Somebody please help! I decided tio try derby dust and their polishing process for the wheel bores. Didn't have a track to break them in as they suggest so lightly spun th em using a wheel mandrel chucked into a drill applying light pressure to each wheel for 1 minor less. Pulled the axles to check out the bores and th ey were scratched al to pieces . Don't have time to order any more polishing stuff for the bores. 2nd challenge , when using the pro axle press, I hammered the nail end too hard and now they are flat! I m concerned that I will not be able to get hold of them to adjust them. Race is Sat and will be gone all day Friday. Really. Freakin out, it's my sons last race as a weblo and we have done well every year and don't wont to let him down. Lastly, I always doubt my self in the amount of bend for the axles, I currently have 1.5 on DFW and 2.5 on all others, RR .49 ft best track, com at 3/4 without wheels and axles, positive or negative camber on DFW, rear wheels. All help will be greatly appreciated guys ...really. Sweatin in January in Alabama. R West
What have I done???
- Thread starter Randy West
- Start date
measure the com with the wheels installed, that is going to change things from 3/4. Did you drill axle holes? If so them you should be able to pull the axles out enough to grab the if you just tug on the wheel. Thats what i did.
1st, stay clear of treadmill man...
2nd, If you have a 2000 grit sandpaper cut a small piece and roll it so it will fit into the wheel bore. Use plain paper if you don't have 2000 grit. Once it is rolled up and in the wheel bore chuck one end up in a hand drill and spin slowly. This will repolish them. You can do it again with graphite mixed in the bore and it will burnish the graphite in.
3rd, NEVER USE BENT AXLES IN THE REAR. Get some straight axles and press them into the slots at a slight angle giving the wheels a cant. Use a 2.5 axle for the front in a positive cant and steer the car.
You are in the right place now! Sorry you had to learn the hard way.
2nd, If you have a 2000 grit sandpaper cut a small piece and roll it so it will fit into the wheel bore. Use plain paper if you don't have 2000 grit. Once it is rolled up and in the wheel bore chuck one end up in a hand drill and spin slowly. This will repolish them. You can do it again with graphite mixed in the bore and it will burnish the graphite in.
3rd, NEVER USE BENT AXLES IN THE REAR. Get some straight axles and press them into the slots at a slight angle giving the wheels a cant. Use a 2.5 axle for the front in a positive cant and steer the car.
You are in the right place now! Sorry you had to learn the hard way.
Randy West said:
If you must use the slots, fill them with wood using popsicle stick or bamboo slivers from Michaels and wood glue. After they dry, sand the bottom of the car. If you do not have the DDH Silver Bullet, clamp the body to a full pine block and use a 1/16-1/8 drill bit, depending on amount of cant you want,on the side of the block and drill the new axle holes with a #44 bit at a cant, using the same instructions video on youtube for Jewkes Block/DDH Silver Bullet. Using straight axles, insert with a.025-030 wheel gap. I used this method for rear canting in the old days before I owned the Block & Silver Bullet. This whole process should only take a few hours including drying time for the glue. You should have pleanty of time by Friday.
DerbyDad4Hire said:1st, stay clear of treadmill man...
WHAT?????
I bought a treadmill last year to test the wheels and break them in. Am I screwing something up and or making the car slow?
At the end of the day for what it's worth, I also bought some derbydust products last year, and this year I bought other products because I didn't want to use the derbydust graphite again ( did the packing etc...)
Treadmill is not a good thing. I can promise you that everyone here at the NPWDRL DOES NOT use a treadmill to break-in their cars. Do a search for graphite here on this site and you will come across a better way to do things. Read and absorb the information.
Chief said:
Ha, I have three word documents open while I read so I can copy and paste as I get ready for this weekend's build.
My next goal is to learn how to bend the axles, not immediately finding how (hopefully I don't need a specialized tool as I don't have time for this year's race. For next year I will though)
1reason said:
A PWD racer only needs one bent axle IMHO. On the DFW. If you have a smooth jaw vise, a fairly dull flat blade screwdriver, and a hammer you have all the tools you need to bend an axle. The Goatboy bender makes it easier, but you can get by without it if you need to.
bracketracer said:
In the event you do not have a smooth jawed vise you can use two blocks of wood in the vise to protect the axle. And as BracketRacer stated you only need one bent axle and that is at the DFW location to adjust steer when tuning.
