Side Fence - Drilling Axle Holes

[ngyoung]

He didn't need the laser to line it up. He just has his fence set at the correct distance. He also uses 2 spacers to keep the canted holes and straight holes at the same height. You don't need a laser to do what he did. Just lower the press when it is turned off to meet your mark then lock your fences down. The bottom fence should then stay put until both rear axle holes are drilled. That is really the most important part. The side fence needs to move when you're flipping the block. It is only there to lock in the block so it doesn't migrate side to side while drilling into the block.

If you want to get it set so you don't have to move the bottom fence for canted and un-canted holes you need to make 2 different width spacers like the one he used in the video. That detail wasn't shown in John's video and looks like he used the same one for his back canted holes and his straight front holes. He actually uses 2 since the height changes when you have the bullet slanted on the pin or flat on the table.

 

[GravityX]

When lining up the drill at the point needing to be drilled, I always bring the bit down to just barely make contact with the wood. I then back the drill up to see if my mark is dead on. If my drill mark is spot on I continue the drill. If not, make adjustments, drill another spot, continue to do this until the spot is dead center.

 

[ngyoung]

It would be a very bad idea to try to drill without a fence. The table would need to be dead on square. Any little bit off would mess up the alignment when flipping the block to drill the opposite side since there is little chance you'd be able to keep the X axis the same.

 

[Guest]

Ok so I viewed the video. Saw it last year very cool info. However john is using his laser and eyes to confirm his starting point. I want to use a fence and I just need to do more leg work to figure out how. I do not trust my eyes to hit the mark, otherwise I would not use any fences at all, just look and drill.
Sorry for not being more clear laser. I use the silver bullet to drill my block. I used one fence and a stop just like the video.

Laser have you seen Zoolander... "it's in the computer"...

Hey JC,
Zoolander got the idea for that joke by observing me!

Hey Eric,
You know that you are going to wish you never taught me when I do figure it out.

The thing with a jig is that the stops have to be exactly equidistant from the bit.
It takes a hole lot of trial and error. After you get it dialed in you can't touch the setup at all or even sneeze near it.
When I first tried a jig I made it like yours because I was flipping it on the long axis.
I am not sure if I am reading it correctly though.
Maybe I have a photo of the jig that worked out OK.
Knowing D4D he has just come up with a brilliant better solution.
If you want a laugh check out the topic Bullet Catcher under new PWD products.
That was where I started on it and it morphed from there.

 

[JCovert]

Thanks all for your feed back. Yes laser it complicated to set up. To be clear I am drilling axles for eliminator. The whole question pertains to drilling both of the rear axles as parallel to each other as I can. I have always marked my block and carefully lined up the bit with the mark as stated above. I think that I can find a way to be more precise than that. So I am finding a way to use a fence or any other method to mechanically make sure I am going to be parallel. I hope this makes sense.

 

[Guest]

Dang JC!
You could have mentioned that before I referenced that embarrassing thread!

Ok. Crazy idea # 447

Disclaimer :
I have never made an unlimited or elim. car

Perhaps it is best not to try to line up the holes?

How about drilling a hole "too big" right through the car.
After that insert some type of tube (with an ID about .086") into the hole.
From
There use the Bullet/ drill press (with pin gage) to line the whole kit and caboodle up, and glue it in place.
This is just a wild idea, but I have a similar one for doing canted rears.

 

[JCovert]

Yea I'm good at leaving out the important parts. I think I've got it licked though and in a super easy way. I'm gonna drill holes in the Silver Bullet on the side the same size as the guide pin that comes with it. You should be able to make a spacer like the derbydadforhire video but skinner. Set up your first fence. With your Silver Bullet block on its side n ready to drill you will put the spacer between the fence n SB and there will be a hole in the side of the SB that you will line up by chucking the guide pine and plunging it into the new alignment hole on the SB. This will allow you to set a side fence perdendicular to the first fence. Then remove the spacer and push the SB aginst both fences and drill. After you will flip the block and repeate with the other side that also has a alignment hole predrilled in the side of the SB. I'm not sure if I will make my own alignment holes or have machine shop dial me in. If I drill my own making my spacer would be easer because I will use it to drill the new holes for the first time. I will drill holes for the rears and some for the fronts at difference W.B's like 4-3/4 or 5" etc. I am naming it "Covert alignment holes" maybe DD4Hire will start making his bullet this way with a spacer and alignment holes from the factory in my honor...maybe not. I'm thinking this should work well I will post pictures when I complete it so it can be explained better (and with less words).

 

[Guest]

That sounds interesting JC

 

[JCovert]

Thanks laser it's not going to be easy to set up but once the holes are drilled They will be set for good (or bad). I had a chance to get started and it's going to be stressful to be confident I have the holes in the right place. I'm not going to rush myself. It's the old measure twice cut once (or measure a lot cut once) The cool thing is once I have them set you could use the method to drill strait or canted and you will know your rear alignment is a lot more controlled as less of the eyeball method of lining up a bit to a mark.

 

[JCovert]