Raw Body cut out

Jan 23, 2014
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Here is the next car I started today. 5/16" Thick, drilled with silver bullet, tested on tuning table, routed out for tungston, 2 rows in rear of axle two in front+. DFW 1/16 shaved off body, I'll cover the bottom with Mono Coat. Weight came in at .48 ounces before fenders

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Man I've learned so much. I started reading this forum about 8 weeks ago, I thought I had a lot of skills, last year I used the Pro body tool the axle bending tool, the old tuning method of marking each axle and turning all 3 to align. I we won our pack. I thought I was Pine wood king. Well, This year I found this site because I was looking to race in bigger ponds. I bought a bEST TRACK, (AFTER MUCH PLEADING WITH MY SWEET WIFE) So I tested a few cars I made this year against the car that smoked everyone last year, the new car won by 3+ car lengths! Thank you Pinewoodderbyonline, thank you DD4H, thank you to all the pros on here! I have found a hobby I love as much as my 3 little sons.
 
will my speed be much different by hollowing out the middle like this or would a solid body do the same thing at this point. I reduced the weight about .35 of an ounce bu routing out the middle.
 
BulldogRacing said:
will my speed be much different by hollowing out the middle like this or would a solid body do the same thing at this point. I reduced the weight about .35 of an ounce bu routing out the middle.

Some think it's faster and they could be right. I can get my car body's down to 9-10 grams without doing this. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
So basically you just router out the weight pockets then go as thin as possible in the middle correct? I was seriously considering not cutting all the way through my next car, but then saw spacewalker's ladder car video.
 
Here is what I do but I'm Pretty new at this. Cut the car @ 1/4 inch, I cut all the way through it with a scroll saw then top it with 1/32 balsa. (This is my test car so it might look a little different, it's actually a wedge) but you get the Idea. This car without paint weighed .29, I'm thinking without wedge it would be .25 or 26. Look for ways to make it lighter!!
As I sit here I know of a few ways already.
1. reduce to one cross member
2. reduce to no cross members?? I don't know how smart that would be. (some of these guys would know)
3. change all the axles to be closer to the top or bottom and shave at an angle from the front to the back, probably save quite a bit!
4. I use tightbond III, I know I could reduce the amount of glue if I try hard enough! (balsa glue??)
5. The sides are 1/8 I'm thinking I should try 3/32. Again newb here so i don't know yet the minimum could be.
6. maybe cut the whole frame so only 2/8 high, and make it into a wedge to allow the weights to stickup! (top the rails with balsa)

Dang I should have done this before, I'm going in the garage to remake my test car!!!!

Ice

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resullivan said:
This is what mine looked like. It didnt do very well sooo....
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Is that topped with balsa or whats that one wood called Basswood? Or that mini plywood?

Oh Great thanks a lot Resullivan! /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif Now I have to revamp my cars again!! I didn't think it could be sturdy enough with only a top skin on it!

Thanks
Ice
 
Kinser,

What kind of wood are you using to get it that light without removing the innards?

Sugar Pine?

I have been thinking that pine is stronger pound for pound than bass. The grain might get in the way a bit for my style but... I will have to give some sugar pine a try.

Hey fellas,
Nice car bodies. One thing Resullivan,

I try to leave a radius at the inside corners of things. It really adds to the strength.
 
It is that birch plywood or whatever it is called. Great idea laserman. I think i will do that as well as add balsa wood in the middle for the next one.