Black ice wheel bore prep
- Thread starter Jayhard
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Here’s a related thread on the same question.
http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/...urnish-when-using-red-rocket.5972/#post-74663
http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/...urnish-when-using-red-rocket.5972/#post-74663
so the link above Hurricrane states to mix red rocket with graphite and done. And DD4H says good idea to pledge with graphite. So what's the better process?? Polish with the red rocket mix and done. Polish, cure, then plege? Or do you polish with red rocket mix, cure, then pedge?
OK so I’m confused. After you Polish the wheels with red rocket and let cure, do you or do you not burnish the wheel bores wheel pledge and graphite? I’m getting both responses that you do and you don’t..
Pledge is applied as the last step on the axles, while Red Rocket is the final step for the wheels. To burnish the axles, Hurricrane adds graphite when Red Rocket is applied to the wheels on a graphite running car.
DO NOT use Pledge or Sailkote in yore bores! They are axle treatments only! Also, do NOT place a freshly treated axle in the bore. It will ruin the bore. Wait 10-15 mins after treating the axles, then wipe down with a clean cloth. At that point, you can continue with assembly.
Yes, after Red Rocket cures (best for 24-48 hrs or longer), then burnish graphite into the bores before assembly.
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We need to know exactly how you been building your cars.....shape of car, rail riding, weight used, wheel/axles used, prep methods yada yada
My guess is that there are many other factors than just the prep you’re talking about.
PM me and I can send you all the specs on our final car that took 1st at Northernstar Council a few yrs back.
It includes weight on each wheel, steer amount, axle placement and weight placement.
We used oil but these other factors may be helpful if you haven’t gotten those dialed in yet.
PM me and I can send you all the specs on our final car that took 1st at Northernstar Council a few yrs back.
It includes weight on each wheel, steer amount, axle placement and weight placement.
We used oil but these other factors may be helpful if you haven’t gotten those dialed in yet.
So our rules say we have to use original slots for axles so I cut 1/4" off back and put up front. Thin body with fenders. Rail run with 4" steer on 3 wheels. 3.5 oz.. canopy weight with 3/4" cog. Dd4h .91 BSA axles pledged. Dd4h black ice wheel bore prep.
OK. Rethinking here and not knowing how good your rear alignment is, wheel to body gap in the rear and how much bend you have in your front axle I'm going to say keep your DFW weight around .70 oz with a steer of 4"-5".
.65 oz on the DFW is fine and can be done. But, I would like to have a couple test runs at that weight to make sure it came back to rail quickly at the seams and the rear didn't wobble.
.65 oz on the DFW is fine and can be done. But, I would like to have a couple test runs at that weight to make sure it came back to rail quickly at the seams and the rear didn't wobble.
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