Anxiously awaiting.

All that said, I have never actually used the Pinewood Pro drilling jig, so if somebody has, and have had good results, please let me know! :)

I have used the older version (straight holes only) for the last two years, and at the Cub Scout Pack level it seems sufficient. If your block of wood is square, it seems to work pretty darn good, though I haven't tested it with pin gauges and 1-2-3 blocks yet. It is critical that you fit the sides, tighten the screws, and clamp the bottom. There is some slop when it is loose, but when it is tight and clamped down it feels pretty good.

I use it with a pin vise for the drill bit, to minimize wear. The nice thing is that this one is anodized, so wear, when it happens, will be apparent.

That said, there is a tiny bit of slop between the bit and the hole, and there is slop in the sliding mechanism that could result in misalignment if it isn't tight on the block when tightened down. Additionally, I've only used it with bent axles, where I had to tune the back end anyhow and could work out any minor misalignment by turning the axles.

I agree, though, this is not a pro-level tool by any stretch of the imagination, but it is better than nothing for folks without a good drill press or better jig, and the price point is pretty affordable.

That clear jig, though...we wantssssssss it.
 
I have used the older version (straight holes only) for the last two years, and at the Cub Scout Pack level it seems sufficient. If your block of wood is square, it seems to work pretty darn good, though I haven't tested it with pin gauges and 1-2-3 blocks yet. It is critical that you fit the sides, tighten the screws, and clamp the bottom. There is some slop when it is loose, but when it is tight and clamped down it feels pretty good.

I use it with a pin vise for the drill bit, to minimize wear. The nice thing is that this one is anodized, so wear, when it happens, will be apparent.

That said, there is a tiny bit of slop between the bit and the hole, and there is slop in the sliding mechanism that could result in misalignment if it isn't tight on the block when tightened down. Additionally, I've only used it with bent axles, where I had to tune the back end anyhow and could work out any minor misalignment by turning the axles.

I agree, though, this is not a pro-level tool by any stretch of the imagination, but it is better than nothing for folks without a good drill press or better jig, and the price point is pretty affordable.

That clear jig, though...we wantssssssss it.


My clear jig should be here today. I’m excited to see it in action. The guy selling them responded within minutes of my email and shipped it within the hr of me placing the order.
 
Just got home from work and my clear jig is here! Of course the first thing I did was get a block and try it out. Perfect alignment on the first attempt. It’s not as pretty and a shiny aluminum one but it seems to do the trick. No more bent axles for this guy.
 
Where did you order yours from? Curious as I am looking to buy a jig... this horrible freight drill press isn't accurate enough for a solid drill on its own.

-Kyle
 
I emailed Jeffrey Rohrer ([email protected]) about a #44 version. He said that a few people have asked for one and he is making them. He said they will be ready in a few weeks.
That will be perfect for my Scouts. Thanks for the tip!
Now I need to find where to get some good #44 pin gauges and maybe two 123 blocks.
 
I emailed Jeffrey Rohrer ([email protected]) about a #44 version. He said that a few people have asked for one and he is making them. He said they will be ready in a few weeks.
That will be perfect for my Scouts. Thanks for the tip!
Now I need to find where to get some good #44 pin gauges and maybe two 123 blocks.
McMaster Carr has #44 pin gauges for less than $4.00 each. They are a bit expensive on the 123 blocks, though - Amazon seems to be a better bet there.
 
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Thank you ironband. I bought pairs of the 0.089 and 0.086 ZZ plug wear recognition go gauge ones. (Hoping those were the right ones)
 
Any of the fast pros care to chime in with their results with the clear jig? I've only used the Goat Boy and the silver bullet pro. I'm also interested in the 2.5 degree suggestion.
I have checked it with pins and it seems accurate to me (e.g. the pins meet in the middle for the 3 degree cant and go out of one hole and into the opposing hole for the 0 degree); however, I have never built a car using it. Bought it for a fellow racer...