Modded BestTrack release handle

bracketracer

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Mar 21, 2013
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I just bought a new track and I'm in the process of putting it together. I noticed that the release handle pivots on a bolt and nylon locknut arrangement with no bushing. The aluminum lever rides right on the bolt threads. Even with the locknut adjusted it's sloppy loose and it bothers me. I already had the parts here to do the Owen's Mod, so I thought I would see if I could help the pivot point.

I didn't want to mangle the original handle in case this didn't work out, so I picked up a piece of 3/16" x 1" 6061 bar stock, cut it to length, and drilled and reamed the pivot hole to .498". I could have used 1/8" thick bar stock, it would have worked fine but I needed 3/16" for another project so I just used what I had. I ordered two PTFE shoulder bushings from McMaster-Carr and installed them after I drilled the new lever for the solenoid linkage and return spring holes. All of the other holes are the original size and location, only the pivot hole is enlarged.

IMG_0468.jpg~original

Now for the pivot point. I could have used a shoulder bolt but that would leave a nut and the rest of the bolt on the track side of the bracket where it might interfere with a car so I decided to reuse the button head bolt that comes with the track and make a new shoulder nut instead. I took a piece of 1/2" stainless rod, turned it, and tapped it to 1/4-20. I cut an extra shoulder for a washer to give the bushing a bearing surface. I made the length .003" longer that the total thickness of the lever and both bushing flanges so now I can tighten the bolt and the lever moves smoothly with no slop.
IMG_0459.jpg~original
IMG_0461.jpg~original

And here it is with the Owen's Mod done and installed.

IMG_0474.jpg~original
 
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They are good people but I don't think they would find it necessary Joe. Since the vast majority of their tracks are used once or twice a year the original setup would hold up for years. I don't even think this mod would make the track more consistent since the gate switch is actuated by the gate itself. I just didn't like the slop.
 
LOL!

Now that you have a Best Track I have a feeling that you will be posting all sorts of these mods.

They should just put you on the payroll now fella.

Or at least Mcmaster Carr!
 
Hi Stephen,

How does this work with the remote starting switch?

Did you make your own?

Thanks,
Joe
 
Joe, I made my own timer and gate release using plans from www.miscjunk.org. You can operate the gate either from a box mounted near the start gate, or with a pendant remote, or from the laptop at the finish line. I used the same plans when I built my wood track and it's worked great for over a year so I did it again for the new track. I took a ton of pics of the assembly process I could post if anyone's interested in a DIY option.
 
bracketracer said:
Joe, I made my own timer and gate release using plans from www.miscjunk.org. You can operate the gate either from a box mounted near the start gate, or with a pendant remote, or from the laptop at the finish line. I used the same plans when I built my wood track and it's worked great for over a year so I did it again for the new track. I took a ton of pics of the assembly process I could post if anyone's interested in a DIY option.

I for one am very interested!
Hi Stephen,
Do you have a better link for the plans?

EDIT: forget it. I found it.
Photos are still appreciated.
EDIT: Aww man this is awesome!
Thanks,
Joe
 
Double Ds,
First thing, welcome to the forum!

I used this solenoid from Jameco. It had more travel than I needed for this application so I just mounted it closer to the lever to get the travel where I needed it. Mounted like it is, I'm only using about a half inch of travel.
 
Tom,
I just finished doing two more of these. I found a shoulder bolt that works better without having to make a shoulder nut from scratch. I'll get the number off the invoice when I get home.

EDIT:
Tom,
I used # 94035A307 shoulder bolt & # 90566A029 thin lock nut from Mcmaster along with a 10mm flat washer this time. I'm still using 3/16" bar stock for the handle which is a little thicker than the original handle. I cut a second shoulder into the head of the bolt to accept the washer and the bolt's original shoulder length is fine for this handle. I shortened the threaded end down so it's just flush with the thin locknut. This setup doesn't interfere with the cars, it's really no bigger than the original button head bolt. If you're using the original handle I bet you could use the same bolt I used, select a 3/8" flat washer that's thin enough, and skip cutting the second shoulder. You would just need to shorten the threaded end so it doesn't stick out in the racing lane. The flanges on the Teflon bushings are .060" thick each, so if you add .120" to your handle's thickness, less the bolt's shoulder length that would tell you what thickness washer you would need to find or make. Here's a few pics:
IMG_0813.jpg~original
IMG_0814.jpg~original
IMG_0816.jpg~original
IMG_0817.jpg~original
IMG_0818.jpg~original
 
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GravityX said:
That's some good work Stephen. No clearance issues with cars either, from what I can see.

Thanks Paul!
Yep, a 3 1/4" wide car would clear, wider than most PWD rules would allow. Street Rod rules allow up to 3 1/2", but that's the full width of the lane and that wouldn't clear the original button head bolt without putting the car tight to the RH rail.
 
OK, did the Owens mod on the start gate, FANTASTIC.

Did the Bracket Racer handle mod, FANTASTIC. no slop

Added adjustable suitcase closures on each side of each section of the track, FANTASTIC. I think this should be standard on every track.

I also ordered a few extra sets of the lift/leveling legs and put a set in the middle of every section. Probably not needed, but I think it does help.

Next mod is adding an additional piece of angle to the middle of each track section. I think this will just help hold the 3 lane together a little better.

I have a 3 lane best track, I think the first 3 mods are a MUST.

Thanks BR and Owens