More questions ... how much to bend the DFW axle

[derbydentist]

That answer is good enough for me TRE- I didn't want to go through all the extra effort! Ha

I was hoping you would chime in too BRR - any thoughts on this question from earlier in the thread -

Okay so I thought of another question because I am running the BSA axles out of the box the slop between the wheel and axle is greater. Does this change the amount of bend I need to put in my axle - or do racers generally still do somewhere between 5-9 degrees? I know it means I need to give my wheel some more space between my fender. I guess the guys that race in the class that requires all the box parts may be able to help me the best?.

 

[derbydentist]

How high off the track should the NDFW be? 1/16 or more? What advantage does it give you if said wheel is tight against the body and unable to rotate with and/or without fenders?

I'm not sure what mine is set up for on the height of the drilled hole NDFW I'll have to look at that and let you know- but I am interested in hearing what the pros say.

As for the wheel not spinning from what I understand is that if the wheel spins at all as its going down the track it could negate the benefits of having it raised off the track not sure of the physics of that. I think the fenders pressed up against it just makes it more aero and is a way to make sure the wheel doesn't rotate but if you don't have fenders you could glue it or just push in all the way

 

[Crash Enburn]

BSA slop and angle of bend: Just get the axle through the bore. You might need to change the amount of steer (less?) for ultimate speed. Without a track though, just go for the normal 4" in 4' and see what happens.

Height of NDFW: I drill the axle holes at the same height (can see through the body). The NDFW is raised by the amount of bend in the DFW axle. As long as it's not touching, you're good.

Now, I'm sure that there are some who have tested and are convinced that the wheel needs to be between 3/32" and 7/64" or something like it for ultimate speed. (!! These numbers are totally made up!!)

NDFW locked in place: Consensus is that the car is faster with the wheel locked in place than free-wheeling. Presumably, if the rail is contacted, it takes more energy having the free wheel spin up than it does if the hard plastic simply rubs and bounces off.

Fenders in full contact with NDFW: Yup. Aero. No gaps around the wheel to cause any more turbulence.

I give Crash a ton of credit; he is single handedly answering everyone's questions. And he IS a good racer. Make no mistake - just humble.

Thanks, B. But I think you might be confusing "long in the tooth" with "good racer" I'm good at our Pack and District level, but am the Lanterne Rouge here.

I've been forcing myself to not respond to everything, half expecting a "shut up already, Crash!" and half a "Good night! No! Don't listen to that advice!"

 

[bracketracer]

I appreciate the responses crash -no one else seems to be chiming in on these questions - for fear of seeming like a jerk for my 5 yr old comment I was referring to crash's profile page where he put 5 yrs old for his age! Haha. My wife would probably say I act like a 2 yr old sometimes!

Just FYI, the "Date of Birth" section for the guys that were here before the big website re-do, is actually the date they joined the forum unless they had a mod go in and change it as far as I know.

I thought Crash was doing a fine job answering your questions and I didn't disagree with anything he said so I didn't see any need to comment! lol

I know I've tried 1 cube between, 2 between, plates underneath. Every car is different, you just need to find what it likes and go with it. If you're going to cut the axle strut, just be sure to recheck your axle alignment after it's all glued back up. Like TRE said, though, start with 12 x 12 at first. When you get that car sorted, then build a second and try to beat it.

 

[M Tull]

Height of NDFW: I drill the axle holes at the same height (can see through the body). The NDFW is raised by the amount of bend in the DFW axle. As long as it's not touching, you're good.

Now, I'm sure that there are some who have tested and are convinced that the wheel needs to be between 3/32" and 7/64" or something like it for ultimate speed. (!! These numbers are totally made up!!)

NDFW locked in place: Consensus is that the car is faster with the wheel locked in place than free-wheeling. Presumably, if the rail is contacted, it takes more energy having the free wheel spin up than it does if the hard plastic simply rubs and bounces off.

Fenders in full contact with NDFW: Yup. Aero. No gaps around the wheel to cause any more turbulence.

Thank you very much for your time and sharing your expertise!

 

[wags2633]

Ah that makes sense- you think it's glued on top of the two rows of cubes? Seems like it would have to replace some cubes and not be in addition to it otherwise it would be too much weight- I guess I've never seen that before _ can't believe how many new things I come across in here- new to me anyway haha

The pictures I remember had the plates taped on with foil tape. I tried taping a plate over the cubes while tuning a car, but it did not make the car any faster. I haven't experimented any further.

 

[derbydentist]

BSA slop and angle of bend: Just get the axle through the bore. You might need to change the amount of steer (less?) for ultimate speed. Without a track though, just go for the normal 4" in 4' and see what happens

Thanks Crash I will try a few different angles and see what turns up. I do have access to a track my dad has a 35'( I think) Best Track - I know its not the pro length. So I will have to spend some time testing the steer.

Height of NDFW: I drill the axle holes at the same height (can see through the body). The NDFW is raised by the amount of bend in the DFW axle. As long as it's not touching, you're good

I never thought about the DFW axle bend lifting the NDFW off the ground - I have always assumed the hole was drilled higher ... so thanks again for yet another eye opener!

The pictures I remember had the plates taped on with foil tape. I tried taping a plate over the cubes while tuning a car, but it did not make the car any faster. I haven't experimented any further

Thanks for letting me know - I was tempted to buy the plates to try it out but sounds like its not a good speed advantage and I worry about it hitting the stop section and popping the car up and off the track.

BracketRacer - thank you as well for your advice - sounds like a great plan to try one car, try to duplicate it and change that on the next car and see if there is any speed advantage. Im glad you told me about the age change haha. I just thought it was funny cuz that is something I probably would have put down for my age as well

 

[Matt's Dad]

So is 7+ degrees DFW reccomended for graphite too?

 

[Rocket car]

So is 7+ degrees DFW reccomended for graphite too?

Yes

 

[Matt's Dad]

Yes

Thanks.