Oops!
- Thread starter AceMontana
- Start date
Hey Duck what kind of spray paint was you using?? When I paint I use Testors spray lacquer or Tamiya. Lacquer dried faster and is easier to work with than enamel.
Testors when I can, but it's expensive. Honestly, I'm not sure exactly what kind I was using, know they were name brands. I know one was Rustoleum. I'll use Walmart brand if I need to do flat black or flat white. I have a little bit of everything, but try to get a name brand when I can. Basically whatever I can afford that is the color my kids request. Usually it dries just fine, but sometimes it just doesn't. Guess it has to do with the moisture in the air. I also have a lacquer finish that I spray on sometimes to make it nice and shiny. I've never had a problem with it, always dries nice and hard, sealing in the paint, except for one when I REALLY needed it to do it's job! Like I said, I think variables in the atmosphere and temperature can have an effect. Testors is the only way to go when I can afford it.
UODATE:
Ok...sooo after sanding all over to a point of ridiculous we have this car back down to 4.95 OZ before paint....annnd heres the kicker....we also have not yey "glazed" the balsa fenders with CA glue...my fear is the CA will bring us back over wieght...my question is this...will they hold up without the glue orrrr do we drop the rear of the front fenders and go that route to conserve weight?
Ok...sooo after sanding all over to a point of ridiculous we have this car back down to 4.95 OZ before paint....annnd heres the kicker....we also have not yey "glazed" the balsa fenders with CA glue...my fear is the CA will bring us back over wieght...my question is this...will they hold up without the glue orrrr do we drop the rear of the front fenders and go that route to conserve weight?
Oh and be warned... it’s smelly. Get a fan handy . I did mine during the summer time outside.
I started using a respirator mask, similar to the one in the link, for the fumes a couple of years ago... It removes all of the fumes that irritate the sinuses and throat.
https://www.magidglove.com/North-Safety-7700-Series-Silicone-Half-Mask-Respirator-1.aspx
I really wish I would have gone with a full mask to keep the irritants out of my eyes as well.
We switched over to printable vinyl a year ago, it works great. For us we can much better design than with paint, it does not have to dry so more time for final tuning and you know much better how much weight your adding than with paint. However we still weigh just under 5 oz and bring up to weight with putty. Our pack and district allow for 5.04 gram so that is what we normally shoot for as our final weight. Only problem we have with our vinyl is that is not that smooth (esp the glossy one) and I need to cover it with clear packing tape which I can sand to a smooth finish. Our mate vinyl is a bit smoother but we still covered it with tape so it looked a bit better. Anyone know a printable vinyl that is smooth enough to run in a race without further treatment?
Betting if you called a sign shop they could tell you if there is anything available...and most likely would have an elaborate array of colors to sell cheep from scrap or remnants.
I highly recommend Monokote Trim sheets. Self adhesive, shiny and in all sorts of colors including checkerboard. Once you peel the backing off it’s practically weightless at this small a size.
http://www.monokote.com/trim.html
http://www.monokote.com/trim.html
Yeah I actually have one from my days doing bump and paint on cars. I use that too when I have to do it inside. Hadn’t even remembered that. Good call
We love using vinyl. Cheap and easy to apply. My son loves the holographic stuff. I suggested Rainbow Warrior for this year's selection, but without missing a beat he looks at me and says: "No Dad, it's Rainbow DASH..." Here's a pic of the car and us with his 5th straight, and final, pack championship.
MMMMMM......I'll bet you would get debate if you sent the car to NIST for weigh in.
g and and air pressure are not the same from place to place, or even in the same place at different times...but I have yet to have a dad ask if I factored in the buoyant force of the cars displacement.
Well I'm trying to show we were being as accurate as possible. Not that it matters now......we just got rail roded from our role as District Pinewood derby chair for next year.
Do you have to heat this stuff to get good adhesion? I really don't like heating the car up with a iron or hairdryer and risking warping of the wood. We use printable vinyl, however it's heavier than monokote and the one we use is not as smooth as I would like. Anyone know a brand of adhesive printable (semi)glossy vinyl which is smooth? I mean smooth in that you can run your finger across without feeling much resistance.
Nope. Super simple peel and stick. And the paper backing is thick enough that you can cut and trim it easy enough all shapes then peel the backing whennyou are ready to apply. Adhesive sticks great.
I’ve done single whole wraps that work wonderful and then did a real small and detailed flame job with it and it worked real nice. Though I’ll never do that again! Lol. Once you peel the backing it’s weightless and skinny pieces get hard to control.
Highly recommended.
There’s a pic somewhere of my Box Stock league car showing the purple flames over yellow wrap. Just not sure where but it’s a recent thread... I think...
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I'm thinking of carving out a car my usual 5/16 thick and doing my weight pockets and the rest kinda like a ladder body but leaving the bottom on and using this stuff to cover the top.
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