So many polishes....what to use...

Mar 2, 2012
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Ok. I have John's DVD. We have to run graphite so we cannot use oil. I have:

1) wheel bore polish #1
2) wheel bore polish #2
3) legends (I don't think John sells this anymore)
4) Red Rocket.

Do I skip wheel bore polish #2 and use Legends and then Red Rocket, or do I skip legends. Is the Red Rocket used the same as bore polish #2? How long do you leave it on before buffing it out with pipe cleaner? If I leave it on longer is that better and do I burnish in graphite when I use the pipe cleaner to buff out the RR?

I know that is a lot of questions, but if anyone can help, I would appreciate it.
 
Prepping your wheels involves 2 steps for oil and 3 steps for graphite:

Step #1 - polish wheel bore

Oil & Graphite: cordless drill, DD4H wheel bore polish #1, Walgreen's Q-tip, clean-up

Step #2 - wax wheel bore

Oil & Graphite: DD4H wheel bore polish #2 OR Red Rocket OR Legend, let dry overnight, then buff out

Step #3 - Burnishing

Graphite Only: Burnish in DD4H graphite, Hob-E-Lube, etc...
 
thanks.

So get rid of Bore polish #2 and Legends and use Red Rocket, correct? I assume that Red Rocket is better than Legends?
 
One thing I am finding is that you want to buff the Red Rocket within 15 mins for best results. It is working better for me when i don't let it sit!

So John, instead of "Let dry for 10 minutes, blow out excess with compressed air and let dry 10 more minutes" as stated in the instructions, you're finding it better to skip that last "10 more minutes" - is that correct?
 
NewDerbyDad said:
One thing I am finding is that you want to buff the Red Rocket within 15 mins for best results. It is working better for me when i don't let it sit!

So John, instead of "Let dry for 10 minutes, blow out excess with compressed air and let dry 10 more minutes" as stated in the instructions, you're finding it better to skip that last "10 more minutes" - is that correct?

NDD

I would do the following

Let dry 10 minutes, then blow out excess
Let dry 5 more minutes then buff

Blowing out the excess is the key. It took me years to learn that less is more. If you have a thick layer of wax that is not completely dry it will slow you down. Mastering the wax application is a down fall for many new racers. For years I would send off a car to the NPWDRL and it would come back faster. Wait a month or two and it would speed up more. There is a sweet spot for wax application and you will eventually find it as you get more preps under your belt. Once I figured out what was happening during the three month break in period I was able to get that speed the first time.

This forum is the Da Vinci Code of pinewood derby secrets. Its all hear you just have to unlock it. The Red Herring days of pinewood derby tips are over. If you want to learn to prep with oil this is the forum.
 
Hey Reso. I am back at it again. I had very rough time father passed away and work and some other stuff. When it rains it pours. But found a light at the end and its the good lord! Got a new start on life and its great.
 
speed bump said:
Hey Reso. I am back at it again. I had very rough time father passed away and work and some other stuff. When it rains it pours. But found a light at the end and its the good lord! Got a new start on life and its great.

Speed sorry to hear about your father. Glad you have found some peace and are able to reboot your life. Welcome back!
 
The second half to a good oil re-prep is clean axles. If you don't have a jewelers loupe, you might want to start thinking about it.

I was shocked at how much debris your axles can accumulate. Upon re-prep dirty axles can cost you as much as .01 seconds.

One last tip!

Cut your pipe cleaners into 1" sections. When you get ready to buff use a new one for each wheel. Wax build up on the pipe cleaner can re-add gummy wax to the 2nd through 3rd wheel in order during the buff process.
 
Keep them coming Reso. I am listening. Getting ready to try my hand at the oil cars. Just got done with four graphite ones for scouts.
 
This is what I do with my pipe cleaners;

1) I chuck them in my hand drill.
2) Then I bring the drill up to top speed.
3) while the pipe cleaner is spinning I hit it with compressed air.

It fluffs the pipe cleaner to its maximum diameter. It also removes any loose fibers from the pipe cleaner. Once you prep enough you will notice the pipe cleaners will flatten during the process if it used multiple times. You can bring new life to a pipe cleaner with this tip.

Compressed air is a must when prepping for oil.
 
thanks for all of the tips guys. This is definitely the best message boards for information. The best part is that if someone puts out a tip, others are quick to chime in and set the record straight. I saw a post on a different pinewood message board about putting your car on a treadmill. No one chimed in to say how crazy that idea was. there is no telling how many people have followed that tip because other more knowledgeable posters don't speak up.

I'm glad this forum doesn't share those types of tips.
 
I have a set of Derby Worx RS Pro Razer wheels. When I tried to polish the wheel bores with a cotton swab, the shaft diameter is too large for the small Derby Worx RS Pro wheel bores. These wheels use BSA diameter axles.

What should I be using to polish the bores? I'm following the DD4H oil method.
 
I'm sure someone will correct me, but I think I read where Walgreens Q-tips were the proper size to use. I'm still using the ones that John provided in his polishing kit. If you can't find any to fit, buy John's polishing kit.