Hey guys, I am running into a bit of a problem and need some advice. I have been drilling up some blocks with the goat boy fixture and am having a hard time getting both back wheels to migrate out. I put the block in the fixture, and clamp it it, then use my general pin vise to drill. Our carpenter cut out some practice blocks for me, but then I drilled my sons pinewood block and the same thing. One migrated, but the other didn't. Am i doing something wrong? I bought the drill bit from John also. I do have the silver bullet too, that I havent tried yet. I am a bit lost right now though. Thanks
Running into problems
- Thread starter whitaker717
- Start date
Check to make sure the block you are drilling is perfectly flat on the bottom. Next make sure the block is square in the fixture, if the fixture is not square on the block of wood it will cause the drill to be off. Mark your block to be drilled, mount in fixture, and put it on graph paper to make sure all is square.
V
Vitamin K
Guest
Are you using stock axles, or aftermarket? If stock, make sure that you've selected straight ones.
whitaker717 said:
Make sure you are using a #43 bit. Go SLOWWWW. I saw on another board that others were trying to use a #44 bit. This will leave too much slop in the guides.
Vitamin K may also be on to the culprit. Make sure you are using straight axels to test the drill. I would not trust scout axels for this test.
Vitamin K may also be on to the culprit. Make sure you are using straight axels to test the drill. I would not trust scout axels for this test.
V
Vitamin K
Guest
So, if your rules require that you use actual BSA parts, I'd suggest that you buy a tube or two of wheels and axles and spin the axles in a drill to select the straightest ones.
Alternately, you can buy the Revell wheels and axles, which are BSA branded, but the axles are smoother and straighter. (I'm told the wheels are crappy, though, so don't use those.)
If you're allowed to use aftermarket axles, buy some and use those instead.
Alternately, you can buy the Revell wheels and axles, which are BSA branded, but the axles are smoother and straighter. (I'm told the wheels are crappy, though, so don't use those.)
If you're allowed to use aftermarket axles, buy some and use those instead.
whitaker717 said:
Measure the width of the wood block with a caliper. The if the block is under 1.750" then you need to shim the fixture with tape on each side to make up the difference. Masking tape is about .004" thick.
For example if your wood block measures 1.742". Then you shim each side of your fixture with one thickness of tape to close the gap across the fixture to 1.742". The width of the fixture is 1.750"
The key is to make sure the wood block is snug in the fixture and sits flat before drilling. Always shim both sides equally with tape and not just one side.
Search by my name on this board and you will find more info on this topic to help you.
For example if your wood block measures 1.742". Then you shim each side of your fixture with one thickness of tape to close the gap across the fixture to 1.742". The width of the fixture is 1.750"
The key is to make sure the wood block is snug in the fixture and sits flat before drilling. Always shim both sides equally with tape and not just one side.
Search by my name on this board and you will find more info on this topic to help you.
swap out the axles and see if that changes. Were you drilling into and testing a full BSA block? If you cut it down thin and added weight pockets already you may be flexing the wood if you clamped it down too hard. Vise versa can happen when drilling then cutting, the body can warp when wood is cut away.
Are you testing with polished axles or raw axles? Those burs will chew up your wheel bores and can effect how well it travels to the ends.
Are you testing with polished axles or raw axles? Those burs will chew up your wheel bores and can effect how well it travels to the ends.
It is the full block of wood. I tend to drill first, then cut it down. I have some old axles and wheels I am using as test subject. Not perfect but not all tore up either. Also I roll it without the weights in it. Should I drill then cut weight pockets and add weight then test?
I make use of my old derby worx pro axle jig and just set it on top of the block where my weight will eventually go. It varies a little from each builder on the order that they cut and drill. Some of it depends on how light they plan on going or how they weight their cars. The key is to keep checking. You have the silver bullet and that works good as a nice flat surface to check that the bottom sits flat after each step along with the slow roll test.
Did the block of wood fit tight in the fixture?
There is another post recently that discusses the order of operations for making the body like cut the weight pockets or drill first.
http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/drill-first-or-cut-out-first-7226632?pid=1285604674#post1285604674
There is another post recently that discusses the order of operations for making the body like cut the weight pockets or drill first.
http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/drill-first-or-cut-out-first-7226632?pid=1285604674#post1285604674
Make sure the block is not loose in the fixture. If turned slightly sideways it will throw off a drill. As Hogan said make sure the block is not warped. Sand or plane as needed, to square up the block of wood. Clamp tightly, the same way you would if using the Silver Bullet. Starting out with a flat/squared piece of wood makes all the difference no matter which tool is used. Because once the block is released from the fixture it will find its way to its original shape. Square blocks..... are a must.
If you're giving it a slow roll with no weight in it that might be why you're having a problem. The rear wheel with more weight on it kicks out quicker. Put an ounce next to the rear wheel on the same side as your DFW and see how it does.
First, ensure that the bushings are straight by inserting two correctly sized drill bits into the device and compare the angles as the tip of the drill bits touch each other at the center of the device. Second, make sure your block is squared to the device and fits snug bit not so much as to cause warping once the block is removed. Third, they are available everywhere, buy a set of trued BSA zinc axles and use those for your tests. An axle removal tool or heavy twine wrapped around the axle head will assist in removing the nails without damaging the wheels.
