G
I use mine to make or modify wheels, axles, washers, steer bushings, and weights.
I use a rebuilt Atlas 618. Taig and Sherline are popular.
I use a rebuilt Atlas 618. Taig and Sherline are popular.
Anyone got video or info on using a lathe for wheels? Really interested in learning more on how I can use a lathe for wheels.
Is there such a thing as a "lathe Pin" that has a gradual change in the OD of perhaps 5/1000ths of an inch. I have been using OD pins that are a constant OD, each pin being 1/1000" larger than the next. But I find it often difficult to stop the wheel from spinning on the pin while spinning on the lathe.
You lathe experts: How do you hold the wheel tightly during a lathe pass???
You lathe experts: How do you hold the wheel tightly during a lathe pass???
I've ruined so many wheels trying to cut my own wheels it makes me sick. I think that is part of my problem. The tighter I can get the wheel from any displacement the finer the cut looks. I've even tried putting the inside hub into a small chuck. That's my best cut so far. Nothing good enough to race with. Good enough for the NDFW. There must some art to it.
When I use the chuck method I can cut only one direction and get decent results.
When I use the chuck method I can cut only one direction and get decent results.
This is the only videos I have run across.
Please don't flame me for the link, just trying to answer BuckeyeRacing's question.
http://www.derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6338
Please don't flame me for the link, just trying to answer BuckeyeRacing's question.
http://www.derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6338
Take it for what it's worth, but here's another video:
DO NOT try this method. Wheel would be rendered illegal in most, if not all, races. Drilled in spoke area.
[video]http://youtu.be/JoIUGQeqcic[/video]
DO NOT try this method. Wheel would be rendered illegal in most, if not all, races. Drilled in spoke area.
[video]http://youtu.be/JoIUGQeqcic[/video]
I know people that can cut very good pro level wheels and none of them cut them like what is seen in those two videos.
see, no flames knotthed/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
see, no flames knotthed/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
Do all those side attachments come standard on a lathe or are they add on's? I know the concept but trying to figure out what tools/attachments are needed for ID and OD precision shaving is not easy.
G
Guest
Guest
ngyoung said:
Don't waste your money. Those little lathes turn at 2000 rpm. Way too fast to turn wheels. It does not have adjustable speed either.
5Kids,
Out of curiosity, how do you objectively quantify "Pro Level" wheels?
What is a bad wheel?
What is a good wheel?
What is an Amateur Level wheel?
FWIW, the second video may result in illegal wheels in most scout classes due to the drilled side wall. So the dog in the sidewall is not favored and a dead center would not be favored either.
I'm sure everyone that turns wheel has their own process and yes if you embark on the path, you can expect to chew up a bunch of them.
Out of curiosity, how do you objectively quantify "Pro Level" wheels?
What is a bad wheel?
What is a good wheel?
What is an Amateur Level wheel?
FWIW, the second video may result in illegal wheels in most scout classes due to the drilled side wall. So the dog in the sidewall is not favored and a dead center would not be favored either.
I'm sure everyone that turns wheel has their own process and yes if you embark on the path, you can expect to chew up a bunch of them.
I don't think I am being objective at all... my personal opinion is that those won't work at a level to get on the top of a league leader board.
Maybe some of the other guys that cut wheels here at the NPWDRL can chime in.... Is that how you guys cut your wheels? Maybe I am wrong. The second video is stupid.... I am not even discussing that one. The videos you linked show a tapered shorty pin on one side and the tail stock pushing the wheel up against the spoke face on the other... I don't see that as working too well. I think you have to index the entire bore, not just one end on a taper.... I think I have proven my method works, what has the author of these videos proven?
Maybe some of the other guys that cut wheels here at the NPWDRL can chime in.... Is that how you guys cut your wheels? Maybe I am wrong. The second video is stupid.... I am not even discussing that one. The videos you linked show a tapered shorty pin on one side and the tail stock pushing the wheel up against the spoke face on the other... I don't see that as working too well. I think you have to index the entire bore, not just one end on a taper.... I think I have proven my method works, what has the author of these videos proven?
