NEW DD4H Silver Bullet Pro Questions

[King Racing]

Or you can buy a $250 proxxon and spend hours truing.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

If you do not have the ability to turn your own wheels, it costs a ton. This new jig is just a drop in the bucket compared to what I spend to race as competitively as I can possibly be.

 

[Kinser Racing]

Someone does and his name is Goat Boy. He makes a full length solid version and a version that is fully adjustable too with a raised NDFW whole built in. It also has two other holes drilled perfectly straight across from each other which gives you options. Runs are sporadic but his quality is top notch. It is much less expensive compared to John's simple contraption. I see no improvements over the Goat Boys jig - actually it has fewer features. And being short and stubby, if your block does not fit in snugly, it can be prone to movement and misalignment. A longer jig gives you greater area to steady the block which is why a full length design assures perfect alignment. For the price, I think John could have offered a better product since Goat Boy already does. Honestly, I would much rather pay $175 for Goat Boys tool than this.

I have been racing for almost seven years and I have only seen one long fixture in a picture. I have never had the opportunity to even purchase one. The short fixture works just fine.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Just seen bulldawg video about the fixture. Why don't someone build the fixture so it is the whole length of the car and have it where you can drill 5 inch wheel base or 4 3/4 base. Then drill the front with one side dfw and ndfw. or am I missing something. My thinking is if the whole car is in the fixture it would reduce in a bad drill job.

The only thing that really matters is the rears are dead on. The front can be played with and you WANT to play around with different heights.

 

[speed bump]

The only thing that really matters is the rears are dead on. The front can be played with and you WANT to play around with different heights.

. Thanks dd4h did not mean to stir up any thing I did not know of anything like that. I see and understand now about the rears are most important. Thanks again

 

[B_Regal Racing]

The front can be played with and you WANT to play around with different heights.

He doesn't know what he is talking about.

 

[BulldogRacing]

I believe it's a benefit of having only the rear touching the jig as you drill the rears. Takes the variable of an imperfect slightly twisted piece of wood down a bit. If you clamp wood tight and appears flat then unclamp it and re-twists your drill will be off. I drilled 5 blocks yesterday and all of them were dead on.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I believe it's a benefit of having only the rear touching the jig as you drill the rears. Takes the variable of an imperfect slightly twisted piece of wood down a bit. If you clamp wood tight and appears flat then unclamp it and re-twists your drill will be off. I drilled 5 blocks yesterday and all of them were dead on.

He doesn't know what he is talking about.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Does anyone know why Goat Boy has been deleted from this forum? Hmmmmmm?!?!

Do you know why??? Hmmmm...

Might be that a line of products I helped develop and sold was for no apparent reason made unavailable to me and marketed through another vendor. Hmmmm...

 

[gWebber]

you might want to think about trying another hobby, like stamp licking

I was employed as a professional stamp licker at the Post Office up until the intoruction of "self adhesive" stamps ruined my career /images/boards/smilies/frown.gif It was my life, man, it was my life < crying >

 

[McDoodle]

It was my life, man, it was my life < crying >[/QUOTE]

Lol

 

[mike-E]

Someone does and his name is Goat Boy. He makes a full length solid version and a version that is fully adjustable too with a raised NDFW whole built in. It also has two other holes drilled perfectly straight across from each other which gives you options. Runs are sporadic but his quality is top notch. It is much less expensive compared to John's simple contraption. I see no improvements over the Goat Boys jig - actually it has fewer features. And being short and stubby, if your block does not fit in snugly, it can be prone to movement and misalignment. A longer jig gives you greater area to steady the block which is why a full length design assures perfect alignment. For the price, I think John could have offered a better product since Goat Boy already does. Honestly, I would much rather pay $175 for Goat Boys tool than this.

the biggest improvement is the length of the hardened bushings. if you think it's a crap deal buy the bushings yourself and take them to any local machine shop with a drawing of what you want. tell them you want those holes perfectly sized for a interference fit, spaced equally from the end and bottom of the milled channel, and square to both inside edges (zero tolerance). make sure you come back here and tell everyone the quoted price.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

the biggest improvement is the length of the hardened bushings. if you think it's a crap deal buy the bushings yourself and take them to any local machine shop with a drawing of what you want. tell them you want those holes perfectly sized for a interference fit, spaced equally from the end and bottom of the milled channel, and square to both inside edges (zero tolerance). make sure you come back here and tell everyone the quoted price.

Thank you Mike. I feel confident the product I have is a solid upgrade and every bit worth the price. As a matter of fact after using it for an hour I would pay $500 for it.

 

[TWarwick07]

I'm pretty sure it's not hard to snug up a #43 hole enough to accommodate a BSA box axle. I'll try it on some scrap this afternoon after work and see what kind of results I get.

That said, I suspect that 99% of folks who are shelling out for this tool are NOT bothering with BSA box axles... /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

I would be interested in the results of your test on the BSA axles for 2 reasons:

1 - I was planning on starting off with box stock
2 - Next years cub scout races with the nephews

Please let me know how it turns out

 

[McDoodle]

Thank you Mike. I feel confident the product I have is a solid upgrade and every bit worth the price. As a matter of fact after using it for an hour I would pay $500 for it.

Says you/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[Kinser Racing]

I would be interested in the results of your test on the BSA axles for 2 reasons:

1 - I was planning on starting off with box stock
2 - Next years cub scout races with the nephews

Please let me know how it turns out

I drilled a couple of scout blocks with a #43 and they fit just fine. Whenever I've had an axle hole loosen up, a drop of water solved the problem. This was on a pro winning car.

 

[TRE]

I would be interested in the results of your test on the BSA axles for 2 reasons:

1 - I was planning on starting off with box stock
2 - Next years cub scout races with the nephews

Please let me know how it turns out

Water or wood glue i have on it 100 times

 

[McDoodle]

Water or wood glue i have on it 100 times

I glue my axles with no problem. Just drill a tiny hole on the bottom of the car into the axle hole that you drilled. Put a drop of glue in and you're good to go.

 

[TWarwick07]

Thanks guys thats good to know. I have a set of those 92tx axles so maybe i will try them first

 

[Vitamin K]

I would be interested in the results of your test on the BSA axles for 2 reasons:

1 - I was planning on starting off with box stock
2 - Next years cub scout races with the nephews

Please let me know how it turns out

My observations basically echoed everybody else's.

A BSA axle slides into a #43 hole with just enough looseness to be a little bit worrying. Both the water drop and the thin coat of wood glue worked to snug the hole up. The wood glue actually made it a little too snug, so if you go that route, use only a tiny amount on a toothpick.