Scout PWD car build questions

Chiming in...those original rules blow, like somebody said here "somebody got beat and mad". What gets me, is they said maximum 10 degree angle of wheels, but all 4 tire surfaces must remain flat. <--- Really? Whoever wrote the rules doesn't understand the fundamentals of PWD. I liked Kinser's comment (doesn't say you can't groove the axles). Bottom line, those rules were written to even everybody up, yet everybody is finding ways to be fast by loop holes. Why not open the rules up and allow creativity and educate everybody and just have FUN!
 
mxquad said:
[T]hey said maximum 10 degree angle of wheels, but all 4 tire surfaces must remain flat.
By "flat" they were referring to the surface of the tread — no "v"-ing, "H"-ing, etc. — and that the tread must be parallel to the bore. The axles can be mounted at up to a 10 degree angle.
 
Again another example of someone trying to make it "fair" for everyone. So all weight inside, so the kid that wants the dragster driver can't do it b.c the weight would be outside the body.

You seem to already know what you're doing. It's pretty much BASX with a slight twist. The weight inside the body and can't narrow the body are the twists. You can still rail run, but you can't use the Puma weights sadly. Dry lube is graphite OR anything that is dry by the time of the race /images/boards/smilies/wink.gif
 
This might get them all hot- good Chance you get away with it and they change the rules next year-, bring another normal car if worried, but it IS exactly the rule 1 3/4" width the entire body. Adjust offset to get DFW on rail with back wheels off rail and centered. Test roll against a yardstick to see if car tracks correctly- adjust offset and steer- repeat- mark glue. Any CUB can do all the work.

car2run.jpg
 
Some people see rules.

Other people see a challenge. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif

Props to you for this bit of outside-the-box thinking.

txchemist said:
This might get them all hot- good Chance you get away with it and they change the rules next year-, bring another normal car if worried, but it IS exactly the rule 1 3/4" width the entire body. Adjust offset to get DFW on rail with back wheels off rail and centered. Test roll against a yardstick to see if car tracks correctly- adjust offset and steer- repeat- mark glue. Any CUB can do all the work.
 
Love that one TX Chemist

If last year is any indicator, then organizers will be looking on this forum for a set of rules they can use.
Can someone start a thread with a rules set or two to use as a guideline? This way we can easily direct them to the thread.
Perhaps another thread showing pictures of negative/ positive cant and other common terms. It may save us all a lot of typing.
Thanks in advance.
 
Txchemist's rules hack has me thinking now. I wonder if any kind of competitive advantage could be gained by severing the front end and deliberately twisting it a number of degrees before gluing it back together and sanding smooth.

Would this not possibly yield A) positive camber on the DFW, B) lifted NDFW and C) inset of the DFW without actually narrowing the axle width in front?

Might be able to put a screw in there so that you could test with varying degrees of twist, and then glue it when you've got it where you want it.
 
Vitamin- that was the whole idea of my post showing how to make both 4 on the floor or 3 wheeler with Cub doing the tuning with strips of paper.
http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/drift-adjustment-for-cubs-7000286?pid=1283633571#post1283633571
 
Aha, Twisted minds must think alike. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

txchemist said:
Vitamin- that was the whole idea of my post showing how to make both 4 on the floor or 3 wheeler with Cub doing the tuning with strips of paper.
http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/drift-adjustment-for-cubs-7000286?pid=1283633571#post1283633571