How did the bent axle car run compared to the canted axle car? I suspect canted is faster.RSR said:
axle spray
- Thread starter MBRacing
- Start date
It was my first time drilling a cant axle on a press. No silver bullet here. If I make the leap to adult proxy racing I will buy one. I used the Stan Pope online calculator and ended up using a #44 bit to shim in hopes of ending up with a 2.88* rear cant. I wont have a chance to compare the cars on our 32' aluminum track until next Friday night. I have a old 10' wood start hill section in my basement that I use in addition to an alignment board and it looks like the cant drilled car is faster so far.
I know how you drilled the cant - I have done it that way myself. I still bet on the canted car over the bent axle version.
Good luck to both cars in the race...
Good luck to both cars in the race...
I tried my hand at the chain saver on a set of polished stock axles and then I used Krytox dry lube and found the dry lube to work much better. I ran them on the cars the boys ran for this years derby. Wheels were prepped with #1 & Red Rocket using graphite, with out the timer being hooked up it was .5 to 1 car length depending on the lane. Since I couldn't get my hands on Jigg-a-loo I tried this out.
http://www.grainger.com/product/1YDZ9?gclid=CjwKEAiArdG1BRCLvs_q-IObwxMSJACXbLtzEM_l4GzcVUn5fnIL3ckRxlCsSbbkH3a1ReEkcmSGsBoChhTw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Lubrication-_-Lubricants-_-1YDZ9&AL!2966!3!50916767637!!!g!137381436322!&ef_id=VVpRFQAABardnQJz:20160205163353:s
http://www.grainger.com/product/1YDZ9?gclid=CjwKEAiArdG1BRCLvs_q-IObwxMSJACXbLtzEM_l4GzcVUn5fnIL3ckRxlCsSbbkH3a1ReEkcmSGsBoChhTw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Lubrication-_-Lubricants-_-1YDZ9&AL!2966!3!50916767637!!!g!137381436322!&ef_id=VVpRFQAABardnQJz:20160205163353:s
NoobRacing- what did you run for the actual races? You have mixed processes in your testing, but might have found something anyway. Normally with Graphite- axle is just sprayed with Pledge.
The oil process is looking for jig-a-loo or some other silicone replacement with the chainsaver Krytox a distant choice. The DRY Krytox might work real well with oil, and interesting you see good speed with graphite. What was your experience with pledge?
The oil process is looking for jig-a-loo or some other silicone replacement with the chainsaver Krytox a distant choice. The DRY Krytox might work real well with oil, and interesting you see good speed with graphite. What was your experience with pledge?
V
Vitamin K
Guest
txchemist said:
That dry-spray Krytox is expensive!
I have heard, btw, that folks have had good results using Sailkote (another dry-film Krytox spray) in conjunction with graphite.
- Nov 24, 2011
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None of this stuff is as fast as Jig but Pony Express says Max Pro silicone is really close. If I were any of you I would pony up for some of it. Pun intended.
I do not think anyone would say if there were a prep product, spray, or wax that gave a racer an edge, which is why I believe everyone, including myself, still search for that combination / product that works. Method is a 1/3 of the formula, craftsmanship is a 1/3, and prep products used is the last 1/3 of the speed formula.
- Nov 24, 2011
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And 2/3rds of that is what separates the winners from the losers. It's up to each individual to figure out which 2/3rds.
V
Vitamin K
Guest
Kinser Racing said:
Jig and Max Pro seem to be the best for oil (as far as I know), though some of the previous discussion involves axle sprays for graphite.
Sorry Vitamin K & Txchemist, long few days at work.
Ok so to answer your questions, my rules call for no oil. And yeah this stuff is very expensive, but where I work we use this to maintain our fiber optic fusion machines, you spray it and in a few seconds it dries leaving a light haze which we wipe off but it leaves a layer of dry krytox on the surface that lasts for months.
To be honest I hadn't come across the pledge idea until after our derby, so I will be prepping a set of axles using that and see how that works. We have to do some maintenance to our pack track, I will play around with it then and pass along how it worked for me.
For lube I used XLR8 graphite. I have used this stuff for years and I really hadn't paid a lot of attention to all the different kinds that are out there. I picked this one solely based on the needle tip applicator. It really makes it easy to apply lube after the wheels are on with out spilling it all over the place. When I get my order of DD4H graphite, what's in my bottle now will get replaced with his blend. As for krytox oil, I think (and hope to test) the dry spray with the oil may workout really well, seeing as it would be krytox on all surfaces.
Ok so to answer your questions, my rules call for no oil. And yeah this stuff is very expensive, but where I work we use this to maintain our fiber optic fusion machines, you spray it and in a few seconds it dries leaving a light haze which we wipe off but it leaves a layer of dry krytox on the surface that lasts for months.
To be honest I hadn't come across the pledge idea until after our derby, so I will be prepping a set of axles using that and see how that works. We have to do some maintenance to our pack track, I will play around with it then and pass along how it worked for me.
For lube I used XLR8 graphite. I have used this stuff for years and I really hadn't paid a lot of attention to all the different kinds that are out there. I picked this one solely based on the needle tip applicator. It really makes it easy to apply lube after the wheels are on with out spilling it all over the place. When I get my order of DD4H graphite, what's in my bottle now will get replaced with his blend. As for krytox oil, I think (and hope to test) the dry spray with the oil may workout really well, seeing as it would be krytox on all surfaces.
- Nov 24, 2011
- 3,903
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