For you guys that have raced with graphite. Do you reprep your wheels? If yes do you reprep just like you would for a set of oil wheels like in the DD4H dvd? Thanks Craig
Wheel Reprep
- Thread starter Eliminator Racing
- Start date
Im certainly no expert, but if I had to reprep,
id follow what i believe others here in the forum recommend which is to redo the last red rocket steps for the bores and clean off the axels (no spraying of anything on it) and then re-graphite.
I do also repeat the burnishing of graphite into the body around the axels, as well as on the inner and outer bore surface, and the inner surface of the wheel tread. I also try to burnish graphite into the bore with a fluffy pipe cleaner or soft bore applicator....(ive read other posts that people do this at the same time as the red rocket polish but I havent tried that yet)
then its mate, lube, spin and send in and hope and pray for the best.
W
id follow what i believe others here in the forum recommend which is to redo the last red rocket steps for the bores and clean off the axels (no spraying of anything on it) and then re-graphite.
I do also repeat the burnishing of graphite into the body around the axels, as well as on the inner and outer bore surface, and the inner surface of the wheel tread. I also try to burnish graphite into the bore with a fluffy pipe cleaner or soft bore applicator....(ive read other posts that people do this at the same time as the red rocket polish but I havent tried that yet)
then its mate, lube, spin and send in and hope and pray for the best.
W
How do you "squirt" graphite into the bore after wheels installed? With the slot bsa cars no trick, I assume you've done some drilled bodies?
the only time I use graphite is with the pack races, which for us says to use graphite and has a rule about having slots and the axel in the slot, as such its not too hard.
Otherwise, my current drilled holes (no slots) are only for NPWDRL races and I use oil for those so that is a non issue.
However, my impression is the only ways would be:
1. Since I try not to glue my axels in anymore (or if I thought it might come loose I only use a small drop of wood glue anyway so its pretty easy to remove the wheel and axel) I can remove, regraphite, and then reinstall.
2. if I couldnt or didnt want to remove the axel and wheel I guess the only way would be to drop/squirt graphite between the wheel and body of car (I agree its tough especially if you leave only 1/32" gap) as best as you can and then tilt the car and tap in the graphite so it falls into the bore, and then do the same on the outside wheel by doing your best to squirt it just under the head of the nail and tap it in and then spin....
I think I read somewhere on other sites about drilling/shaving what amounts to as a small grove on the underside of the car over the axels to allow you to better fit the tip of your graphite squirt bottle into the area between your axel and body but I never really tried that or know how that works, or it applies to slotted or non slotted cars or both.
I cant think of any other way to do it....and its certainly messy!
W
Otherwise, my current drilled holes (no slots) are only for NPWDRL races and I use oil for those so that is a non issue.
However, my impression is the only ways would be:
1. Since I try not to glue my axels in anymore (or if I thought it might come loose I only use a small drop of wood glue anyway so its pretty easy to remove the wheel and axel) I can remove, regraphite, and then reinstall.
2. if I couldnt or didnt want to remove the axel and wheel I guess the only way would be to drop/squirt graphite between the wheel and body of car (I agree its tough especially if you leave only 1/32" gap) as best as you can and then tilt the car and tap in the graphite so it falls into the bore, and then do the same on the outside wheel by doing your best to squirt it just under the head of the nail and tap it in and then spin....
I think I read somewhere on other sites about drilling/shaving what amounts to as a small grove on the underside of the car over the axels to allow you to better fit the tip of your graphite squirt bottle into the area between your axel and body but I never really tried that or know how that works, or it applies to slotted or non slotted cars or both.
I cant think of any other way to do it....and its certainly messy!
W
One way I've done it, and it's pretty labor intensive, is to use a fine point paint brush from one of the craft stores. Tap wheel and spin after each application to distribute in the wheel bore. Still pretty messy. I've also purchased from a hobby shop but still haven't used, what looks like a plastic hypodermic plunger with a screw on tip that's narrower than the tip that's on the graphite bottle/tube.
If your car gets too much graphite on the paint then use some oil and lightly wipe away the graphite. I've used several types of oil in the past. Krytox is safe. Mineral oil is safe. The others are safe as long as you don't get too much on the wheels. Just wipe off as much as you can. It works pretty good unless you have rubbed the graphite into the paint. It works then as well, but takes more work.
I think it depends on your set up and if you glued your axles in. If you spent a ton of time tuning your car without many runs on it and you think it sustaind no damage I would just blow the wheel bores out with clean air and puff more graphite back in by tilting your car and applying it under the axle head and bore then do the inside and spin. Also clean your treads when done. However, if your car has minimal tuning and or might have sustained damage or an unintentional detune during the race I would re prep by removing all wheels, blow them clean and reburnish more graphite in. Not sure you would get enough graphite out of the bores after stripping the wax, and in that case the wax might not adhere enough due to graphite. But maybe I`m wrong.
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