Track gaps #%$@

[CH3NO2]

Trying to get this test track fitted together, what a night of frustration.
Are these section gaps normal before leveling and sanding the sections?
I feel like I need to remove the dowels pins and hand sand the ends of the tracks and re install the dowels.
I used the file on any burs that I felt and the dowels do not feel mushroomed.
But the sections seemed really hard to fit together, is it just because it is all new and the dowel holes need relaxed a bit?

 

[Rocket car]

They are all like that in the beginning. I spent about 20hrs sanding and polishing my track. Loosen(don't take apart) all the different sections and press each lane(the long way) together separately. That will close all the gaps. Then tighten the bars that hold the lanes together. Use binder clips to keep the 7ft sections together.

 

[bracketracer]

You mentioned that you haven't leveled it yet? If the joint is at a high spot you will get at gap because the bottom edge of the track will butt first. If it's at a low spot then the tips of the guide rails will touch first an make a small gap. I'd at least roughly level it where you're going to set it up and see what needs work.

Rocket is right on about loosening the braces underneath and pushing one lane together at a time.

 

[CH3NO2]

It was getting late last night and crazy started to seep in my head and I was starting to think about just TIG welding them and sanding them back flat.

 

[CH3NO2]

I worked on it some more after work (4 hours) and now they look like this.
I just checked with a level at every section before and after the joint and everything looks good.
Am I almost there yet? I have a feeling not quite yet.

 

[bracketracer]

Almost there! Are you going to give it the full polish also?

 

[CH3NO2]

Almost there! Are you going to give it the full polish also?

Yes, that is the plan after I get the gaps pulled in all the way.
I have all the sandpaper in hand from 120,150,180,240,400,600,800,1000,1200,2000,2500 & 3000 grit.
Every section connection joint needs some sanding / leveling to be mated flush, I couldn't imagine running a car down it as is.

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Yes, that is the plan after I get the gaps pulled in all the way.
I have all the sandpaper in hand from 120,150,180,240,400,600,800,1000,1200,2000,2500 & 3000 grit.
Every section connection joint needs some sanding / leveling to be mated flush, I couldn't imagine running a car down it as is.

I am in for the same thing ...question for you, did you use each one of those grits or did you skip a few ? I am just trying to learn from your experience ...any pointers that you have would be VERY welcome!

 

[CH3NO2]

I am in for the same thing ...question for you, did you use each one of those grits or did you skip a few ? I am just trying to learn from your experience ...any pointers that you have would be VERY welcome!

Oh, you don't want any pointers from me, I am just in the process of asking for guidance myself. I would ask the Pros I am still just pulling my hair out.
I am just following Bulldogs video of sanding the track found here at this thread http://pinewoodderbyonline.com/threads/sanding-joints-on-a-best-track.4209/

If you can find a track with it all done already for sale locally, I would jump on it. You can not put a dollar amount on the time and effort it takes to get one of these tracks aligned and sanding correctly. Where are you located at?

 

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Oh, you don't want any pointers from me, I am just in the process of asking for guidance myself. I would ask the Pros I am still just pulling my hair out.
I am just following Bulldogs video of sanding the track found here at this thread http://pinewoodderbyonline.com/threads/sanding-joints-on-a-best-track.4209/

If you can find a track with it all done already for sale locally, I would jump on it. You can not put a dollar amount on the time and effort it takes to get one of these tracks aligned and sanding correctly. Where are you located at?

I will take any advice I can get. I too have seen Bulldogs video and planned on using that as a starting point. Depending on how large the gaps are, I have a 45 degree carbide cutter that I may use to chamfer into the adjoining dowel pin holes a 1/16" or less.

Are you using any clamps to try and pull the section together? Something like a Quick Grips clamp or a C-clamp?

I also plan on using the 4 dowels per section on a 2 lane track. I am guessing that using that many dowels is exacerbating the issue. The local Scout track here with 8 lanes only has two dowels per section. However, I think that is why the joints are not the best.

 

[Troy Taylor]

Does the Freedom track have the same issue? I know it cannot be polished, but how hard is it to align?

 

[CH3NO2]

I will take any advice I can get. I too have seen Bulldogs video and planned on using that as a starting point. Depending on how large the gaps are, I have a 45 degree carbide cutter that I may use to chamfer into the adjoining dowel pin holes a 1/16" or less.

Are you using any clamps to try and pull the section together? Something like a Quick Grips clamp or a C-clamp?

I also plan on using the 4 dowels per section on a 2 lane track. I am guessing that using that many dowels is exacerbating the issue. The local Scout track here with 8 lanes only has two dowels per section. However, I think that is why the joints are not the best.

I am using channel locks to squeeze the L brackets together, and the the binder clips to hold together the sections after.
The 2 dowel pins per track is not the problem on a just 2 lane track either I believe.
If I could do one thing over it would to be to make sure that the smooth portion of the dowel pins slide into the holes up to the knurled part, then tap them in with the soft hammer. I believe the holes were too tight for the dowel pins and that is were my mistake was. The gaps are still better than most Cub scout tracks. I am just trying to get them closer before I sand the joints.