Rules Help

I am not saying she is the arbiter, but she works with the lady who is from my understanding. I am trying to find out who created these rules. The pack master seems to agree with her and he will be the one judging for our pack. I really do not know who comes up with the rules.
 
chennemann,

My suggestion would be to have them show you how they are going to inspect it.

Also, with stock wheels and axles, 1 degree is undetectable in my opinion by just sitting it on a table. There is just too much slop in the wheel to axle interface.
 
Knotthed said:
chennemann,

My suggestion would be to have them show you how they are going to inspect it.

Also, with stock wheels and axles, 1 degree is undetectable in my opinion by just sitting it on a table. There is just too much slop in the wheel to axle interface.

I second this suggestion.

It's almost impossible to build a car and have all of the weight distributed equally on all four wheels.

Also, if you buy enough BSA axles, you're gonna find a few that are bent enough to qualify for at least 1 degree of cant. You could use these and honestly say you had not modified them.
 
How would I get 1 degree angle with the silver bullet? Also do you think cutting the car like suggest above and putting a 1 degree steer to the front wheels be within the rules?
 
chennemann said:
How would I get 1 degree angle with the silver bullet? Also do you think cutting the car like suggest above and putting a 1 degree steer to the front wheels be within the rules?

You'd need to drill with a smaller pin size under the block. Some other folks could probably give you the specific size you'd want.
 
When I bought my silver bullet it came with a chart to show what angle any pin size would give. I don't have it in front of me but I am sure someone could post it. There is no way inspectors are going to be able to enforce that tight of tolerance. At this point you're really just trying to bias your tolerance for error in the direction you want vs having each axle possibly going at a different angle.

You may not be as fast as previous year but as long as they actually enforce their rules I am sure you will perform just as good as before, relative to the competition.
 
chennemann said:
Also do you think cutting the car like suggest above and putting a 1 degree steer to the front wheels be within the rules?

If this is in reference to txchemist's method, I think that it would be in line with the rules to do so. Just make sure that you sand and paint well over the join, just to keep inspectors from getting stupid.
 
I agree with Knotthed and Vitamin K: The slop in the bores of the wheels is enough to let them run flat when the axle is angled at 1*.

In my experience, the person doing the check-in will roll the car and make sure that all four wheels roll. And that's it. Someone might get their eye down to the surface and look for daylight, but that is unlikely, and scout-built cars are going to have all sorts of wonky axle attachments.
Another likelihood is that they'll have a check-in box: stick the car in and close the end to check height/width/length. Then try to spin each of the wheels; if any spin, you are out of spec (chassis too low, or a wheel or wheels too high).

In either test case, you would pass easily.
 
According to this site http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm a 3/32 drill bit would be pretty darn close. I can find one of those pretty easy.
 
If you have an Ace hardware near you, they have gauge size drill bits. None of the big box home stores had them back when I was first looking.
 
chennemann said:
Last year my boy took first place and it looks like they are modifying the rules this year to take away the advantages we had.

My thoughts are the following:
Could I tow the wheels like I did last year? They would still be aligned.
I would assume having the bent nail in the front would be illegal. All 4 wheels will need to touch.
I have to use Zero Friction Graphite instead of oil. Would it be best to do oil first then graphite over it?
Would using nail polish on the car to reduce friction with the wheel be legal?
Dynasty BASX
Dynasty BSA with points

Would this pass inspection?

Please let me know what I can use without issues:

1. The BSA National Supply Pinewood Derby Car, part # 17006, must be used.
2. Details such as steering wheels, driver decals, fenders, paintings, and exterior details are permissible as long as the inclusion of these details does not exceed the length, width, weight, height, and ground clearance specifications and race inspectors can still view wheels and axles for inspection.

Dimensions 1. The total overall width must NOT exceed 2-3/4 (2.75) inches and the total overall length must not exceed 7 inches. 2. The wheel track must be between 1-3/4 (1.75) inches and 1-7/8 (1.875) inches. 3. The clearance between the bottom of the car (including added-weights) and the flat surface on which the car is placed must be at least 3/8 (0.375) inches. 4. The car’s height may be no more than 6 inches as measured from a flat surface to the highest point on the vehicle. 5. The car must not hang up on the track during the race.

Weight and Weights 1. The total weight of the racer must not exceed 5.00 ounces (141.75 grams) which shall be determined by the official scale. 2. No loose materials of any kind will be allowed on the car. 3. No taped-on weights will be allowed. Must be glued, screwed or sunk in. 4. Liquid or movable weights are not allowed. For example, the BB shots in a hollowed out compartment of the race car must be firmly attached to the race car and not loose in the compartment. 5. Weights must be attached to car body only (not to wheels or axels).

