Migration

[BlewBYu]

Why is it necessary to have the wheels migrate out to the axle head when moving the car both forward and reverse? Of course I understand forward. What is the problem if the wheels migrate out forward but NOT backward? Is it indicative of a cant/ toe problem? What solutions are available if this happens?

 

[Crash Enburn]

Is it indicative of a cant/ toe problem? What solutions are available if this happens?

Exactly. If the wheels migrate both forward and back, that shows that your drill job is spot on. If the wheels migrate forward but not back, that would show a slight toe-out; and vice versa.

As to solutions... I'm still needing to work on that, too.

 

[TRE]

the solution is drill a new body

 

[Mojo Racing]

I was drilling a few weeks ago, and found I had forward migration, just fine, but only one wheel moved out on a couple of bodies... they are now kindling.

I might have to think about that next time though... although it may not be good in this league... They may be good to race against the cubs I help with their cars. I don't want to blow them out of the water with league cars, but I will have a car or two sitting around that they can race against, and set goals of beating.

 

[ngyoung]

If they migrate out only going forward you can still have toe out, which rolled in reverse will cause the wheels to migrate in. So even though they go out moving forward the rear wheels will fight against each other. One will end up being dominant and the other will have some slight friction from being pulled off the line it wants to travel.

 

[ngyoung]

Solutions can vary depending on how far along you are. If it is still just a plank flip the block just re-drill. If you have weight pockets cut already you can fill the holes. Some people have suggested round tooth picks and wood glue but if you have more blocks to work with it may be faster to just start with a new one. There is some increased risk of your drill bit walking when drilling into a filled hole. If you have an almost complete car, especially if it is a kid's car, that is probably your best option though.

 

[Vitamin K]

There is one more solution, but I won't say it, lest I inadvertently push the drama button. But if you look here, first paragraph regarding "no other way to fix a bad drill job", from DD4H himself.

I'm assuming this is in the context of "car is completely built and you realize your alignment is jacked up." /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[ngyoung]

Forgot to mention that if you are using stock BSA axles it may not be the drill job but the axle itself. Swap with a different one of twist it to see if the results change.

 

[3phase]

The Iceman has a technique for re-drilling, i'm not sure if he posted it or you have to pm him.

 

[Vitamin K]

I wonder if you drilled a larger hole (say 1/8") and filled it with an adhesive-coated dowel of the same size, would this correct problems with possible bit walking when re-drilling?

 

[NeedforSpeed]

"There is one more solution, but I won't say it, lest I inadvertently push the drama button."

HA! I saw what happened the last time you did that. I think that thread is still getting lit up!

 

[aircooled]

I use the dowel method and works fine. However, I take a 1/8 dowel and put it in a hand drill then sand it down to fit the hole. I then coat the dowel with epoxy put it in the hole and let it set up.

 

[bracketracer]

I always test with polished wheels and non-grooved polished axles also.

 

[Obsessedderbydad]

There is one more solution, but I won't say it, lest I inadvertently push the drama button. But if you look here, first paragraph regarding "no other way to fix a bad drill job", from DD4H himself.

I'm assuming this is in the context of "car is completely built and you realize your alignment is jacked up." /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

If it's a scout car, yes. If its a league car, throw it in the fire