The Sound of Silence
- Thread starter JCovert
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JCovert said:
I think the above comment is correct. However, on SS the rules state that some of the ribbing (or whatever you call it) must remain on the wheel. I.d. those small ribs on the bottom outside, the side where the BSA lettering appears.
I've built my quietest SS car ever. It stunk. My loudest car in SS is the fastest right now, go figure.
P.s. Opa V3s don't have the bumps and are legal in the SS class.
They are on my car to the left.
P.s. Opa V3s don't have the bumps and are legal in the SS class.
They are on my car to the left.
For me the quieter the car the faster. Typically noise is caused by vibration you want as little vibration as possible. When I tune I listen to the car it needs to be quite, smooth, and consistent.
In the SS class fluting on the edge of the wheel does not need to be on, it can be removed.
In the SS class fluting on the edge of the wheel does not need to be on, it can be removed.
JCovert said:
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I made the mistake of ordering a set of V3 cheetahs and didn't get the NPWDRL mod to remove the ribs.
The last two set's of V3 cheetahs I bought I had john do the NPWDRL mod and remove the ribs. It sure is a big difference on the tuning board. No doubt it makes a big difference on the track.
The last two set's of V3 cheetahs I bought I had john do the NPWDRL mod and remove the ribs. It sure is a big difference on the tuning board. No doubt it makes a big difference on the track.
Quiet wheels are faster than loud wheels for sure. Quiet wheels require careful sanding or polishing the tread and the hubs. The key is to be careful to not get the wheel non-concentric. The wheel after sanding should still roll straight. The hubs should remain flat and symmetric. Damage to the hubs need to be carefully sanded smooth. The bevel of the axle after so many races will dig into the lip of the bore where it meets the outer hub. This is very difficult to repair. All other areas of wear on the tires can be repaired or improved except this area. A small lip here allows the bevel to sink into the bore and that is disasterous. It isn't much, but it is the one thing that requires the wheel to be relathed. I don't know how to use a lathe or I'd be fixing this area. I rely on new wheels once this area is cut too deep.
- Nov 24, 2011
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So what you're are saying is; "If I get (eat) these V3'S (eagle eggs) I'll become the best racer (wrestler) in the whole world?"
Cool info P.E. I've been making wheels but do not have access to a lathe, so a drill press n arbor has not allowed me to tool the hub as of yet. Plus as I asked in other posts I have to make them from a pinecar kit which has backspaced wheels so I am trying to understand how that effects how they ride and how I could make them better.
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I don't know if quiet wheels are good or not, but I get this high pitch whine as the wheels spin and then they slowly slow down after 25seconds. I hear it on the tune table too. Its like hearing a RC car winding up. I'm assuming thats good or my axle are rubbing really hard into my hubs.
Yes, you can use cheetahs in the SS Am as long as they weigh 2 grams and no less. As far as the the beads on the wheel goes, you will be fine. I am no Pro and I hope they chime in, but I think there are some racers still using the Cheetah v2's with the bumps. The v3's are quieter and from what I have heard they are a little faster without the bumps. Hope this helps.cub149 said:
cub149 said:
If you're running Dynasty Rage wheels in Street Stock you are giving up a fair amount of time. Probably in the neighborhood of .025-.030 seconds.
With or without the ribs is a minor thing, .002-.003 sec maybe. But the Dynasty's are .2-.3g heavier than you need to run. If you have time to switch them out I would do it, otherwise just know that your car will be faster for the next race when you put the lightened wheels on it.
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