27.1 degrees
- Thread starter 561 racing
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561, Very simple setup here.
Someday I will invest in a digital angle finder but until then this was laying around in the shop already paid for. For the actual setup I use a 3' level- the torpedo level is just in the picture to get the basic idea. Now I'm sure the +/- level of accuracy could be greatly improved upon but I'm not at that level yet where I feel it really makes a difference.
Check out the foam between the ESS, also how the dead batteries are used to stabilize and firm it up. Still need to do the Bracket Racer shoulder bolt mod as my setup is a bit lacking in that area. If you expand the pic you can see my cheap version of the Owens bearing mod- I use teflon sliding on delrin and the arm of the solenoid has less than a 1/2" throw to dampen it up.My pins fall just barely below the cutouts thanmks to the 5K method- thanks everyone the the tips on pimpin this puppy out.
Someday I will invest in a digital angle finder but until then this was laying around in the shop already paid for. For the actual setup I use a 3' level- the torpedo level is just in the picture to get the basic idea. Now I'm sure the +/- level of accuracy could be greatly improved upon but I'm not at that level yet where I feel it really makes a difference.
Check out the foam between the ESS, also how the dead batteries are used to stabilize and firm it up. Still need to do the Bracket Racer shoulder bolt mod as my setup is a bit lacking in that area. If you expand the pic you can see my cheap version of the Owens bearing mod- I use teflon sliding on delrin and the arm of the solenoid has less than a 1/2" throw to dampen it up.My pins fall just barely below the cutouts thanmks to the 5K method- thanks everyone the the tips on pimpin this puppy out.
I just use a digital level. Here is a pic of the one I use. Got it form Home Depot. I think it was about 60 bucks:
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I thought I heard whisperings of a wireless starter replacing the 50' cord but I might have been dreaming. Now that would be slick if one were put out on the market!
Corvid Racing said:
Yeah. That should be implemented soon.
BTW, thats a good idea to weight the start section down. A cooler of Milwaukee's Best does the trick too, right Rocket Car? LOL
What's the 5K tip on the pins falling just below the cutouts? Don't think I've seen that one.
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Thanks Zeebs, good idea on the cooler too haha I was going to use Icemans trick of a long board and bolting the base to that at firsta. Then I thought about using marine fast cure 5200 to adhere 2x4" straight to the concrete and using lag bolts but that's a bit permanent. The batteries keep it nice and stable from the top down, I'm able to achieve runs consistent to the thousandth but when I attempt to tune I get greedy and have trouble finding the initial speed. That's for another day though.
It's been awhile since I read that post so I'm going from a hazy memory but it consisted of stretching or replacing the spring so the gate falls down in time but doesn't snap back. The bolts were also shortened so no contact was made with the track. Everything is adjusted so that when the pins have fallen, the pins are just barely under the cutouts, the pins height was also shortened a bit. When it is in action there is no sudden jerks or jolts and it is very quiet. One thing I did was use the yellow foam you see in the picture between the ESS and the track, I wadded a piece up the size of a grape and slid it down as far into the ESS as I could so the solenoid rod was dampened It really seemed to help and the electromagnet works just as well.
It's been awhile since I read that post so I'm going from a hazy memory but it consisted of stretching or replacing the spring so the gate falls down in time but doesn't snap back. The bolts were also shortened so no contact was made with the track. Everything is adjusted so that when the pins have fallen, the pins are just barely under the cutouts, the pins height was also shortened a bit. When it is in action there is no sudden jerks or jolts and it is very quiet. One thing I did was use the yellow foam you see in the picture between the ESS and the track, I wadded a piece up the size of a grape and slid it down as far into the ESS as I could so the solenoid rod was dampened It really seemed to help and the electromagnet works just as well.
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My stop section is 10' and I like the straight on birds eye view. I will actually lay flat on my belly , close one eye, put my finger on the track to sense the MVD and hold my breath when they run, even my cat knows it's time to chill out when dads running cars. The provided BestTrack stop section was not long enough so I built a wooden extension for it.
Ah, that explains it!
You know, you could probably repurpose a remote security module(the thing that receives the signal from the key fob) from a car if you wanted to go wireless. Just need to go junkyard scrounging for a module and a fob. If you pirate one from a Ford I can hook you up with a wiring diagram. You already have the battery there for power it looks like.
You know, you could probably repurpose a remote security module(the thing that receives the signal from the key fob) from a car if you wanted to go wireless. Just need to go junkyard scrounging for a module and a fob. If you pirate one from a Ford I can hook you up with a wiring diagram. You already have the battery there for power it looks like.
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I like the way you think- that's be a heck of a lot cheaper too. I could have one batt. for the remote start and the other for the cd car audio deck that's getting installed somewhere in that mess. Little Bose speakers w/ surround sound. The cooler could be 12 volt operated too too keep refreshments chilled. I like where this is going.
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Here's the stop section I made last fall, Still need to buy a roll of no skid rubber foam tape but til then these little glue dots stop cars dead in their tracks and there is no little rubber particle pieces that I get from the existing tape in use.
I'm forced to use the outdoors for the final section and the stop section. The timer was actually bought off of LA Sound after his rise to the top- he gave me a smokin' deal and it still works like it did the day I got it. It's enthralling for me when I think about the cars that were clocked by this timer- true relics of the past.
I'm forced to use the outdoors for the final section and the stop section. The timer was actually bought off of LA Sound after his rise to the top- he gave me a smokin' deal and it still works like it did the day I got it. It's enthralling for me when I think about the cars that were clocked by this timer- true relics of the past.
Corvid Racing said:Here's the stop section I made last fall, Still need to buy a roll of no skid rubber foam tape but til then these little glue dots stop cars dead in their tracks and there is no little rubber particle pieces that I get from the existing tape in use.
I'm forced to use the outdoors for the final section and the stop section. The timer was actually bought off of LA Sound after his rise to the top- he gave me a smokin' deal and it still works like it did the day I got it. It's enthralling for me when I think about the cars that were clocked by this timer- true relics of the past.
Corvid that is pretty Sweet!
FYI I found two things when I took over the track for my troop.
1. Old rubber that was stored in a garage doesn't stop worth a darn.
2. you can buy new rubber from best track.
Note: my cars wouldn't stop in one section before now they stop in the first section with new rubber. I believe being old or stored in freezing temp the rubber just gets harder.
If the rubber gets dusty it gets slick too. I keep mine covered with a towel when it's set up but not in use to keep it clean.
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Thanks Shawn and GX for the pointers,
I'm wondering if there is a more suitable product available that will stop the cars without losing its adhesivitic nature and refrain from shedding particulates. The glue dots still take about 6' to come to a stop and in that time I'm paranoid that the wheels are being dragged against the sides of the stop rails.
I'm wondering if there is a more suitable product available that will stop the cars without losing its adhesivitic nature and refrain from shedding particulates. The glue dots still take about 6' to come to a stop and in that time I'm paranoid that the wheels are being dragged against the sides of the stop rails.
I would use that non slip stuff that comes in a roll at any hardware store. It's for under cushions and for in drawers of RV's so that thing don't move around. Looks like a bunch of bubbles stuck together.
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