So many polishes....what to use...

KGL said:
I have a set of Derby Worx RS Pro Razer wheels. When I tried to polish the wheel bores with a cotton swab, the shaft diameter is too large for the small Derby Worx RS Pro wheel bores. These wheels use BSA diameter axles.

What should I be using to polish the bores? I'm following the DD4H oil method.

If you are doing the wheel bore polish #1 to smooth the bores try this.

Take your Q-Tip shaft and sand it down with some sand paper until the diameter is tight for the wheel bore. I believe 1500 grit will get the job done. I learned this from the great one "Spirit Racing".
 
What I have been known to do is, chuck a q-tip in a three prong drill, sand them down just like you do axles. Get them to the size you need, where they are just a snug fit in the bore. Those DW razors are a think 93 bore where a BSA wheel is about 97 to 98 bore. Some guys have expressed fear of getting sandpaper particles on the q-tip but I have never had this happen yet. I've never scratched a bore yet. The only other thing to do is buy every q-tip in town , till you find the right size. Its most likely not to be found. Then continue with the bore prep process per DD4H instructions.....SPIRIT......
 
I do a very similar thing Reso primarily to get the loose material off of the pipe cleaner.

Resophonic Racing said:
This is what I do with my pipe cleaners;

1) I chuck them in my hand drill.
2) Then I bring the drill up to top speed.
3) while the pipe cleaner is spinning I hit it with compressed air.

It fluffs the pipe cleaner to its maximum diameter. It also removes any loose fibers from the pipe cleaner. Once you prep enough you will notice the pipe cleaners will flatten during the process if it used multiple times. You can bring new life to a pipe cleaner with this tip.

Compressed air is a must when prepping for oil.
 
Yeah this is definitely great info! Several things I've been thinking about this week. I noticed some wheels that were 2.4g from my sons last years district winner were only 2/1000's slower than a new car I made with 2.0g cheetahs and fenders. The old wheels just got a light fresh coat of red rocket. It seems to me that there can be speed found in a second coat but not until the first coat is good and cured. I'd imagine if the second coat is put on too soon it will slow things down but I'm just going off limited experience with a couple cars.

Anyway Reso I'm really glad you said that about putting too much wax. I polished one the other day and after blowing out the excess I couldn't see any more polish visible but I buffed it out anyway and it left that glasslike finish I'm always after. Thanks

Oh and big thanks to the avatar fairy too
 
neverglueagain said:
Yeah this is definitely great info! Several things I've been thinking about this week. I noticed some wheels that were 2.4g from my sons last years district winner were only 2/1000's slower than a new car I made with 2.0g cheetahs and fenders. The old wheels just got a light fresh coat of red rocket. It seems to me that there can be speed found in a second coat but not until the first coat is good and cured. I'd imagine if the second coat is put on too soon it will slow things down but I'm just going off limited experience with a couple cars. Anyway Reso I'm really glad you said that about putting too much wax. I polished one the other day and after blowing out the excess I couldn't see any more polish visible but I buffed it out anyway and it left that glasslike finish I'm always after. Thanks Oh and big thanks to the avatar fairy too

That's interesting. I have done anywhere from 1 to 4 coats with plenty of cure time and I've never been able to achieve any difference.
 
Well like I said that was based on just a couple cars and the difference could have been the additional Jigaloo that was added to the axles and nothing to do with the rrocket. You've got allot more experience than I do.
 
neverglueagain said:
Well like I said that was based on just a couple cars and the difference could have been the additional Jigaloo that was added to the axles and nothing to do with the rrocket. You've got allot more experience than I do.

I wasn't discounting what you said, it could have worked for you. It just didn't make any difference for me. You may have waited what would be considered as the optimal cure time, whereas I didn't. I don't know. /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
Well I hope it's something other than me waiting on the best cure time since the first coat and second coat had about a year between them
 
KGL said:
I have a set of Derby Worx RS Pro Razer wheels. When I tried to polish the wheel bores with a cotton swab, the shaft diameter is too large for the small Derby Worx RS Pro wheel bores. These wheels use BSA diameter axles.

What should I be using to polish the bores? I'm following the DD4H oil method.

Some people use sucker stems for the smaller bores. Take your calipers to the candy store!
 
So on a wheel reprep because I am thinking of just using last years wheels we ran on the boys cars just so I do not have to work up new wheels. Do I just start from step one again and just do everything all over?
 
So I'm new to the site but have been building cars for my nephews for the last ten years (dad not involved) they've always placed well in the top three. I thought I knew how to build fast cars until reading just about everything on this site, there's a whole new level of building that fits my need to go faster & thanks for all the shared info (secrets) My question is the burnishing process, how you burnish the graphite into the wheel bore?
Thx, Bob
 
Hey Welcome to the forum. Click on "Ask the Pros" and then click the topic "Dry Lube" and read that. That should get you started and give you some answers to your questions.