Some of the newer racers might benefit from some basic axle prep tips. Whether you use sand paper or polishing compounds the cross-hatching technique produces a finer finish and the silicone sticks to it better. I'm not a machinist, so some of the machinist might want to add their input on axle prep for the new racers.
axle prep
- Thread starter pony express
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I think you'll get a better finish if during the polishing process a wet sanding technique is employed as opposed to using dry sandpaper alone. The wet sanding technique provides a superior finish and is faster. Spinning the axle about 15k works best for me. When cutting the groove in the axle, I do this before the polishing process, this way the groove gets polished too. You just never know if that axle may scratch the bore when inserted, just a precaution.
I think that's how they used to polish and port the heads on cars to achieve a super smooth suface. What I try to do is chuck the axle in the drill press and then polish it up and down as it rotates. That gives the hatch-crossing action. It's supposed to be smoother and the silicone should stick better. I think if you google cross-hatching polishing it might give more details. I'm not a machinist. I'm always looking for a better system. If I find something I don't mind telling the fellow fanatics out there.
I start at 1000 grit and go to 12000 grit wet sand paper then finish with DD4H's axle polish. When they are finished the axles have a mirrow finish.
Typically, in reference to an engine, cross hatching is found on the cylinder walls. It serves a few purposes and one of which is to help break-in the piston rings upon initial start up. After the break-in period the cross hatching helps retain a certain amount of oil for lubrication. It really depends on the type of piston ring used, but this cross hatch pattern is typically generated using a 600 grit hone.
My thinking would tell me that if you wanted to generate a cross hatch pattern in the axle surface you would want to spin the axle as slow as possible and keep the sandpaper moving quickly across the surface. If you are polishing to 12,000 grit or higher I personally don't think a cross hatch pattern would make a difference, but I've been wrong before.
My thinking would tell me that if you wanted to generate a cross hatch pattern in the axle surface you would want to spin the axle as slow as possible and keep the sandpaper moving quickly across the surface. If you are polishing to 12,000 grit or higher I personally don't think a cross hatch pattern would make a difference, but I've been wrong before.
ZZ Racing said:
Me too, except only DD4H #1, followed up with Brasso, then I mix something else with Brasso (3:1) for final polish.
By the way, I got a set of axles from ~JBD RACING~, and they are the best yet of anything I have used before. What ever process he uses is really very good.
I personally don't think flex in the frame, or solid bodies matters.. It has to do with the way the block it drilled, car is weighted, wheels and axles prep. As well as tuning. I have several full bodies as well ladder. Both seem about the same. Although one ways less. So far I have had better luck out of full body cars. But this month I'm sending in a few of both designs. I have built 4 new ladder style cars since and before nationals. As well 3 full body cars ... Only time will tell. Builders are winning with both style. So it's a tough argument. But I will say this I have 2 new cars I built that has 4 more pieces of tungunten each them my other cars... Weight is power!!
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