Last minute tuning, what to expect.
- Thread starter Eric
- Start date
Hey Eric....
The DFW has a positive cant... When you look from the rear of the car forward, your rears look like /------\ and you front looks like |------/. With a dominant front right wheel.
So this was bad. lol Our DFW is on the left side and no wheel on the right, just a guide pin. We got by with it this time! I'll add this to the checklist for our new car.
What would be wrong with negative camber vs. positive on the front, I really have no idea is the only reason for asking.
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Boy, that track is dirty! 
The inside rear edge of the wheel shows it. Clean those wheels before the next race, it may help a little. At least for the first pass anyway. 
The inside rear edge of the wheel shows it. Clean those wheels before the next race, it may help a little. At least for the first pass anyway.
His first race in his den and then the last race for the pack title where the exact same times. 5 min. before the start of the 8 heat overall pack race they let us regraphite and we wiped the wheels. The track was very dirty.Boy, that track is dirty!
It's nice when it all starts to make sense... the pinewood bug is only getting deeper under your skin.
So, I just bought a track today. I think we are officially addicted. LolIt's nice when it all starts to make sense... the pinewood bug is only getting deeper under your skin.
Uh oh.... You are deep in now, Eric !
Here is the next line...
My name is Eric... and I am a pinewood derby addict...
Ok, got the track set up and we made 6 runs with the boys car just to get a feel for times on this track vs our pack track. It is a couple hundredths slower. A few factors are causing this, we have a manual start gate and in the flat of the track it runs slightly up hill because of the way the timer was built into it.
We ran consistent times so I decided to make the adjustment to the DFW to change it from negative camber to positive. We picked up a hundredth of a second consitantly over six runs. Thanks for pointing this mistake out to me. We are getting ready to start on the new car for the district race this week. Should we stick with the long wheelbase at 5.5 inches or bring it back to 5 inches? I think we are going to stick with only running three wheels on the car also.
We ran consistent times so I decided to make the adjustment to the DFW to change it from negative camber to positive. We picked up a hundredth of a second consitantly over six runs. Thanks for pointing this mistake out to me. We are getting ready to start on the new car for the district race this week. Should we stick with the long wheelbase at 5.5 inches or bring it back to 5 inches? I think we are going to stick with only running three wheels on the car also.
Now you're cookin'!
One other quick question then I'll probably start a new thread for the new car. For the dominate front wheel, our old car's axle hole was drilled straight in, should we keep it straight or should we cant it also, and should we drill at the same height as the rears?
Thanks, Eric
Thanks, Eric
With the above description it's the right front wheel that is steering the car correct? So the left front wheel is touching the ground or no? I'm curious which wheel is hitting the rail in the description and which one is making it go towards the rail. Thank you for this
We are only running one front wheel on the left side. Right side has nothing but a guide pin. Problem was fixed awhile back see the new thread "We have a District Champion".
I should have read your quote a little better. Our car steer is from the left front wheel since it's the only front wheel. It would look like this
\------- Looking from the rear of the car forward. Hope that helps.
Eric
Right front is steering the car. Left front is NOT touching the track, typically. Right front is driving into the rail and touching the rail.
OK I understand the description now. But if my rules are all 4 wheels touching how can I use the rail runner technique?
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