Whats your guy's thoughts on the Wax? Does it hold the crushed graphite in place longer? And act as a barrier between the axle and the plastic?
Thanks
Thanks
The Wax's Role???
- Thread starter The Iceman
- Start date
So are people burnishing and waxing in the same step? I've been reading some posts saying the use a wax/graphite mixture.
I burnish over the top of the wax, I believe DD4H say to mix.... either way seems to work for me.
I guess Im missing something. If you wax with a fluffy pipe cleaner. What are you going to burnish and wax with if you mix it? and how do you get the excess wax out
I don't really know the science behind it all...
I like the idea of having a nice smooth slick bore so I use a q-tip stem and a bore polish. I use the largest q-tip stem that can run through the bore while turning it slowly with an electric drill that doesn't break off in the bore... and I do break some off and sometimes I can't get the SOB's back out and have to scrap the wheel... I do this because that q-tip stem applies the pressure to polish the bore and the more pressure the better. I don't think I can enlarge a bore with a "too large" q-tip stem....
Next I like the idea of a Teflon coated surface on top of that highly polished bore, so I apply Red Rocket or Legend or similar.... I buff it out... One thin coat and remove all excess wax with a fluffy pipe cleaner, tooth pick, piece of cotton cloth or whatever it takes to get the job done.
Next I am running graphite so I want a thin film of graphite in the bore to extend my number of runs.... I know that for me dropping graphite in the bore and tenderly moving it around with a pipe cleaner does nothing except get graphite all over the place.... and it doesn't stick in the bore this way.... would I use a special pointed cotton swab to burnish? well, no, not me... The thought of using a drill and spinning that thing in my highly polished, newly waxed bore seems like a disaster waiting to happen... so I use force with a polished pin and I smash the graphite into the bore surface as hard as I can without damaging the wheel or bore. Would a q-tip stem work to burnish graphite? Don't know, never tried it... I don't think I can get enough graphite in the bore during this process to burnish... so I stick to what works for me...
I like the idea of having a nice smooth slick bore so I use a q-tip stem and a bore polish. I use the largest q-tip stem that can run through the bore while turning it slowly with an electric drill that doesn't break off in the bore... and I do break some off and sometimes I can't get the SOB's back out and have to scrap the wheel... I do this because that q-tip stem applies the pressure to polish the bore and the more pressure the better. I don't think I can enlarge a bore with a "too large" q-tip stem....
Next I like the idea of a Teflon coated surface on top of that highly polished bore, so I apply Red Rocket or Legend or similar.... I buff it out... One thin coat and remove all excess wax with a fluffy pipe cleaner, tooth pick, piece of cotton cloth or whatever it takes to get the job done.
Next I am running graphite so I want a thin film of graphite in the bore to extend my number of runs.... I know that for me dropping graphite in the bore and tenderly moving it around with a pipe cleaner does nothing except get graphite all over the place.... and it doesn't stick in the bore this way.... would I use a special pointed cotton swab to burnish? well, no, not me... The thought of using a drill and spinning that thing in my highly polished, newly waxed bore seems like a disaster waiting to happen... so I use force with a polished pin and I smash the graphite into the bore surface as hard as I can without damaging the wheel or bore. Would a q-tip stem work to burnish graphite? Don't know, never tried it... I don't think I can get enough graphite in the bore during this process to burnish... so I stick to what works for me...
Sorry, to answer your question from my perspective....
You run your car with a waxed, burnished bore... First the car runs on pure graphite, great fast runs, next you get down to where the graphite is almost gone and you are running on a graphite/Teflon mix, great fast runs, next your are running on mostly Teflon. These last runs are not as fast as the previous, but they are faster than the guy who ran out of graphite 3 runs ago.... I don't think the graphite and wax mix really, it is one layer on another, the wax is just the last layer, maybe the last couple runs during finals.
You run your car with a waxed, burnished bore... First the car runs on pure graphite, great fast runs, next you get down to where the graphite is almost gone and you are running on a graphite/Teflon mix, great fast runs, next your are running on mostly Teflon. These last runs are not as fast as the previous, but they are faster than the guy who ran out of graphite 3 runs ago.... I don't think the graphite and wax mix really, it is one layer on another, the wax is just the last layer, maybe the last couple runs during finals.
5kidsracing is giving you super sound advice.
What he describes is a good way of "burnishing", there are many ways. You have to put physical force to get the graphite to adhere to the inside of the wheel, this only happens right when the graphite flake gets freshly crushed, so too little force does not do it. While you burnish in the graphite, you do not want to mess up your "wax" layer. TIP- the best waxes are the hardest waxes, they become harder than the plastic. Different folks will create different amounts of pressure with the different ways to burnish, so trying some out until you find one you can do may be required, but if you can copy what 5kids talks about, you will be way ahead.
What he describes is a good way of "burnishing", there are many ways. You have to put physical force to get the graphite to adhere to the inside of the wheel, this only happens right when the graphite flake gets freshly crushed, so too little force does not do it. While you burnish in the graphite, you do not want to mess up your "wax" layer. TIP- the best waxes are the hardest waxes, they become harder than the plastic. Different folks will create different amounts of pressure with the different ways to burnish, so trying some out until you find one you can do may be required, but if you can copy what 5kids talks about, you will be way ahead.
5KidsRacing said:
Thanks Scott for the info, I'm taking notes on everything. Good to see another Iowegian kicking some, I grew up on a small town (Neola) of about 1000, but I think they are down to 900 some now. Don't visit too much now.
I've played with a rod and pressure a little bit. I could actually get a hard build up at one end of the bore. Which was viewable with my 30x magnifying glass. When your burnishing do you continually look for that build up or just burnish for a bit on each wheel. And have you ever tried mixing the wax with graphite? Seems an interesting concept!
Thanks
Another thought on burnishing graphite into the wheel bore. It's something that I've done in the past with success. I'll take a polished rod smaller than the diameter of the wheel bore, I'm talking maybe .020" smaller. (You could use the axle if you need to) Insert the rod, pack the graphite in the bore, cap the ends as best you can, with a napkin or something similar to prevent the graphite from running out. This can only be done with a sturdy wheel like the stock BSA or a 2 gram wheel. Now, grab the rod and hold the "seals" in place, rotate the wheel against a soft flat firm surface, like a piece of leather on a table top, while applying downward pressure to burnish the graphite into the bore. Be careful not to apply too much pressure or wheel breakage will occur. It's worked for me with no issues other than speed gains. Have fun and start burnishing today!
pony express said:
Oooh yes, the Doctor.... solid with theory and equations, not so much with reality.
GravityX said:
You know GravityX, thats a great concept! I have a pollished rod, I think I'll go find a couple of Nylon washers and epoxy one side! Or just hold both with your thumbs!
G
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Red Rocket, Legend, BlackFire, etc... are good online purchase waxes...
With Graphite standard Liquid Glass will work. You should be able to find it at a local auto parts store... like Autozone or something...
With Graphite standard Liquid Glass will work. You should be able to find it at a local auto parts store... like Autozone or something...
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