Outlaw wheels Axel Cant issue for DFW

Apr 20, 2016
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First off I canted one Axel at 1.5 * using the basic DW Axel bending block to setup my DFW.

I then realized the DW block is setup to bend the Axel for a wheel that's a half inch wide unlike the outlaw wheels. So now I'm wondering two things.

1. With the DFW Axel pushed in past the bend point, what effect will that have on the cant? I'm guessing it's going to mess up the Axel hole at the very least /images/boards/smilies/frown.gif

2. Questioning my options for the NDFW ...

Option 1. If I bend that Axel higher using the same tool so it's off the ground, it will be very hard to get in the body as I have to go past the bend (again trashing the Axel hole I'm assuming)

Option 2. Shave the NDFW down to a smaller size so it's off the ground on a straight Axel (easy way).

Option 3. I might be able to drill a higher Axel hole that might allow it to clear the ground on a straight Axel.
This is a big maybe as I'm not sure the hole can be drilled or that it will be high enough.

Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated , thanks
(My next car I'm buying a pre drilled block or a way better tool)
 
With the cant on the DFW the NDFW should already be off the ground with a straight axle. If not just giving it a very slight bend isn't a big deal . What kind of axles are you working with? I think I would maybe try to use your axle from the NDFW side and bend it based on your outlaw wheel width vs trying to push the axle into the hole that far past the bend. I assume you have a set of 4 axles. Use that bent axle you did with the DW tool for your ndfw if you have to or better yet use a spare axle to add the NDFW on. If anything go to the store and get a BSA wheel pack and grab another axle from there. If you use your 4th axle dont use that DW tool to bend your axle unless you can calibrate it to bend where you want it to. Preferably I would suggest going the route of tapping it with a screwdriver and mallet while it is on a vice. 5kids racing has a tutorial on his site for that.

If you think you can get it pushed in that far I wouldn't be worried about getting the hole funky since it is not like the rear wheels and doesn't need to be perfectly aligned with another wheel.
 
Kinser Racing said:
Pics of the wheels and axle would help. Your wheel should have the same or similar bore length as a big wheel.

I think I've figured out the issue. Will post results as I get them.
 
ngyoung said:
With the cant on the DFW the NDFW should already be off the ground with a straight axle. If not just giving it a very slight bend isn't a big deal . What kind of axles are you working with? I think I would maybe try to use your axle from the NDFW side and bend it based on your outlaw wheel width vs trying to push the axle into the hole that far past the bend. I assume you have a set of 4 axles. Use that bent axle you did with the DW tool for your ndfw if you have to or better yet use a spare axle to add the NDFW on. If anything go to the store and get a BSA wheel pack and grab another axle from there. If you use your 4th axle dont use that DW tool to bend your axle unless you can calibrate it to bend where you want it to. Preferably I would suggest going the route of tapping it with a screwdriver and mallet while it is on a vice. 5kids racing has a tutorial on his site for that.

If you think you can get it pushed in that far I wouldn't be worried about getting the hole funky since it is not like the rear wheels and doesn't need to be perfectly aligned with another wheel.

Thanks for the info.
 
Kinser Racing said:
Pics of the wheels and axle would help. Your wheel should have the same or similar bore length as a big wheel.

wheels and axels are Derby Worx RS wheels (I got them cheap)

So I checked the bore depth, of the Derby Worx RS wheels, they have a bore depth of 3/16.
The stock Pine Car brand kit wheels are closer to 3/8.
I don't know how those compare to the BSA wheels or others.

But the Derby Works Axel bender block seems to be designed for the 3/8 depth wheels.

This put the bend in a pretty bad place for the skinny 3/16 depth RS wheels.

Anyway, I had to do a bit of a Micky mouse job and I have no real idea of the degree is now, but I got the car to steer (reasonably) correctly to about 4 1/2 or 5 inches over 4 feet. Maybe not great, but it'll have to do.
 
Kinser Racing said:
Unfortunately, that is the problem. You will get what you pay for in this hobby.

It's an unfortunate side effect of being my poor. I did however breakdown and get your Wheel & Axel deal the other day ... I just needed to skip a couple of lunches to do it
 
Kinser Racing said:
My wheel and axle deal?

You mean Johns?

We are not partners or anything other than good friends.

Oops, my bad. Was thinking John's deal and just started typing. Sorry
 
HECK YA' !
Wheels & Axels came today!

Thanks to DerbyDad4Hire's fast service I can run some decent wheels on "Coffin Nail" instead of trying to get my old PineCar wheels round. That'll be something I'll mess with for fun, not nine days before Derby day.

Meanwhile I finished up "Invader" wither some Delrin washers, which I found very difficult to get glued to the body because the glue doesn't want to stick to them. Proof they are slippery I guess, lol. (Suggestions would be welcomed).

Now I just need to get my race registration changed from Adult Open to Pro ... I screwed up while registering /images/boards/smilies/frown.gif
 
Kinser Racing said:
Rough up one side of the washer on a piece of sandpaper. It gives the glue more to stick to.

I'll try that on "Coffin Nail" now that it's nearly ready.

Thanks for the tip.