Axles and Wheels 1. The stock wheel base length of 4 13/32" must be maintained to within 1/32" tolerance. 2. The two pre-cut slots provided on the block of wood in the kit are the required location for placing the official BSA nail axles into the car. YOU MAY NOT change axle location (cannot move forward, backwards, raise or lower). 3. Wheel bearings, washers and bushings are prohibited. Body skins applied between the wheel and the body is considered as a bushing / washer. 4. The use of spring, shocks, or starting devices is strictly prohibited. 5. The Derby Car MUST be freewheeling. 6. Do not cover axle or axles. 7. Axles may not be altered in any way (except the light sanding to remove the burs). 8. The axles must be the steel axles supplied with the wheels (they will be checked with a magnet). 9. Axles MUST be aligned with each other (front right axle even with the front left axle and back right axle even with the back left axle). 10. The wheels must be those from the BSA Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit or the BSA approved (will have a BSA logo on them) Black or Colored wheels. NO SUBSTITUTIONS ARE PERMITTED! 11. Competition wheels sold by hobby shops and modified wheels that have been altered are not allowed. 12. Wheels CANNOT BE MODIFIED other than removing the seam from the tread area as instructed in the kit. 13. Hubcaps (such as stickers on the outside of the wheel), paint or any other markings on wheels is not allowed. 14. CARS MUST HAVE 4 WHEELS ONLY AND SIT EQUALLY ON A FLAT SURFACE!

Lubricants 1. Only dry graphite or BSA approved Teflon may be used for lubrication of wheels on axles. If any other type is used, the car will be disqualified. 2. Derby Cars must be lubricated for the last time BEFORE check-in and will race all races without further lubrication.

Design 1. Scouts and Parents must be willing to certify that, on their honor, the Scout designed the car and participated in the fabrication of the car.

Thanks for the help.

Chennemann - Congrats to your son. This is only our second year and it seems few let their boys do the work instead of working with them they just do it. What pack or district are you from those seem like some stringent rules. Were you able to use oil last year? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Well we put it together and tested today. The race is tomorrow. His car is about half a car length slower than last year. But he is using stock wheels, axles, didn't bend the front axle (used the 1 percent trick txchemist), and graphite compared to oil last year. Also last year we had one raised wheel.

We do have fenders we could put on. Do they help? We are having a hard time getting them on with crazy glue.

I believe this is pretty close. He won easily last year, so he should be competitive assuming everyone follows the new rules.
 
Thanks for the help. My boy won with an average time of 2.54. The closest average was 2.60.

We did get the gee fenders on. We were trying to put them on the wrong way. With quicker drying CA glue it wasn't hard at all. All the tips really did help. Thanks again....
 
Went to districts and my son did well. Came in second 3 out 4 races, place 4-6 in wolfs. His time were around 2.64 on this track. The best being around 2.59-2.58. So of these cars weight placement was not great (lead weights on the top of the car) but still had great times.

Check in basically they did the weight, check for total width, length and if it had tire width clearance. They checked to make sure wheels were aligned, canting and if it had 4 on the floor (no 3 wheeled cars). They did disqualify one or two cars because of canting or hardly looked at wheels at all, didn't do a magnet test.

Since I ran stock wheels and axles, I am concerned he was at a disadvantage. I will never know for sure, it is possible the top quarter of the racers were just much better. I now he probably could of done the following which would of made him competitive:

Oil
Cheetah wheels
92 with points axles

It was a great learner experience and he had fun. I focused on spending more time next year fine tuning the car. But I hate the fact that rules are not enforced. I would much rather say build a fast car and have rules you enforce.

Thanks for the help, it was a fun year....
 
chennemann said:
Since I ran stock wheels and axles, I am concerned he was at a disadvantage. I will never know for sure, it is possible the top quarter of the racers were just much better. I now he probably could of done the following which would of made him competitive:

Oil
Cheetah wheels
92 with points axles

The three things you listed are specifically singled out as being illegal in the rules you posted.
 
chennemann said:
Went to districts and my son did well. Came in second 3 out 4 races, place 4-6 in wolfs. His time were around 2.64 on this track. The best being around 2.59-2.58. So of these cars weight placement was not great (lead weights on the top of the car) but still had great times.

Check in basically they did the weight, check for total width, length and if it had tire width clearance. They checked to make sure wheels were aligned, canting and if it had 4 on the floor (no 3 wheeled cars). They did disqualify one or two cars because of canting or hardly looked at wheels at all, didn't do a magnet test.

Since I ran stock wheels and axles, I am concerned he was at a disadvantage. I will never know for sure, it is possible the top quarter of the racers were just much better. I know he probably could of done the following which would of made him competitive:

Oil
Cheetah wheels
92 with points axles

These were against the rules but they did not check for any of them.

It was a great learner experience and he had fun. I focused on spending more time next year fine tuning the car. But I hate the fact that rules are not enforced. I would much rather say build a fast car and have rules you enforce.

Thanks for the help, it was a fun year....