Wheel / Axle Prep

Mar 18, 2013
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Ok, so I plan on in the future to get the kits from DD4H, but in the mean time we have a couple of races coming up. The first race will be mid america and the second will be our council race (both graphite only). I will be sending the scout car that came in second at district to mid america, and will have to build a new one for council (no canted wheels and all 4 must touch). We don't have a test track, so I thought I would ask you guys for advice. We don't really have the time to order anything at this point, so all products must be local. Right now I have some Turtle Wax Chrome & Metal Polish as well as some Meguiar's GoldGlass Carnauba Plus premium liquid wax (this product says "KEEP OFF RUBBER, VINYL, & NON-PAINTED SURFACES).

Initially I was planning on using the metal polish on the axles and the wax on the wheels, but I am not sure about the warning. I will test on some extra wheels before putting on the good wheels. I guess my question is do you think I should polish then wax the axles, just polish, just wax the wheels (saying that it is safe), or polish and wax? Is there a local product that may be better? I am not asking for anyone to reveal any big secret, but any help would be appreciated.
 
So spirit posted in the other thread that I asked about this wax:

I have never had any luck with any wax that says Carnauba. But have used Meguiar synthetic with success. If you can find Liquid Glass would be a better sub however. I have heard from other guys to stay away from Carnauba type waxes......SPIRIT......

What kind of things should I be looking for in a wax?
 
@DD4H,

Just looked, not sure I can justify dropping $40 right now. I still plan on getting it just not now.

@bracketracer,

That is probably right. I just tried it on a junk wheel and I didn't see any ill effect.
 
Resullivan: I always wax my graphite axles. I burnish the graphite into the wax after waxing. I use ski wax, but if you don't have time to get ski wax one othe others you have sounds ok. John's red rocket polish is great with graphite on the wheels. If you won't get it in time just wax the wheels and burnish the graphite into the bore with a pipe cleaner. I use molybdenum before graphite on both the axles and wheels. It comes in a powder form. Burnish it and blow out the excess. You don't want to leave excess molybdenum in the bore. Dr. Jobe uses graphite and silicone on both the wheels and axles. I don't know if your rules allow for silicone though. When I tried it it was pretty good. I just sprayed the silicone onto the table top and let dry. I then saturated the silicone left behind with graphite and use that mixture to polish the axles and wheel bores.
 
@DD4H,

Just looked, not sure I can justify dropping $40 right now. I still plan on getting it just not now.

Aren't credit cards for emergencies just like this?
idea
 
Welcome back, Jim! Haven't seen you since you parted with your paint equipment. And posting on a Sunday morning no less! Good to see your avatar make an appearance again! [GO BUCS!]
ninjarabbi1997 said:
@DD4H,

Just looked, not sure I can justify dropping $40 right now. I still plan on getting it just not now.

Aren't credit cards for emergencies just like this?
idea
 
I used 3M Scratch Remover and the 3M Synthetic Polish once. It's good, not enough for NPWDRL, but still pretty good.
Go to Hobby Lobby and get their Sandpaper Kit, it goes in several grades up to 12,000. Then do axles like John's method. I.e. various wet sanding, the spray with Jig-a-loo (Ace Hardware), and you should be good.

Above is only an alternative. If you have time, get all of the goods from DD4H, and have him overnight them to you.
 
Funny you mention that because I did pick that kit up from hobby lobby. I have Jig-a-loo but my understanding is that is for oil only correct?
 
Ok, so far I have took the scout car apart and cleaned wheels and axles with rubbing alcohol. I then re-sanded the axles (these are axles from the kit) starting at 600, 1000, 2000, 4000, 6000, 12000. I then used the metal polish on them and then the wax listed above. I then used a micro-gloss liquid abrasive that I had bought a while ago with a kit on a fluffy pipe cleaner and ran it in the bore of all the wheels. If nothing else this helped clean any graphite I missed from the bores. I am letting the wheels dry then I am going to use the wax in the bores. I will then burnish graphite in the bores and the axles then realign. I am really curious how this car will do.