I need clarification on graphite prep

Razzy

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Apr 22, 2015
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I read in the forums that graphite runs best at 4 to 8 runs...why not before that..since graphite is fresh?

If i ran last year, why graphite it up again if the graphite is still good for more runs?

i read also that if the car is graphited before race, and that person makes to the finals, that they shouldnt graphite it up for the finals..is this true?

If So, would i just want to clean the wheels and call it done?

Im just trying to get an more in deaph answer.
 
Speaking for myself, I would add graphite most any time I had a chance. Before the race, add a couple puffs of graphite, and spin the wheels. Blow (by mouth) the excess off the body and wheel surface. Race.

My experience was the graphite was good for ~8 runs. In our pack and district races, once the cars were checked in, that was it. Not even a chance to add more between rounds. So whether it would be beneficial to do so, I'm unsure. Were I to have the opportunity, though, I would. YMMV.

Graphite doesn't have the longevity of oil. If it's been a year, add some.
 
I would agree with crash. Our 2015 District race was run on a new aluminum best track with new software. Instead of Random pics for racers they ran each car consecutively. So Racers 20 would race Lane 1, then lane 2, then lane 3, ect.. all the way to six with no more than a 20 second break between them. I was down there saying that's not the way this should be done and I was rudely told if I don't like then I should take over next year's event! I said yes of course!
So back on point. After that race we looked at the wheel bores and they were toasted, all melted except the non touching wheel!
So always load up with graphite in a 6+lane race that they run consecutive heats or any race they won't let you reapply between heats and finals. Storage plays a role to..Use good graphite and air tight bags in a cool place
Good luck.
 
Pinewoodguy said:
I would agree with crash. Our 2015 District race was run on a new aluminum best track with new software. Instead of Random pics for racers they ran each car consecutively. So Racers 20 would race Lane 1, then lane 2, then lane 3, ect.. all the way to six with no more than a 20 second break between them. I was down there saying that's not the way this should be done and I was rudely told if I don't like then I should take over next year's event! I said yes of course! So back on point. After that race we looked at the wheel bores and they were toasted, all melted except the non touching wheel! So always load up with graphite in a 6+lane race that they run consecutive heats or any race they won't let you reapply between heats and finals. Storage plays a role to..Use good graphite and air tight bags in a cool place Good luck.

So you're saying that running 6 straight times MELTED the wheel bores?

I'm sorry, but I find that hard to believe. Our District track runs you 6 times in a row, and we ran the same wheels 2 years straight, and the same wheels also ran 2 years straight on my daughter's Powderpuff car. Then the Powderpuff car ran the sibling division at the Cub race this is year, and was just as fast as it was last year. And they're still good to go right now.

If your prep is good, 6 runs shouldn't matter, no matter how close together the runs are.
 
I would have to agree, when tuning I will run a car back to back many times with no wheel bore damage, Did the car drastically slow down from first run to the last?
 
Ok... Let me clarify the wheel bores melting. There were inclusions / gouging in the center of the bore that looked like melted mold marks on imperfect factory wheels. Which to answer to your next though, No they were DD4H wheels.
And we ran them in the pack race 2 weeks prior. This happened to only the rears. It had no can't on the rears either.
As for speed? Yes after the 3rd race it slowed. Thankfully his first 3 runs were fast so he still won his first District race!

Kinser's question was to the purposes of the bag and cool places. The bag prevents humidity and other contaminants but needs to be stored in a cool place or will actually trap humidity which clumps graphite plus Water is weight! The same reason you cook your blocks? I have a plug in cooler for hot and cold which I use to remove all the water weight, the body is in it for 6 to 8 hrs. When we check in our car bodies are hot and in turn lighter. This a whole other thread topic. I believe I learned thsee tidbits of knowledge from this forum? I believe I just read about someone using a vacuum bag to seal bodys, wheels with graphite in them.
 
You're probably seeing the mold imperfections in the wheel bores. A few molds have them and if they are in the center and you're running grooved axles it's all good.
 
BulldogRacing said:
You're probably seeing the mold imperfections in the wheel bores. A few molds have them and if they are in the center and you're running grooved axles it's all good.

That's my guess, too.

Additionally: Graphite requires moisture to lube anything. So it doesn't "absorb" moisture and get heavier...but it needs moisture in the atmosphere to become a lubricant.
So storing it in a bag doesn't really help anything.

And nobody bakes their blocks. They just re-absorb water, anyway.
 
OH NO! Are you telling me the Pack could have saved all this money and bought a track instead????
wooddry.jpg
 
LMAO! love the kiln.
I know for a fact there were no inclusions in the bore. Plus John would not likely ship one wheel let alone two wheels that had imperfections.

Also baking the car before the race will lower the body(s) weight thus allowing you to add more weight at check in. As the car sits before the race it absorbs moisture and will be heavier at the time of the race.
 
Pinewoodguy said:
Also baking the car before the race will lower the body(s) weight thus allowing you to add more weight at check in. As the car sits before the race it absorbs moisture and will be heavier at the time of the race.

How many weeks are there between check in and when your kids race?