txchemist said:OK Laserman- you have brought back some terrifying memories with that spider flick.
I had just watched it or something like it and then turned off the light and hopped into bed. Sometime about two in the morning, something I rolled over on woke me up. I was all groggy and put my hand down and searched for what had caused me to wake up. I grabbed a giant tarantula I thought based on the feel of a bunch of floppy legs and a large body . I screamed like a sorority girl.![]()
My wife jumped up and turned on the light, I got my Louisville slugger ready and she pulled back the covers to reveal- A giant ant the boys had put there for April fools.![]()
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B_Regal Racing said:I know its learning the hard way, but for whatever reason, I want to break 3 seconds on 40' Freedom Track (36 1/2' pin to finish) using the parts out of the BSA kit. For every wheel that is half-way worth anything, I ruin 15 with the shaver. Yeah, it was a good waste of money.
I know I can just buy the wheels from John, but I need to get to the point where I can say "been there, done that" and so, I look for new creative ways to financially support small internet companies. I came across this mini lathe on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-TURNING-SPEED-CNC-METAL-MINI-LATHE-DIY-TOOLS-PROFIT-SMALL-v-/251391260349?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a881636bd
It would be used to do nothing more than true the wheels and remove the step. What do you think? (and - I have been lurking around for maybe a year, following one from member from DT to here. Hello all; I was never much for introductions)
bracketracer said:B Regal,
Unless I am misreading the specs, it says it's capacity is 20mm stock. Unless you're planning on running some .866" diameter wheels, I think she's going to be a little too small. It also says the spindle speed is 20k. You would melt some wheels at that speed. I would pass if I were you.
EDIT: The manual says the spindle speed is 2k, not 20k like the auction shows.
laserman said:BTW TXderbydad,
Nice breakdown. Those are the conclusions I came to as well.
It seems worth it to go big and get a Sherline in my estimation.
The tooling and such will dwarf the cost of any machine at any rate.
laserman said:Thanks Scott,
Lightness of the wheel without decreasing the OD by much.
.
1reason said:laserman said:Thanks Scott,
Lightness of the wheel without decreasing the OD by much.
.
I'm using a razor to shave the outside diameter (to cut weight using a tool I bought on ebay) and to true the roundness. Is this a mistake? Is a "larger" wheel better and I should just take off weight from the inside?
1reason said:laserman said:Thanks Scott,
Lightness of the wheel without decreasing the OD by much.
.
I'm using a razor to shave the outside diameter (to cut weight using a tool I bought on ebay) and to true the roundness. Is this a mistake? Is a "larger" wheel better and I should just take off weight from the inside?
bracketracer said:1reason said:laserman said:Thanks Scott,
Lightness of the wheel without decreasing the OD by much.
.
I'm using a razor to shave the outside diameter (to cut weight using a tool I bought on ebay) and to true the roundness. Is this a mistake? Is a "larger" wheel better and I should just take off weight from the inside?
Some wheels out of the box check at .0005-.0007" of runout untouched. The vast majority are around .003-.005", but I have seen as much as .012". If you true the OD of a wheel that had that much runout without cleaning up the inside also it will make a heavy spot on the opposite side. If you don't have a way to check what you started with and what your finished product is, you may very well be hurting yourself with a tool like that. The $30 you probably spent on that tool could have bought you a nice set or two of wheels at derbydad4hire.com and you'd be set for scout racing. I totally understand a man's need to DIY, and I would never fault a man for buying a tool of any sort, but I wanted you to be aware of that tool's limitations.