G
Guest
Guest
DerbyDad4Hire said:1st, stay clear of treadmill man...
2nd, If you have a 2000 grit sandpaper cut a small piece and roll it so it will fit into the wheel bore. Use plain paper if you don't have 2000 grit. Once it is rolled up and in the wheel bore chuck one end up in a hand drill and spin slowly. This will repolish them. You can do it again with graphite mixed in the bore and it will burnish the graphite in.
3rd, NEVER USE BENT AXLES IN THE REAR. Get some straight axles and press them into the slots at a slight angle giving the wheels a cant. Use a 2.5 axle for the front in a positive cant and steer the car.
You are in the right place now! Sorry you had to learn the hard way.
Randy West said:
You can tell John has been faced with these types of questions in the past.
He is all calm and cool about it.
I would be like: Oh man! where do we begin? No offense 1 Reason. There is just so much info out there that is incorrect. You are in good hands now though.
bracketracer said:
Ok, cool thanks. I was already at the point of not thinking I would try to bend anything else and order the silver bullet for next year's race (seems that's what I'm reading about the most). Bummer, I just received a new jig to align the wheels that has all four wheels in one piece (upgrade from my Revel two holes and move it over setup
Thanks again!
laserman said:DerbyDad4Hire said:1st, stay clear of treadmill man...
2nd, If you have a 2000 grit sandpaper cut a small piece and roll it so it will fit into the wheel bore. Use plain paper if you don't have 2000 grit. Once it is rolled up and in the wheel bore chuck one end up in a hand drill and spin slowly. This will repolish them. You can do it again with graphite mixed in the bore and it will burnish the graphite in.
3rd, NEVER USE BENT AXLES IN THE REAR. Get some straight axles and press them into the slots at a slight angle giving the wheels a cant. Use a 2.5 axle for the front in a positive cant and steer the car.
You are in the right place now! Sorry you had to learn the hard way.
Randy West said:
You can tell John has been faced with these types of questions in the past.
He is all calm and cool about it.
I would be like: Oh man! where do we begin? No offense 1 Reason. There is just so much info out there that is incorrect. You are in good hands now though.
Yeah, feeling much better since I found this gold mine of a forum
Here's how I find threads I want to read again:
I have a "Pinewood Derby" folder in my Bookmarks.
Find a thread with good info I want to see again, bookmark it to that folder, and maybe rename it so I'll know why I saved it. Like "Wheel bore prep technique", or something like that. That way, I don't have to worry about cutting and pasting stuff.
I have a "Pinewood Derby" folder in my Bookmarks.
Find a thread with good info I want to see again, bookmark it to that folder, and maybe rename it so I'll know why I saved it. Like "Wheel bore prep technique", or something like that. That way, I don't have to worry about cutting and pasting stuff.
G
Guest
Guest
Hey fellas,
Just wondering.
In the Derby Dad video he like to use a Dremel to make a notch at the area where the Axle is bent.
(1 Reason- Just order the video. You will probably save yourself about 50 hours scouring the forum for bits and pieces of it and still not be sure if you have all the info., at 50 cents/ hour it is worth every penny and more.)
On second thought, you might be able to get away without it if you are not gonna league race. The oil secret is a big part of it, but there are other good tips.
-What about tossing it in the vise and filing it on all sides? It seems a little more time consuming. I say that in that it would be a good thing for the first time doing it.
Thanks,
Just wondering.
In the Derby Dad video he like to use a Dremel to make a notch at the area where the Axle is bent.
(1 Reason- Just order the video. You will probably save yourself about 50 hours scouring the forum for bits and pieces of it and still not be sure if you have all the info., at 50 cents/ hour it is worth every penny and more.)
On second thought, you might be able to get away without it if you are not gonna league race. The oil secret is a big part of it, but there are other good tips.
-What about tossing it in the vise and filing it on all sides? It seems a little more time consuming. I say that in that it would be a good thing for the first time doing it.
Thanks,
