Hi i just want to thank DD4H for all his great products and the wonderful info given on here my boy won his den and had the fastest car of the whole pack the car was a rocket the only concern i had was on was that once in awhile the car would wiggle from the rear and straightened out car very consistent and i feel can be even faster at districts we are running a rail runner 2.5 neg cant rear and positive on front with 4 fenders gap set between wood and hub at about 20 thousandths do i need to move them in closer and then the rear wouldnt shake or do i dont have enough drift in to the rail it turns within the necessary inches over 4ft COG at 3/4in any info would be great again thank u so much guys u rock this is where its at no bandaid site here its all true and proven and correct again thank you so much
rear alignment shake
- Thread starter nwo racing
- Start date
- Nov 24, 2011
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Give it a touch more steer, be careful not to go to much. If you can actually feel or see the axle turn, that's to much. Just a little more. Steer is what you want, drift is when the rear wiggles down the track. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif
Thanks for the reply kinser i dont think i mentioned it was a wood track at was 32 ft from start pin to finish line the district track is a 42 ft aluminum when u say more steer is that mean bending the axle more i used the bullet to drill holes true in the slots
No he means go more than 4" over 4'. Turn the DFW bent axle to get the car into the rail sooner so 5" over 4'. I had to do that for my son's car and it worked well. Had the same problems u did.
Thanks obsessedderbydad the axle is straight drilled in a canted hole so im going to have to try and bend the axle on the fdw then to get the steer my boy needs
I'm sorry, I misread. I thought you said you had a positive cant on the DFW already. It's really easy to bend. Put the axle in the wheel and Mark the very bottom of the wheel where the hub ends with a marker. Then put a groove in the axle, either with a dremel or file. Put the axle in a vise and use a flathead screw driver and tap it once or twice with a hammer and check for it. Should have a slight bend to it. Then you're good to go. Positive cant on the front and turn the axle to get your proper tuning. Also not to its really nice if you put a slot on the axle head so you can use a screw driver to turn it rather than pliers.
No obsessedderbydad the hole is drilled positive but the nail is straight and unfortunately we cant cut a notch in the axle head to dial it in would be great though so i have to try and just bend a little bend in it and dial it with pliers at least i got the kind that wont damage the head of the nail
is there a reason you can't cut a notch in the nail head? If the hole is drilled at a positive cant, dont bend the axle too much
If you were racing on a wood track with a little wiggle (not the whole flat section) and district is on a aluminum track, you will probably be ok, with out doing anything. It is a gamble though.
- Nov 24, 2011
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+1on kinser comment ... Just a touch ... BUT ------
Based on the later info of a wood track ... I'd LEAVE IT ALONE !!!
Run it as is ... I like the odds of the aluminum track curing the issue
Leave it ! Or you'll slow it down !
All that said without seeing the car or track .... I'd leave it
Based on the later info of a wood track ... I'd LEAVE IT ALONE !!!
Run it as is ... I like the odds of the aluminum track curing the issue
Leave it ! Or you'll slow it down !
All that said without seeing the car or track .... I'd leave it
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