on the inside or outside of the tread or to ride the rail is illegal. The full width of the tire tread surface of at least 3 tires must make contact with the track surface.

I plan on drilling holes 4 3/8 apart on a 1/4" body, and then using a hacksaw blade to create axle 'slots'. I plan to drill one of the front axles higher to keep it off the track. I've always done rail riders with canted rears, narrowed fronts, DFW with a big bend and tuned to 4" drift over 4'. How would you recommend approaching this rule? Should I still narrow the front and look for one axle with an ever so slight bend for DFW to drive towards the center? Any advice would be appreciated.

Matt

 

[Brian Stanley]

These are some frustrating rules to say the least. I doubt there will be a single car there that has at least three wheels where the whole tread is touching the track given the quality of the BSA wheels, axles etc.

You could drill the front hole at an angle (toe in) so it turns into the rail, 1-3 degrees would probably do it. You'll still want to narrow the front so the rear wheel doesn't drag along behind it. If you use an axle that is bent (even if it came that way) you'll open the car up for scrutiny, especially if it's fast (and I'm sure it will be).

 

[T-Bone Racing]

These are some frustrating rules to say the least. I doubt there will be a single car there that has at least three wheels where the whole tread is touching the track given the quality of the BSA wheels, axles etc.

You could drill the front hole at an angle (toe in) so it turns into the rail, 1-3 degrees would probably do it. You'll still want to narrow the front so the rear wheel doesn't drag along behind it. If you use an axle that is bent (even if it came that way) you'll open the car up for scrutiny, especially if it's fast (and I'm sure it will be).

Drilling it at an angle is probably the way to go, but if they’re scout axles, there should be a bit of bend. I’d just give it a few turns to find the right spot, that way, you’ll find some steer. I also agree with Turbo Sloth, narrowing your front is important!

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

I have a drill set up for these rules to drill steer in non canted.

 

[bracketracer]

If it says the axle slots must remain 1 3/4" wide, then I would say that you can't narrow the front at all. You can still run canted rears but you'll need to keep it down to 1-1 1/2 degrees to keep the tread flat.
Can you cut the car in half and shift the front portion over a 1/16"? If there's not a rule against using a guide pin or fin then use that to tighten up the front track width instead of the NDFW since it will be shifted over.

 

[Loud2ns]

Can you cut the car in half and shift the front portion over a 1/16"? If there's not a rule against using a guide pin or fin then use that to tighten up the front track width instead of the NDFW since it will be shifted over.

This is a good suggestion.

 

[Mojo Racing]

One of the cubs I coached a few years ago had that stupid rule. for the NDFW, we just stacked 1/64" plywood to get the width at the axle back to 1-3/4".

if you cut the spot off the DFW side, just glue that piece of wood back to the NDFW.

 

[Loud2ns]

I asked the race director about that same rule in one of our races(the width between wheels). He said as long as it fits on the track we're good. You could try that approach.