veneer

[bracketracer]

I know this is a few months old, but do the people that use monokote use it as a veneer or use it as a cover? Last year we used a veneer and put the monokote on top of the veneer, but I was thinking about just using the monokote.

I used the Monokote trim sheet (the thin decal-type material) over a wood body and I used the Ultracote (the stuff you have to apply with an iron and shrink) to cover cavities in a body. Both worked well. I like the trim sheet because I can use it instead of paint so there's no fumes in the shop when it's too cold outside to paint. That iron-on stuff has a bit of a learning curve to get it on. I ended up applying it with a clothes iron but I had to put a thin towel between the iron and the Ultracote to get it to stick without melting. Then I shrunk it with a heat gun. Took three tries the first time I used it to get it somewhat smooth. I was using the Ultracote lite so the regular Ultracote may be easier.

 

[resullivan]

I bought the monokote iron. It took me a few tries as well. I am going to get a heat gun this year and try and cover the entire car including fenders in one seemless wrap. Not sure if I will be able to do it, but it will be fun trying.

 

[Guest]

I bought the monokote iron. It took me a few tries as well. I am going to get a heat gun this year and try and cover the entire car including fenders in one seemless wrap. Not sure if I will be able to do it, but it will be fun trying.

Actually it won't be fun trying............you will be frustrated like never before!

 

[bracketracer]

I bought the monokote iron. It took me a few tries as well. I am going to get a heat gun this year and try and cover the entire car including fenders in one seemless wrap. Not sure if I will be able to do it, but it will be fun trying.

Actually it won't be fun trying............you will be frustrated like never before!

If he bought the iron with the sock it won't be that bad. Using a clothes iron with a towel worked but you have to keep lifting the towel to check your work. The iron was only about twenty dollars at the hobby shop but I wasn't that sure I wanted to use more of the stuff. The more I lighten the bodies the more I think it doesn't matter all that much! lol!

 

[OPARENNEN]

I have been using MonoKote and Econokote for 18 months now. In fact that is all I use now.
It took practice, but now I am able to iron it on so that it is tight as a drum.
the Mono comes in rolls of every possible color. Each roll is $14, but there is enough there to do more than a hundred cars.
But I use the Iron sold at model airplane shops. http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr2100.html is one example. I think it cost about $24.
It has a Teflon bottom, and a "boot cloth" that you put on it like a stocking, which eliminates the melting problem.
Before ironing it on, I cut a piece of Mono at least twice as large as I need, then I tape the unused portion from the rear, to the point that before ironing, it is already taut (tight).
If you need help, we would probably have to talk on the phone. PM me if you want.

 

[bracketracer]

I have been using MonoKote and Econokote for 18 months now. In fact that is all I use now.
It took practice, but now I am able to iron it on so that it is tight as a drum.
the Mono comes in rolls of every possible color. Each roll is $14, but there is enough there to do more than a hundred cars.
But I use the Iron sold at model airplane shops. http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr2100.html is one example. I think it cost about $24.
It has a Teflon bottom, and a "boot cloth" that you put on it like a stocking, which eliminates the melting problem.
Before ironing it on, I cut a piece of Mono at least twice as large as I need, then I tape the unused portion from the rear, to the point that before ironing, it is already taut (tight).
If you need help, we would probably have to talk on the phone. PM me if you want.

Good idea! I only left mine a couple inches oversized so I could pull it tight but I didn't have enough hands to pull it both ways and iron it too! I'll try that next time!

 

[resullivan]

Not the best pictures, but this was the results from last year. I bought the roll, so I had pleanty to work with.

 

[resullivan]

And while I am posting pictures this car had a 1/32 balsa veneer as you can see in this picture. This year, I got a 1/64 beachwood or something like that for the veneer.

 

[Guest]

Hey Resullivan,

Nice Monokote layer. When I tried it out it looked like a crumpled sock.

One idea I had for doing Monokote in one piece, fenders and all, is:

to cover the car with masking tape, and cut off all the excess. This might give you a sense for where relief cuts, or darts need to be.

Peel off the tape and use it as a template for the relief cuts and the oversized piece. Not sure if it will work entirely due to the need to oversize the material but...

Are the tiny holes near the axles in the second picture for set screws, or glue?

 

[resullivan]

It is supose to help make it easier to put the axles in. Not really sure if it does or not.

 

[Nics Dad]

Resullivan, do the holes keep the air from compressing, basically giving the air some place to go when pushing the axles in? You could probably thread the hole and put in a hollow set screw- kill two birds with one stone. I like your cars- nice work!

 

[resullivan]

That is the basic idea. I guess it is one of those things you see someone else do, and since it isn't that hard you do as well not sure if it works.