G
Guest
Guest
5KidsRacing said:
I haven't cut many wheels lately, but the process is still the same. There is only one correct way to do it and those videos unfortunatley are not it. I am sure the guys that made those videos meant well and are hobbists not machinists. They can't be! Scott you are correct with everything you said.
G
Guest
Guest
"The second video is stupid.... I am not even discussing that one." - Agreed! but it does show turning a wheel and does provide a good lesson to the poster who asked about turning about what not to do.
"I think you have to index the entire bore, not just one end on a taper...." Agreed!
"I think I have proven my method works, what has the author of these videos proven?" Agreed! Did I miss your video link?
"what has the author of these videos proven?" Well for starters, I have never seen or handled or measured Stan's wheels, but I bet they are better (perhaps 2x) than most out of the box.........and that is my "subjective" personal opinion. I think it would be safe to say that his process could take a .006" runout wheel and reduce it to say .003" runout wheel.
I would now like to digress back to my original question;
"How do you objectively quantify "Pro Level" wheels?"
ob·jec·tive
əbˈjektiv/
adjective
[list type=decimal][*]
1.
(of a person or their judgment) not influenced by personal feelings or opinions in considering and representing facts.
[/list type=decimal]
How can I objectively determine if a wheel is "Pro Level"?
BSB thinks this is done by the results of the races. Are the wheels the number 1 reason for being at the top of the leader board? I don't know because I have not league raced as much as you guys. I do believe that wheel quality is one of many important pieces of the puzzle to the top of the leader board. Is it the single #1 reason? I doubt it.
I would love for the Pros or the people who turn their own wheels to tell us how to determine if our wheels are "Pro Level" before I put them on my car to race.
Let's skip answers related to buying wheels as that was not the posters question.
[list type=decimal][*]
[/list type=decimal]
"I think you have to index the entire bore, not just one end on a taper...." Agreed!
"I think I have proven my method works, what has the author of these videos proven?" Agreed! Did I miss your video link?
"what has the author of these videos proven?" Well for starters, I have never seen or handled or measured Stan's wheels, but I bet they are better (perhaps 2x) than most out of the box.........and that is my "subjective" personal opinion. I think it would be safe to say that his process could take a .006" runout wheel and reduce it to say .003" runout wheel.
I would now like to digress back to my original question;
"How do you objectively quantify "Pro Level" wheels?"
ob·jec·tive
əbˈjektiv/
adjective
[list type=decimal][*]
1.
(of a person or their judgment) not influenced by personal feelings or opinions in considering and representing facts.
[/list type=decimal]
How can I objectively determine if a wheel is "Pro Level"?
BSB thinks this is done by the results of the races. Are the wheels the number 1 reason for being at the top of the leader board? I don't know because I have not league raced as much as you guys. I do believe that wheel quality is one of many important pieces of the puzzle to the top of the leader board. Is it the single #1 reason? I doubt it.
I would love for the Pros or the people who turn their own wheels to tell us how to determine if our wheels are "Pro Level" before I put them on my car to race.
Let's skip answers related to buying wheels as that was not the posters question.
[list type=decimal][*]
[/list type=decimal]
My Lathe, might make the average Lathe owner, crack a smile/joke about it.
It's @ 4" tall x 24" long, it's made by "Toast-Master" Circa 1950 + something.
(It's mostly YELLOW/PLASTIC) It sits on my Kitchen table, and it is so freaking ACCURATE! It's spooky!
It's perfect for any Pinewood Derby application. I use it almost daily.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/toastmaster-jigsaw-mini-lathe-combo-i-got-auction-3692/
It's @ 4" tall x 24" long, it's made by "Toast-Master" Circa 1950 + something.
(It's mostly YELLOW/PLASTIC) It sits on my Kitchen table, and it is so freaking ACCURATE! It's spooky!
It's perfect for any Pinewood Derby application. I use it almost daily.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/toastmaster-jigsaw-mini-lathe-combo-i-got-auction-3692/
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